hey I 'd help from the lazy boy that is!!!!!!!!lol lol

 

Yeah, me too. See how fast it gets done.

 

So did swapping over to coil overs help alot in the turns? One big thing that I want to out manuver is a buddies SRT4 because hes always saying, "You may get me in a straight line but I have you in the turns." Lol he is dumb a$$ anyway, I am about to rebuild his motor for him that only has 55K miles. I could go on and on about this dude on how idiotic he is but I am making money off of him so its all good[8D].
I do plan on getting a panhard bar, sub connectors, stut tower brace, springs struts/shocks, control arms and upgraded sway bars. I think that will give me the upper hand on him as it is. And of course good tires.

 

I'd run a sway bar.... I left mine on and it rides good....but my set up is a little different than Pro50sc's I have 90/10's up front and 14-175 springs and I have a pan hard bar in the rear and that helped alot with body sway in the rear

 

After hearing how much yours helped in a different thread I have looked more and more into getting one. I just don't want to have to mess with my tail pipes again. I had to do some fabbing to get them to line up because they have been on like 4 different cars. I do need to get your stuts because my passenger side is now riding lower than the driver by about an inch since I have been driving it around.

I have been looking into spring, strut/shock combos and I don't have the cash for a damn good one but what about this one with KYB struts and shocks. It comes with steeda springs but they don't lower as much as I would like. I want about 1 1/2 in drop all the way around. I was mainly wondering on the struts andshocks.

 

the kyb's will work as for the pan hard bar out back it makes tail pipe clearance tight too..basically you install the pan hard bar then make the tail pipes work...I liked my mac set up cause it's two piece = removable tail pipe tips= made fab up easier

 

I need to get new ones eventually anyway. The ones I have are 2 1/4 stainless that I got from a buddy that went from my car to my wifes 98 to mine again. Right now I just have the driver side on and the passenger is just opened after the muffler. I still need to redo the bracket at the rear for the tail and connect the 2. I am just worried about my brake line bc it doesn't have a whole lot of slack because I had to cut a small section out of the line do to rust and it runs very close to the pipe. After I get the new hanger up I hope it will clear it more. I am gonna start that tomorrow. Does the panhard just bolt up or do you need to drill some holes? I still need to upgrade to a 8.8 rear so will I have to do it twice if I was to install one on my 7.5??

 

the dimentions shouldn't change the location for the panhard bar when you switch rears.. but I'd do the rear first...as for the panhard bar...there are spacers and plates that attach to the frame and 4 holes have to be drilled all the way through and first you put the pan hard bar in place and use two sheet metal screws to hold it in place then you drill the 4 holes just through 1 side no to the other.. then you remove the pan hard bar and install the plate spacer through the single side hole and the spacer will hit the other side' inside of the frame and you use a drill bit the size of the inside spacer and while holding the space plate in place you drill through the other side...this way the holes line up exactly... the instructions that come with it are quite detailed

 

Sounds like fun. Can't wait to go and buy one.........in abut 10 years when I can afford it lol. Maybe I will make my own like I try to do with everything else.[8D]Can you get me some close pics of the setup?

 

this is the best I HAVE RIGHT NOW

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...6/DSC00033.jpg