subframe connectors question
#1
subframe connectors question
Im sure someone has installed subframe connectors, and was wondering how hard is it? This will be done on a 93 lx hatchback. I want to do the job myself but just wanted a idea of what i should be ready for. What kind of welder is needed, tig im assuming? Any info would help me. Thanks.
#4
Don't buy bolt in subframes, they are the half-*** way to do it.
A lincoln electric MIG welder with argon sheilding gas will do just fine. But practice and practice and have someone that knows what they are looking at tell you if your welds are good, before you put them on the car. Subframes are useless if the welds crack.
#5
ok, yeah Im getting the weld in subframes. So will any full length sub frame do, or is the more expensive ones worth the money. Latemodelrestoration sells a pair, with .080 wall thickness for 59.99. Im sure anything would be better than stock, but will these hold up under street and strip driving? Thanks again.
#7
+1 with Tony. I am an Engineer so I know a know a little about structure. I looked at a lot of brands of sub-frame connectors and the M/M were the best design in my opinion. Some of the cheaper parts are absurdly designed, they look like a first year drafting student designed them, someone who knows nothing about structure & load paths.
The M/M cost more but are worth the money. Buy the unpainted ones & paint yourself if you want to save a couple bucks, but just don't buy the cheapies, you will regret it in the future. Once they are welded in, you are stuck with them.
Please do not buy the bolt-in style, the bolt holes will just elongate and make the car weaker than it was before the addition of the frames.
I have a welder, but no lift. So I had a shop weld them in for me. Shops charge from $125-175 for installation, at least in my area. I picked the more expensive guy because he removed the seats & carpeting to prevent scorching (and a fire!).
The M/M cost more but are worth the money. Buy the unpainted ones & paint yourself if you want to save a couple bucks, but just don't buy the cheapies, you will regret it in the future. Once they are welded in, you are stuck with them.
Please do not buy the bolt-in style, the bolt holes will just elongate and make the car weaker than it was before the addition of the frames.
I have a welder, but no lift. So I had a shop weld them in for me. Shops charge from $125-175 for installation, at least in my area. I picked the more expensive guy because he removed the seats & carpeting to prevent scorching (and a fire!).
#8
+1 with Tony. I am an Engineer so I know a know a little about structure. I looked at a lot of brands of sub-frame connectors and the M/M were the best design in my opinion. Some of the cheaper parts are absurdly designed, they look like a first year drafting student designed them, someone who knows nothing about structure & load paths.
The M/M cost more but are worth the money. Buy the unpainted ones & paint yourself if you want to save a couple bucks, but just don't buy the cheapies, you will regret it in the future. Once they are welded in, you are stuck with them.
Please do not buy the bolt-in style, the bolt holes will just elongate and make the car weaker than it was before the addition of the frames.
I have a welder, but no lift. So I had a shop weld them in for me. Shops charge from $125-175 for installation, at least in my area. I picked the more expensive guy because he removed the seats & carpeting to prevent scorching (and a fire!).
The M/M cost more but are worth the money. Buy the unpainted ones & paint yourself if you want to save a couple bucks, but just don't buy the cheapies, you will regret it in the future. Once they are welded in, you are stuck with them.
Please do not buy the bolt-in style, the bolt holes will just elongate and make the car weaker than it was before the addition of the frames.
I have a welder, but no lift. So I had a shop weld them in for me. Shops charge from $125-175 for installation, at least in my area. I picked the more expensive guy because he removed the seats & carpeting to prevent scorching (and a fire!).
#9
<~~~~~~~~~ Not an engineer... but have been racing Mustangs for 20 years.
UPR carries these SFCs which would be cheaper than the LMR ones with the mf.com discount: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-m...onnectors.html
and these full length subframe connectors which are right up there with the higher end designs, but at a reasonable price. Again, 10% mf.com discount applies here: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-f...onnectors.html
UPR carries these SFCs which would be cheaper than the LMR ones with the mf.com discount: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-m...onnectors.html
and these full length subframe connectors which are right up there with the higher end designs, but at a reasonable price. Again, 10% mf.com discount applies here: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-f...onnectors.html
#10
thanks alot guys, glad i asked. I hate to do jobs over again because it wasnt done right the first time, ( its the reason i started working on cars my self in the first place). Thanks for the feed back.