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subframe connectors question

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Old 07-22-2012, 11:35 PM
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Justin Burgess
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Default subframe connectors question

Im sure someone has installed subframe connectors, and was wondering how hard is it? This will be done on a 93 lx hatchback. I want to do the job myself but just wanted a idea of what i should be ready for. What kind of welder is needed, tig im assuming? Any info would help me. Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:50 AM
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89fiveeight
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BBK and Summit offer subframe connectors for foxes that don't require welding. If you are going to weld them, a stick or wire feed machine will do the job.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:03 AM
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Explosive
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I did it in my driveway with my mig. They say to have the suspension loaded so I put cinder blocks under the tires but it was still a cramped pita. A 4 post lift would make it a breeze
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:46 AM
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Tony71502
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Originally Posted by Explosive
I did it in my driveway with my mig. They say to have the suspension loaded so I put cinder blocks under the tires but it was still a cramped pita. A 4 post lift would make it a breeze
This is what I did. MIG welder, cinder blocks.

Don't buy bolt in subframes, they are the half-*** way to do it.

A lincoln electric MIG welder with argon sheilding gas will do just fine. But practice and practice and have someone that knows what they are looking at tell you if your welds are good, before you put them on the car. Subframes are useless if the welds crack.
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:43 PM
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Justin Burgess
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ok, yeah Im getting the weld in subframes. So will any full length sub frame do, or is the more expensive ones worth the money. Latemodelrestoration sells a pair, with .080 wall thickness for 59.99. Im sure anything would be better than stock, but will these hold up under street and strip driving? Thanks again.
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:45 AM
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Tony71502
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I'd go with Max Motorsports, they have the best I've seen unless you want to go with through the floor subs, which I doubt you do. Steeda subframes are like toothpicks in comparison.
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:47 AM
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+1 with Tony. I am an Engineer so I know a know a little about structure. I looked at a lot of brands of sub-frame connectors and the M/M were the best design in my opinion. Some of the cheaper parts are absurdly designed, they look like a first year drafting student designed them, someone who knows nothing about structure & load paths.

The M/M cost more but are worth the money. Buy the unpainted ones & paint yourself if you want to save a couple bucks, but just don't buy the cheapies, you will regret it in the future. Once they are welded in, you are stuck with them.

Please do not buy the bolt-in style, the bolt holes will just elongate and make the car weaker than it was before the addition of the frames.

I have a welder, but no lift. So I had a shop weld them in for me. Shops charge from $125-175 for installation, at least in my area. I picked the more expensive guy because he removed the seats & carpeting to prevent scorching (and a fire!).
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Mustanger
+1 with Tony. I am an Engineer so I know a know a little about structure. I looked at a lot of brands of sub-frame connectors and the M/M were the best design in my opinion. Some of the cheaper parts are absurdly designed, they look like a first year drafting student designed them, someone who knows nothing about structure & load paths.

The M/M cost more but are worth the money. Buy the unpainted ones & paint yourself if you want to save a couple bucks, but just don't buy the cheapies, you will regret it in the future. Once they are welded in, you are stuck with them.

Please do not buy the bolt-in style, the bolt holes will just elongate and make the car weaker than it was before the addition of the frames.

I have a welder, but no lift. So I had a shop weld them in for me. Shops charge from $125-175 for installation, at least in my area. I picked the more expensive guy because he removed the seats & carpeting to prevent scorching (and a fire!).
<---Structural Engineer
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:22 PM
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<~~~~~~~~~ Not an engineer... but have been racing Mustangs for 20 years.

UPR carries these SFCs which would be cheaper than the LMR ones with the mf.com discount: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-m...onnectors.html

and these full length subframe connectors which are right up there with the higher end designs, but at a reasonable price. Again, 10% mf.com discount applies here: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-f...onnectors.html
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:25 AM
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Justin Burgess
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thanks alot guys, glad i asked. I hate to do jobs over again because it wasnt done right the first time, ( its the reason i started working on cars my self in the first place). Thanks for the feed back.
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