Hey guys, I'm helping my brother put a 331 in his 94 gt. We picked up the short block from a moderator on corral.net...here's what's included with it:

331 Stroker
Stock Block (Zero Decked, Bored .030 w/ tq plate, line honed)
4340 Eagle Crank
4340 H-Beam Rods w/ ARP Rod Bolts
Probe SRS Forged Flat Top Pistons w/ coated skirts (inline or twisted wedge heads)
ARP Main Studs and Rod Bolts
Clevite H-Series Bearings
Custom Ground Cam from Elgin Cams
Standard Volume Oil Pump
Melling Double Roller Timing Set

The cam specs: 24x/237 .571/555 @.050" on a 110LSA

Intake: Trickflow Track Heat Intake. It has a 75mm opening. So we need a new t/b I assume (dont know the stock size) and a MAF. I've seen CIA on ebay with MAF's but don't know what size to go with for the 75mm?

Now we're looking for something that's going to be a DD with the occasional track use. My question is what heads would be ideal with this use in mind? I've got a deal on AFR 185's lined up or would Trickflow 165's be better? Will AFR's work with stock accessory brackets?

Next question is about the exhaust...we're thinking about running BBK equal length shorties because IMO shorties are a bit more practical for DD use. I have LT's on my lt1 now (go ahead and give me crap ) and it can be a PITA sometimes with noise and ground clearance. However if we're going to be leaving a lot of power on the table we will go with LT's and a catted h-pipe. What's the general consensus on this?

As far as fuel goes...we picked up 30lb injectors and will be replacing the stock pump with a walbro 255lph pump...what else is needed?

and last but not least...what about engine management? I know the stock ECU is a PITA once you start throwing mods at it. I found a place locally that can tune it for $500, but the guy we bought the short block from recommended using a fox A9L ECU. What do you all think about this?

Thanks in advance for advice/input. I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to mustangs but I do know one thing...it takes less than 45min to swap plugs/wires on them (first time) whereas it takes much longer to do so on my lt1 fbody! I'm really looking forward to this project and learning a lot...just hopefully not the hard way.

 

I would go 1 3/4 lt's at least if it were mine and 3 in exhaust, as for heads, afr 185's , canfield 195's or tfs fast as cast heads..you'll need to know what springs the cam calls for as well as the needed seat pressure

 

I'm leaning towards the AFR 185's...but with the cam, intake and whatnot I'm afraid the car won't be very streetable. As far as the springs go...wouldn't a dual spring good for .600 lift be fine? And how would I go about finding the seat pressure needed (noob question...I know...but hey that's what I am haha). Random but where in WV are you from?

 

might want to call up the maker of the cam and talk to them... I made the mistake of just throwing on a set of springs........... after getting valve float above 5200 i decided to rip the whole engine out cause i was sick of it

 

^ true. Never build an engine around a cam, build the engine then select cam accordingly. Unfortunately since you already have it, you probably don't want to buy a new one. But in the least, call the fabricator and find out all the details. Find out installed height, lift, spring rate, and ask what spring and roller rocker's they recommend. Afr 185's or TF Fast As Cast would be your best choice IMO, so if you plan on taking this route find out whether your pistons will match or not, or if they need to be notched. You'll need an adjustible push rod length checker to see what size you'll need. As for a MAF, just shop around for something *electronically calibrated for your 30lb injectors. For a throttle body, ya, a 75mm should be sufficient. Also IMO, it'd be a good idea to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Give you a li'l leeway as to a/f ratio. Yes, shorty headers are convenient but if you're looking for best performance, as previously stated, 1 3/4 lt's would be your best choice. Ummm other things...... hmm.... should get a new thermostat.. and you could probably save some money by just buying an engine gasket set after you've gotten everything figured out. Although a tune/chip would be ideal it wouldn't really be necessary as I can't see a reason for the stock ecu not handling the load. ...pretty much all I can think of for the time being. Good luck and keep us in the know! Cheers