Need help getting to 350rwhp!
04-12-2010, 12:28 PM
#41
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
A vert in road racing is actually going to require extra safety measures under most sanctioning bodies. You'll need a more robust cage as well as arm restraints. Also, seriously consider investing in a good helmet and a HANS device too. It would suck to end up paralyzed from an on track incident.
As far as the build, like Adder said, cam last. Figure out what you want, and where you want the power. For a new driver in a road race setup, you want your power in like the 2,500-6,000rpm range, really broad torque, not a lot of top end power. You'd be surprised how quickly you move up and down the rpm range. Gears will depend on the tracks you go on as well, faster tracks and you may want to keep 3.27 gears, more street oriented tracks that are lower speed with a lot of shifting and you may want 3.55 or 3.73. Once you have your bottom end, heads and everything else figured out, order up a custom cam.
As far as the build, like Adder said, cam last. Figure out what you want, and where you want the power. For a new driver in a road race setup, you want your power in like the 2,500-6,000rpm range, really broad torque, not a lot of top end power. You'd be surprised how quickly you move up and down the rpm range. Gears will depend on the tracks you go on as well, faster tracks and you may want to keep 3.27 gears, more street oriented tracks that are lower speed with a lot of shifting and you may want 3.55 or 3.73. Once you have your bottom end, heads and everything else figured out, order up a custom cam.
04-12-2010, 01:08 PM
#42
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 82
@67mustang302 like i said in this post, i dont plan on racing the car but because of the type of roads i will be driving on, i feel that this would be the best choice on suspension. i could be wrong and i am open to any advice on the subject but i am not putting a cage in this car. i absolutly hate the look of a cage on a vert. i have a styling bar on the car now and i like that too much to get rid of it.
Last edited by brendanryan0510; 04-12-2010 at 01:13 PM.
04-12-2010, 02:09 PM
#43
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
Subframes, good suspension and driving lessons. And I really am serious about the lessons. If you go someplace that teaches you performance driving, you'd be amazed at how much untapped potential most cars have if you know how to use them.
As far as your build, you need to figure out exactly what you want to do. Drag race? Weekend deal, daily driver. Where do you want your power. Mine is a DD and I prefer really broad power, with a lot of low-mid end torque with decent top end. I like being able to drive around corners and through windy roads and have all the power I need at 2,500-3,000rpm. I find it easier and more fun to drive something set up like that.
Also, invest in good tires, for whatever setup it is. In the end, EVERYTHING in a car in terms of performance comes down to controlling forces at those 4 small spots where the rubber meets the road.
As far as your build, you need to figure out exactly what you want to do. Drag race? Weekend deal, daily driver. Where do you want your power. Mine is a DD and I prefer really broad power, with a lot of low-mid end torque with decent top end. I like being able to drive around corners and through windy roads and have all the power I need at 2,500-3,000rpm. I find it easier and more fun to drive something set up like that.
Also, invest in good tires, for whatever setup it is. In the end, EVERYTHING in a car in terms of performance comes down to controlling forces at those 4 small spots where the rubber meets the road.
04-12-2010, 02:26 PM
#44
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 82
Subframes, good suspension and driving lessons. And I really am serious about the lessons. If you go someplace that teaches you performance driving, you'd be amazed at how much untapped potential most cars have if you know how to use them.
As far as your build, you need to figure out exactly what you want to do. Drag race? Weekend deal, daily driver. Where do you want your power. Mine is a DD and I prefer really broad power, with a lot of low-mid end torque with decent top end. I like being able to drive around corners and through windy roads and have all the power I need at 2,500-3,000rpm. I find it easier and more fun to drive something set up like that.
Also, invest in good tires, for whatever setup it is. In the end, EVERYTHING in a car in terms of performance comes down to controlling forces at those 4 small spots where the rubber meets the road.
