My expensive build thread...
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,459
From: Pittsburgh
My expensive build thread...
This is the rear end I bought that was supposedly capable of being just bolted right in. It's sitting next to the stock rear with 3.08's. Right after a nice couple coats of paint.
I installed all of the new Cobra R brake parts on the rear end alon with some StopTech braided stainless steel flex lines and a MAC rear end girdle. At this point I was just going to keep the rubber upper bushings.
I sprayed in rear wheel wells with rubberized undercoating.
Here is when I was putting it in, attached to the car with the old KYB shocks, new Maximum Motorsports Extreme Duty Adjustable LCA's, reinforced new Ford Racing UCA's, and generic lowering springs.
I also installed a Maximum Motorsports firewall adjuster and an MM clutch quadrant.
I'll post up some more pics tommorrow.
I installed all of the new Cobra R brake parts on the rear end alon with some StopTech braided stainless steel flex lines and a MAC rear end girdle. At this point I was just going to keep the rubber upper bushings.
I sprayed in rear wheel wells with rubberized undercoating.
Here is when I was putting it in, attached to the car with the old KYB shocks, new Maximum Motorsports Extreme Duty Adjustable LCA's, reinforced new Ford Racing UCA's, and generic lowering springs.
I also installed a Maximum Motorsports firewall adjuster and an MM clutch quadrant.
I'll post up some more pics tommorrow.
Last edited by Tony71502; Jul 22, 2009 at 09:57 PM.
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,459
From: Pittsburgh
The new Cobra booster next to the stock fox booster, huge difference.
After painting the booster, cutting about 3/8" off of each stud, and cutting a nice 3"x7" notch out of the driver's side strut tower it finally goes in.
When the MC and lines are all hooked up.
I also pulled out the new tremec t-5 and replaced the speedometer drive gear and driven gear for 3.71:1 rear end gear calibration.
New stainless steel hardlines were installed everywhere except the front to back hardline. The new proportioning valve was disabled and an adjustable proportioning valve was installed near the passenger side hood hinge. Rather than have it floating there I threw together a little bracket for it, made from 1/8" steel.
I really need to clean that dirt off the engine bay.... in time.
After painting the booster, cutting about 3/8" off of each stud, and cutting a nice 3"x7" notch out of the driver's side strut tower it finally goes in.
When the MC and lines are all hooked up.
I also pulled out the new tremec t-5 and replaced the speedometer drive gear and driven gear for 3.71:1 rear end gear calibration.
New stainless steel hardlines were installed everywhere except the front to back hardline. The new proportioning valve was disabled and an adjustable proportioning valve was installed near the passenger side hood hinge. Rather than have it floating there I threw together a little bracket for it, made from 1/8" steel.
I really need to clean that dirt off the engine bay.... in time.
Last edited by Tony71502; Aug 6, 2009 at 08:25 PM.
in limbo
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,300
From: Iowa
holy schlitz! clean that biotch and hide dem wires!
nice work on the disk conversion. im gonna do mine probably late summer but keep the 4lug set up. so there is no way you can fit the bigger BB without cutting out the tower?
i made my BB sparkly
nice work on the disk conversion. im gonna do mine probably late summer but keep the 4lug set up. so there is no way you can fit the bigger BB without cutting out the tower?
i made my BB sparkly
Last edited by FivePointOhh; Jul 23, 2009 at 11:54 AM.