Get your fuel tank down to as little a fuel as possible. Then get it up on axle stands and use a jach to hold the tank partially up in place as you unhook the tank straps. Lower it down enough to unhook the fuel lines and there is an electrical plug at the rear of the tank you can unplug before you even start to lower the tank. Once you get it down you will see the fuel pump location and just remove the assembly from tank and swap your new pump on and place the unit back in the tank. Then just reverse the procedure.

 

cool, doesnt sound too hard. Thanks

 

300tq stock, so if he's making 305 on the dyno, the flywheel # is probably 345+ tq.

Look at the twisted wedge heads also. You should have to flycut pistons or anything to fit them even though they have the 2.02 intake valves.

Unless you are using ARP bolts, or better yet, studs, I wouldn't recommend re-using your head bolts. It would be a wise investment to just get ARP studs and be done w/ it.

RawGt, If you haven't bought the fuel pump yet, check out jdsperformance.com. They've got Walbro pumps cheap.

 

I second the head studs, they are expensive but well worth it... While you at it you could always have the block and head o-ringed. That is truely the best way to seal.

 

with my new heads, will i have to worry about my pushrods if i go with a 1.7 rocker. The pushrods are brand new, but there stock. Are they going to be strong enough?
gsp funk, afr 185's would i have to worry about piston to valve clearance

 

cam isn't all that wild, I'd go with the 165's or edelbrock performers, with the 1.90 valves. It'll keep your power fatter down low and will still flow tons over stock. If you're thinking about 1.7's, clearance everything first. Don't leave it to chance, or you'll be whining about bent valves, pushrods, damaged pistons, whatever.

 

Thanks horatio. What size fuel pump should i go with. I have new 24# injectors 75mm maf, Track heat intake. And ill be getting new aluminum heads.

 

w/ the 185's, I think you have to have flycut or notched pistons.... on the TW heads, the valves are rotated so that you have more clearance. the 165's should clear though.

I'm rebuilding my 306 w/ the E cam and 1.72's; my lift should be around .535. I went w/ the Crane valve spring kit from summit to make sure the springs would hold up.

e cam=.498 lift both int/exh
1.72's=.535
1.7's =.529

 

I would try those RHS heads or Edelbrocks ( Not being Bias) the AFR's have weak springs in them as well the TF heads are only good to .540 how big do you want to go in the RPM Dept and lift on cam? With 1.7's that E cam would be pushing the TF's and the AFR's springs are crap.

 

look at those tfs heads=2.02 valves.