As far as your build, you need to figure out exactly what you want to do. Drag race? Weekend deal, daily driver. Where do you want your power. Mine is a DD and I prefer really broad power, with a lot of low-mid end torque with decent top end. I like being able to drive around corners and through windy roads and have all the power I need at 2,500-3,000rpm. I find it easier and more fun to drive something set up like that.
Also, invest in good tires, for whatever setup it is. In the end, EVERYTHING in a car in terms of performance comes down to controlling forces at those 4 small spots where the rubber meets the road.
i plan on driving the car daily in the summer and putting it away as soon as the trucks start putting down roadsalt and ill probobly pull it back out around march or april every year. we have a lot of windy or semi-windy roads around here so ill need a suspension for that. i do not plan on driving this car on a track of anysort. this car is going to be driven strictly on the street. im not really sure on where i would want the power. i have been thinking lately about a kennebell or a procharger maybe if i saved the money for to go with the new engine but its a big if.
for suspension i plan on full length subframes, maximum motorsports sport box suspension, and stock rims for now with bf goodrich Radial T/A p225/60r15 front and bf goodrich Radial T/A p245/60r15 rear.
04-12-2010, 02:42 PM
#45
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 2,459
Just because your not on a track doesn't mean your car will not be subject to the same stresses when going through turns. Subframes will surely help, but there may still be considerable body flex due to the weakness of the convertible body. Hardtops aren't even that strong, but they are stronger. You will be fine, though, we like to embelish a little bit.
If your doing subframes... consider the Max Moto chassis brace package. You get a k-member brace and strut tower brace, in addition to the sub frames. All at a discounted price. Investigate the grip box you want to make sure those parts are not in it, IDK if they are or not. The chassis brace package made me alot happier on the highway and in turns.
**edit, when using longtubes you can not use the 4 point k-member brace...you can resell it. However you can use the two point brace with longtubes if you have a tubular K. I think.**
If your doing subframes... consider the Max Moto chassis brace package. You get a k-member brace and strut tower brace, in addition to the sub frames. All at a discounted price. Investigate the grip box you want to make sure those parts are not in it, IDK if they are or not. The chassis brace package made me alot happier on the highway and in turns.
**edit, when using longtubes you can not use the 4 point k-member brace...you can resell it. However you can use the two point brace with longtubes if you have a tubular K. I think.**
Last edited by Tony71502; 04-12-2010 at 02:45 PM.
04-12-2010, 03:28 PM
#46
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 82
Just because your not on a track doesn't mean your car will not be subject to the same stresses when going through turns. Subframes will surely help, but there may still be considerable body flex due to the weakness of the convertible body. Hardtops aren't even that strong, but they are stronger. You will be fine, though, we like to embelish a little bit.
If your doing subframes... consider the Max Moto chassis brace package. You get a k-member brace and strut tower brace, in addition to the sub frames. All at a discounted price. Investigate the grip box you want to make sure those parts are not in it, IDK if they are or not. The chassis brace package made me alot happier on the highway and in turns.
**edit, when using longtubes you can not use the 4 point k-member brace...you can resell it. However you can use the two point brace with longtubes if you have a tubular K. I think.**
If your doing subframes... consider the Max Moto chassis brace package. You get a k-member brace and strut tower brace, in addition to the sub frames. All at a discounted price. Investigate the grip box you want to make sure those parts are not in it, IDK if they are or not. The chassis brace package made me alot happier on the highway and in turns.
**edit, when using longtubes you can not use the 4 point k-member brace...you can resell it. However you can use the two point brace with longtubes if you have a tubular K. I think.**
04-12-2010, 11:09 PM
#47
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: al
Posts: 17
As a rep for a performance parts company that services 5 states,I will have to suggest to you to find the RIGHT engine builder to the machine work,NOT the cheapest,but most knowledgeable and willing to assess your interest. Listen to the builder, as they have many times more experience with the outcome of the build. You will find that spending an extra $200-$300 may find you waaaay happier than what your buddies suggest. The motorsport cams are extremely lazy(lobe ramp profiles are very soft on valve action),but they sound good and work well with factory computers with only mild upgrades needed around them. A camshaft from a reputable company(i.e.- Erson,Lunati,Bullet,Comp,Steeda) are gonna be faster "off the seat",more area under the curve, and produce better power with the same numbers @ .050 than the Motorsport cams.
