Dyno
Before my TFS-1 cam and light tune, I made 244rwhp/287rwtq. But this was through an AODE, stock fuel pump and 19lb injectors. Your numbers do sound a bit low though. With the cam and stall converter, I made 271rwhp and 311rwtq in 100 degree weather. But then again, you are running the GT-40 combo, while I ran TFS heads/box stock GT-40 intake. BTW, I did not notice a power increase by adding an aftermarket MSD Blaster coil.
Well a dude was at the shop today that seemed to know a lot about Mustangs and highly recommened changing the coil and ignition module. As stated, my number would of been higher, but the car running so rich kind of killed me, and worse is I didn't think about adjusting the damn fuel pressure until I was off the rollers and about to leave.
Oh, also, keep in mind, this was done on a dyno dynamics dyno which is one of the lowest reading dynos on the market, a mustang dyno would of been a little lower (as I believe it's the lowest), and pretty much any other would or read 5-15% more hp.
ALright, well that clears it up. I should have asked what dyno you ran on. Mine was on a dynojet. As for the coil, it's just my personal experience that it didn't work. I know the stock ignition is pretty good. Heck, my ignition is stock(even have stock plug wires, but do have the MSD coil). But then again, I am just a guy who's only worked on one Mustang. If the other guy knows his stuff, then I'd listen to him. But then again, there was a tech at my local Mustang shop who said that I could not tune my car under any circumstance with an FMU and had thought my Tweecer was junk(Don't think he knew what it was).
Yes it is. As for your cam, I too wanted to keep my stock cam in(made installing the H/I quicker and was worried about drive-ability, esp with the 94-95's). I liked the instant low-end torque with the stock cam. But I had to upgrade my stock cam to work with the larger stall I put in. I was really impressed with how much power I picked up by just adding a cam. But I understand if you do not want to install one. They are a PITA to install.
Well it's not that I didn't "want" too, I wanted and would still like to do a Steeda #19, but I be damned if I'm going to tear the engine down now for just a cam, I'm looking at getting another S/C to boost me well over the 300 rwhp mark
11.0 afr?...have you pulled the plugs out yet? i'm curious.
you could put msd ignition on it,and it will help,not until you get that fuel under control.yu will not get a controlled/clean burn until then
is 15* timing all the dyno guy said your motor was good for?
you could put msd ignition on it,and it will help,not until you get that fuel under control.yu will not get a controlled/clean burn until then
is 15* timing all the dyno guy said your motor was good for?
That's what it was set at. I mentioned timing to the dyno opperato, so he got his gun out, and came up with 15 degrees, I didn't do any adjustments as I wasn't 100% sure as to how without the write up readily availible from the forums. He had the gun, but never done timing on a stang, so he wasn't 100% either, so we left it at 15.
Havn't pulled the plugs since I installed them last month after the build. They're gaped at around .54 give or take a small degree of inaccuracy.
As adder said, I thought the numbers were a little low, but given the bad a/f and the dyno itself, it's not suprising, if I were to hit up a dynojet, I'm sure low 260s high 250s would of been showing, maybe even higher than that with as high as they read.
Havn't pulled the plugs since I installed them last month after the build. They're gaped at around .54 give or take a small degree of inaccuracy.
As adder said, I thought the numbers were a little low, but given the bad a/f and the dyno itself, it's not suprising, if I were to hit up a dynojet, I'm sure low 260s high 250s would of been showing, maybe even higher than that with as high as they read.


