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Almost to the Heater Core...now this..??

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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 07:57 PM
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Default Almost to the Heater Core...now this..??

Suffering thru this ridiculous job of changing the Heater Core, and run into this: I have no freakin idea if my AC system is charged, and I have to undo the 'Dryer' or AC thing (whatever the heck the little black canister with the other 2 hoses is next to the Heater Core hoses). I assume that it is not. Do I need special tools (like some spring compressor I read about) to loosen it, and is it gonna blow up in my face if it's partially charged?? Next time this stupid freakin Heater Core goes out I'll A) Deal with no heat, or B) Pay the freakin $700 to get it done.
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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if it's partially charged , yes it'll blow everywhere........there are charge ports that have a shreador valve in them , like a valve stem does......can't tell you what to do from there, you make the call...lol...............anyway the black canister is the reciever dryer, and once open to atmosphere air, the desecant bag goes bad very quick, rendering it useless = will need to purchase a new one if a/c is ever recharged/used again
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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Ok...hmmm...this blows lol! I can't/won't stop here cuz it's torn almost all the way down, but I really am regretting this. Anyway I can test to see if it's charged at all? Is the desecant bag expensive/hard to change if I ever get it recharged? I honestly probably won't ever recharge it though... And is there a special tool to take the line off from the reciever dryer to the firewall, or is there another way to do it? I see on big nut that I'll have to loosen, then a compression fitting or somethin.
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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I may just buck-up and try to pull the Heater Core box back just far enough to somehow undo the [4?] bolts on top. I can access the easy 2 obviously, but I know the 2 hidden ones will be a pain lol!
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:15 PM
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yes you can test to see if it's charged, grab a small pocket screwdriver and , you know how to let the air out of a tire??? , just push it quickly, and see if it sprays a little out, it'll be under pressure so you'll know........... you replace the reciever dryer as a unit, the desecant bag/filter is inside it
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:15 PM
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to release lines, special quick disconnect tools are needed
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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Ok...I'll give this another run. I really appreciate your help, thanks!
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mjr46
to release lines, special quick disconnect tools are needed
my ford fuel line disconnects worked on mine, had to get creative with them to get it off though.
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:29 PM
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you DO NOT have to dis connect any ac lines or anything to change your heater core! just unbolt that black canister thing from the fire wall (bolts go into the heater core box) and you will be able to pull the heater box out just enough to pry it open and wiggle the heater core out. it is a tough box so you will need to pry it and i used a deep socket to keep it open.

read this walk through. its a diff one than what ur using but from the same site

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/5652/index.html
Old Mar 17, 2010 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by nacanitihs
you DO NOT have to dis connect any ac lines or anything to change your heater core! just unbolt that black canister thing from the fire wall (bolts go into the heater core box) and you will be able to pull the heater box out just enough to pry it open and wiggle the heater core out. it is a tough box so you will need to pry it and i used a deep socket to keep it open.

read this walk through. its a diff one than what ur using but from the same site

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/5652/index.html
I changed my sisters boyfriends heater core in his 87 in 3.5 hours using this method.

I found it easier to have someone else pull the core out while you are holding the box open. You will only need them for 2 minutes to pull the box out.

I didn't have to do anything with the AC.

Pulling the seats makes it alot easier FYI



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