A good builder will have dyno info and a quick suggestion<that is proven,not a guess> to put you close, within your budget,and within the parameters of the equipment that you have or need. KEEP IT SIMPLE...better than factory heads(Dart,PBM,World,Brodix,RHS) and a decent cam selection can get you close. HOWEVER there is no replacement for displacement. Save for a budget stroker kit and worry about making TORQUE more than HP....you will be happier with better driveability and response.
A good builder will have dyno info and a quick suggestion<that is proven,not a guess> to put you close, within your budget,and within the parameters of the equipment that you have or need. KEEP IT SIMPLE...better than factory heads(Dart,PBM,World,Brodix,RHS) and a decent cam selection can get you close. HOWEVER there is no replacement for displacement. Save for a budget stroker kit and worry about making TORQUE more than HP....you will be happier with better driveability and response.
04-13-2010, 01:22 PM
#48
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 82
As a rep for a performance parts company that services 5 states,I will have to suggest to you to find the RIGHT engine builder to the machine work,NOT the cheapest,but most knowledgeable and willing to assess your interest. Listen to the builder, as they have many times more experience with the outcome of the build. You will find that spending an extra $200-$300 may find you waaaay happier than what your buddies suggest. The motorsport cams are extremely lazy(lobe ramp profiles are very soft on valve action),but they sound good and work well with factory computers with only mild upgrades needed around them. A camshaft from a reputable company(i.e.- Erson,Lunati,Bullet,Comp,Steeda) are gonna be faster "off the seat",more area under the curve, and produce better power with the same numbers @ .050 than the Motorsport cams.
A good builder will have dyno info and a quick suggestion<that is proven,not a guess> to put you close, within your budget,and within the parameters of the equipment that you have or need. KEEP IT SIMPLE...better than factory heads(Dart,PBM,World,Brodix,RHS) and a decent cam selection can get you close. HOWEVER there is no replacement for displacement. Save for a budget stroker kit and worry about making TORQUE more than HP....you will be happier with better driveability and response.
A good builder will have dyno info and a quick suggestion<that is proven,not a guess> to put you close, within your budget,and within the parameters of the equipment that you have or need. KEEP IT SIMPLE...better than factory heads(Dart,PBM,World,Brodix,RHS) and a decent cam selection can get you close. HOWEVER there is no replacement for displacement. Save for a budget stroker kit and worry about making TORQUE more than HP....you will be happier with better driveability and response.
04-13-2010, 10:43 PM
#50
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Massachusetts, New Bedford
Posts: 3,035
if you are not looking for big power now and not planning on racing why spend all that money on 31-spline axles and a new trac-loc? just run the stock 28-spline and have the trac-loc rebuilt. it will save you a lot of money. just get the trac-loc rebuilt when getting the gears installed. the 28-splines will hold up just fine!
honestly all you really need is gears, some suspension work, sub frames, short shifter, exhaust and some timing adjustments and you will be more than happy for now.
thats what i did when i bought my car then 2 years later i built the motor up some.
oh and btw those of you who say nitrous is inexpensive its really not. i got my kit used from adder and have since bought several accessories that i needed (bottle gauge, blow down tube, automatic bottle heater, fittings) prob about $600 deep. plus its $50 a fill up.
honestly all you really need is gears, some suspension work, sub frames, short shifter, exhaust and some timing adjustments and you will be more than happy for now.
thats what i did when i bought my car then 2 years later i built the motor up some.
oh and btw those of you who say nitrous is inexpensive its really not. i got my kit used from adder and have since bought several accessories that i needed (bottle gauge, blow down tube, automatic bottle heater, fittings) prob about $600 deep. plus its $50 a fill up.