Fuel delivery problems... *desperate*
10-08-2009, 06:52 PM
#11
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Spfld, MA
Posts: 9,240
why is a compression test expensive? go to harbor freight and buy the kit
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95187
$26
run the test yourself. take all plugs out, jam throttle open, and go.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95187
$26
run the test yourself. take all plugs out, jam throttle open, and go.
10-08-2009, 07:27 PM
#12
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Outside US
Posts: 117
why is a compression test expensive? go to harbor freight and buy the kit
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95187
$26
run the test yourself. take all plugs out, jam throttle open, and go.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95187
$26
run the test yourself. take all plugs out, jam throttle open, and go.
Maybe I'll find a kit on the ebay, that's the only hope to get it cheap, but with 2 week shipping times
I'll report how the MAF and fuel pressure tests will go first.
10-08-2009, 07:37 PM
#13
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
31 psi with vacuum hose on? 
Then it might be that fuel pressure is correct. I was told it has to be way higher. I got 29 on vac connected, so I guess it could get as high as 39 at WOT. Service had an info it's supposed to be 60 psi at partial/full throttle, somewhere around 40 on idle.
Darn, no one here has a clue about how these cars operate
And no manuals...
Testing was very simple.
Step 1: EEC test -> 2 codes relate to lean condition and fuel pump problems
Step 2: We took the measurement of fuel pressure at fuel rail -> 29 psi
Step 3: Call to people who work with American cars, they say around 60 psi is the average pressure.
Step 4: Fuel pump test/Voltage drop tests
Step 5: Fuel pressure regulator test
Step 6: Useless conclusions because of "step 3"
If the 31 psi with vacuum is target, then 29 psi is kinda close and all the conclusions we made today are wrong. But I can't say we didn't tried to do best we could based on information we could find.
Darn, I need to get a copy of the factory manual. No one here knows anything about these cars
Not even a Ford dealership...
If the fuel assumptions about 60 psi operating pressure were wrong, then yes, MAF is the next thing that is suspect. I'll try to swap MAFs with donor tomorrow. But if it doesn't help then I'll be operating in a dark again I will try to do a stationery fuel pressure tests with vac hose closed to see if it reaches 39 psi too, but other than that... Next thing is the compression test on all 8 cylinders which is expensive... and out of ideas...
I could so use the manual
P.S.: mjr46, I'm sorry that I reacted the way I was, but I was working on contradicting information, you have given me a very valuable advice and I'm very grateful.
Then it might be that fuel pressure is correct. I was told it has to be way higher. I got 29 on vac connected, so I guess it could get as high as 39 at WOT. Service had an info it's supposed to be 60 psi at partial/full throttle, somewhere around 40 on idle.Darn, no one here has a clue about how these cars operate
And no manuals...Testing was very simple.
Step 1: EEC test -> 2 codes relate to lean condition and fuel pump problems
Step 2: We took the measurement of fuel pressure at fuel rail -> 29 psi
Step 3: Call to people who work with American cars, they say around 60 psi is the average pressure.
Step 4: Fuel pump test/Voltage drop tests
Step 5: Fuel pressure regulator test
Step 6: Useless conclusions because of "step 3"
If the 31 psi with vacuum is target, then 29 psi is kinda close and all the conclusions we made today are wrong. But I can't say we didn't tried to do best we could based on information we could find.
Darn, I need to get a copy of the factory manual. No one here knows anything about these cars
Not even a Ford dealership...If the fuel assumptions about 60 psi operating pressure were wrong, then yes, MAF is the next thing that is suspect. I'll try to swap MAFs with donor tomorrow. But if it doesn't help then I'll be operating in a dark again
I will try to do a stationery fuel pressure tests with vac hose closed to see if it reaches 39 psi too, but other than that... Next thing is the compression test on all 8 cylinders which is expensive... and out of ideas...I could so use the manual
P.S.: mjr46, I'm sorry that I reacted the way I was, but I was working on contradicting information, you have given me a very valuable advice and I'm very grateful.
10-09-2009, 08:59 PM
#14
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Outside US
Posts: 117
It was the MAF, I swapped it with one from a donor car and car came alive. Now I can hang with old model M5s, no more trucking 
The only problem I have now is that the car stutters at low loads/RPMs. Say if I put it in 1st, and release the gas, it'll slow down to max and then it'll start twitching. And if I step on a gas it'll hesitate a little before it starts to pull.
I think this was a symptom of something, but I can't remember what exactly.
I will try to do a KOEO/KOER tests tomorrow and reset the codes, maybe something will come up. But if someone have any ideas that would be great.
The only problem I have now is that the car stutters at low loads/RPMs. Say if I put it in 1st, and release the gas, it'll slow down to max and then it'll start twitching. And if I step on a gas it'll hesitate a little before it starts to pull.
I think this was a symptom of something, but I can't remember what exactly.
I will try to do a KOEO/KOER tests tomorrow and reset the codes, maybe something will come up. But if someone have any ideas that would be great.
10-09-2009, 09:22 PM
#16
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Outside US
Posts: 117
10-09-2009, 10:04 PM
#17
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
yeah but owning a gauge goes along way and in 5 min by running the tests I suggested I would of known all was well with FP, AS FAR AS THE HESITATION, i'D RESET THE ECM then drive it and rerun koer test and look for any tps codes or simple back probe the signal wire on the tps and with a dvom look for any opens while slowly rolling the throttle open, also has the car had plugs, cap, rotor and wires recently??
10-10-2009, 06:03 AM
#19
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Outside US
Posts: 117
I know how to get/clear KOEO/KOER codes via blinking CEL. I've done OBD2 data-logging via OBD2 and MUTIII. But I don't have the cable and software to data-log this car. The only OBD1 cable I have is with different type of connector.
The cable that matches Ford connector is OpenPort 1.3U, but it's an OBD2 USB cable, not OBD1. So it seems I can't data-log this car as it has different protocol and plug wiring than OpenPort 1.3U requires.
If you know which cable and software I need to data-log Mustang I will consider that option, of course, if it's not overly expensive.
10-10-2009, 06:14 AM
#20
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lil' Rhody
Posts: 22,376
What do you mean by "run"? Read DTCs or to do a data-log?
I know how to get/clear KOEO/KOER codes via blinking CEL. I've done OBD2 data-logging via OBD2 and MUTIII. But I don't have the cable and software to data-log this car. The only OBD1 cable I have is with different type of connector.
The cable that matches Ford connector is OpenPort 1.3U, but it's an OBD2 USB cable, not OBD1. So it seems I can't data-log this car as it has different protocol and plug wiring than OpenPort 1.3U requires.
If you know which cable and software I need to data-log Mustang I will consider that option, of course, if it's not overly expensive.
I know how to get/clear KOEO/KOER codes via blinking CEL. I've done OBD2 data-logging via OBD2 and MUTIII. But I don't have the cable and software to data-log this car. The only OBD1 cable I have is with different type of connector.
The cable that matches Ford connector is OpenPort 1.3U, but it's an OBD2 USB cable, not OBD1. So it seems I can't data-log this car as it has different protocol and plug wiring than OpenPort 1.3U requires.
If you know which cable and software I need to data-log Mustang I will consider that option, of course, if it's not overly expensive.
didnt I tell you NOT to give me a whole god damn story?
the only "datalogging" you should do, is with a pad, and pen