oil question
01-07-2010, 11:00 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: ca
Posts: 11
oil question
what oil do you guys recomend for an 87 50.
i ussually run sythetic in my cars. but i was told recently that these older cars are ment to run on conventional oil. so does that mean that i shouldnt use amsoil, royal purple or something like that?
what are you guys using and how do you like it?
tried using search didnt find anything useful.
i ussually run sythetic in my cars. but i was told recently that these older cars are ment to run on conventional oil. so does that mean that i shouldnt use amsoil, royal purple or something like that?
what are you guys using and how do you like it?
tried using search didnt find anything useful.
01-07-2010, 11:47 PM
#3
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
Run synthetic. The whole thing boils down to "back in the day" sealing technology wasn't that great and synthetic could leak...but that was back in the 60's and 70's. And there's some people who are still just hard headed and don't believe that synthetic is better(which it is, by FAR).
FWIW I run synthetic, Torco SR-1 10w-40 in mine. Torco, Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1, they're all good oils.
One thing I could be careful of though, is try and avoid the newer SM rated "Energy Conserving" oils. They have lower anti-friction additives to meet newer EPA standards, and it can be a problem for engines that were even manufactured as recently as 2004. Thrust bearings, wrist pins, valve stem tips, valve guides, flat tappet cams ESPECIALLY...they can have issues since it operates entirely on boundary lubrication. Even newer Hondas have issues with some oils with their valvetrain.
FWIW I run synthetic, Torco SR-1 10w-40 in mine. Torco, Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1, they're all good oils.
One thing I could be careful of though, is try and avoid the newer SM rated "Energy Conserving" oils. They have lower anti-friction additives to meet newer EPA standards, and it can be a problem for engines that were even manufactured as recently as 2004. Thrust bearings, wrist pins, valve stem tips, valve guides, flat tappet cams ESPECIALLY...they can have issues since it operates entirely on boundary lubrication. Even newer Hondas have issues with some oils with their valvetrain.
01-08-2010, 12:45 AM
#4
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
Well do you want to spend $50 or $20 on an oil change with the same affect? Your motor can run for hundreds of thousands of miles with conventional oil. Synthetics might help in some areas but it has already ran for years without it so its not really gonna help you much now.
01-08-2010, 01:22 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: ca
Posts: 11
well i already bought a motorcraft oil filter. i dont mind paying the extra dollar on oil if there is a benifit. and if there is even a minor gain that i can gain then i want it. lol.
this seems like a very contriversial topic aswell. not picking sides but 18,161 post > 7419 post lol. AdderMk2 seems to disagree.
cuz yes i dont mind spending extra dollar for a benifit. but if im waisting money then ill just get the regular stuff.
what do you guys recomend for good t-5 fluid?
this seems like a very contriversial topic aswell. not picking sides but 18,161 post > 7419 post lol. AdderMk2 seems to disagree.
cuz yes i dont mind spending extra dollar for a benifit. but if im waisting money then ill just get the regular stuff.
what do you guys recomend for good t-5 fluid?
01-08-2010, 02:39 AM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
Oil isn't opinion or experience, it provides protection for an engine, some are better than others. A lot of it depends on how you drive and what you want out of the engine. If you drive hard and want the engine to last as long as possible then a good synthetic is a better choice than a good mineral. That's not to say mineral oil doesn't protect, because it does, but a synthetic is a better oil than a similar quality mineral. A lot of it is also in the additive package as well. When I started running Torco in my 302 I had to reset the idle on the carb since it freed up enough friction to bump the idle speed up by about 300rpm, and it also picked up about 2-3mpg on the highway. If you don't drive hard and want to save money than a good mineral oil is fine. But if you look at the big race teams and what they run, nearly all of them run a good synthetic like Torco, Amsoil, Redline etc. In the end it comes down to what you want out of it and what you're willing to pay, if synthetic doesn't seem worth it to you then don't use it.
Just remember that you're going to be better off with a good mineral oil than you will be with a crappy synthetic. Additive packages play a bigger role than synthetic vs mineral.
Just remember that you're going to be better off with a good mineral oil than you will be with a crappy synthetic. Additive packages play a bigger role than synthetic vs mineral.
01-08-2010, 06:57 AM
#8
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lil' Rhody
Posts: 22,376
Oil isn't opinion or experience, it provides protection for an engine, some are better than others. A lot of it depends on how you drive and what you want out of the engine. If you drive hard and want the engine to last as long as possible then a good synthetic is a better choice than a good mineral. That's not to say mineral oil doesn't protect, because it does, but a synthetic is a better oil than a similar quality mineral. A lot of it is also in the additive package as well. When I started running Torco in my 302 I had to reset the idle on the carb since it freed up enough friction to bump the idle speed up by about 300rpm, and it also picked up about 2-3mpg on the highway. If you don't drive hard and want to save money than a good mineral oil is fine. But if you look at the big race teams and what they run, nearly all of them run a good synthetic like Torco, Amsoil, Redline etc. In the end it comes down to what you want out of it and what you're willing to pay, if synthetic doesn't seem worth it to you then don't use it.
Just remember that you're going to be better off with a good mineral oil than you will be with a crappy synthetic. Additive packages play a bigger role than synthetic vs mineral.
Just remember that you're going to be better off with a good mineral oil than you will be with a crappy synthetic. Additive packages play a bigger role than synthetic vs mineral.
At this stage in the game, he is better off just keeping a regular oil in the motor. Now if he is to rebuild it at some point later on down the road. believe me, im all for the conventional break in and synthetic lifespan.
my 347 stroker runs synthetic oil. while my original 139k-160k (miles i had the stock shortblock) was done with regular conventional.
why??? because I knew it was going to get rebuilt/replaced eventually... might as well not throw away the money for no added benefit
