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Take 2 of ssi install

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Old 02-02-2013, 12:39 AM
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Js88lx
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Default Take 2 of ssi install

well guys.., i ordered all new gaskets and also the p/s relocation bracket. I will do everything little by little this time., "no more rushing!". I also ordered new cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I will keep everyone posted.., O yeah i also took off my v/c to re-paint them the same color as the SSI! Heres some piks.., man i've never seen my motor this naked!!

I also wanted to share that i ordered the intake gaskets from A/M.com and the box said bbk on it. I opened the box and everything was there but the top plate cover gasket was not the same as the one i took off... size is there but i had to make 2 holes for the 2 middle screws... weird?



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Old 02-02-2013, 08:18 PM
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Progress!!





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Old 02-02-2013, 08:37 PM
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dawson1112
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Lol so what happened with it you had to take it all back apart again ? did you find a leak?
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:52 PM
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Well no leaks that i can see but it is good for a LOL!! I can do this in my freekin sleep now..lol! Last time i didnt put any rtv around the water ports so im guessing that was my leak.? Plus the fact that i used all the old gaskets the 1st time (in a hurry = set back!). I hope the idle issue i had is fixed after all this. I couldnt get it to idle good.... seemed that everytime it got to operating temp (when the thermo opens up im guessing) the idle would drop from 850 to 600 and smelled very rich..? Could it be my coolant temp sensor? Never stalled but damm near close!
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:33 PM
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dawson1112
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Yea good idea using new gaskets this time round. Its possible that the intake leaked and you were showing the o2 sensors a lot of air , so as soon as it went to closed loop the ecu tried to correct it by retarding the timing and flooding it with fuel.

Oh and Im not laughing at you as much as with you lol
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:57 PM
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Hopefully your right!
A good laugh never hurts anyone!
I think its funny as hell that i had to do this but what ever! Live and learn!
Ill finish tomorrow so ill keep you guys posted!
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:19 PM
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mjr46
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Originally Posted by dawson1112
Its possible that the intake leaked and you were showing the o2 sensors a lot of air , so as soon as it went to closed loop the ecu tried to correct it by retarding the timing and flooding it with fuel.l
Per GFUB eec iv prog document, such a strategy for an unmetered air leak of retarded timing + max adaptive fuel enrichment is not the eec iv's strategy. Corrective adaptive strategy of the eec iv is around +/- 12 to 13 % once it reaches max limit it'll set a code for lean condition and can enter the eec iv into a FEM mode. If no code was set, most likely max adaptive was reached, surging is a result of lean and or rich condition.
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:32 PM
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Quick question about restabing the Dizzy... i took it out without doing anything.
Didnt mark it at all., plus last time i did it, i did it wrong because i had my dizzy almost touching the upper radiator hose on the thermostat housing to the left ..., the correct placement should be 1 inch away to the right from the top rad hose but it had corrct timming so i left it alone.., now i wanna do it correctly! Tips and help appreciated!
I tried using this but wasnt sure if you find atdc with or without the dizzy out?

https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...stributor.html
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:39 PM
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remove the no 1 spark plug, rotate the motor over by hand with your finger plugging the spark plug hole, when you start to reach tdc on the compression stroke air will start to push past your finger, you will be close to 0 on the balancer at that point, once you hit 0 stop and drop dizzy with rotor pointed at no 1 position on the cap, sometimes I get it a tooth or two off but as I try and start the car I rotate the dizzy until it fires up and if I have to push the dizzy to far one way to get it to run, then I know to just restab it a tooth or two accordingly, once I have the position of the dizzy looking factory correct, I set the rest with a light to spec
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mjr46
remove the no 1 spark plug, rotate the motor over by hand with your finger plugging the spark plug hole, when you start to reach tdc on the compression stroke air will start to push past your finger, you will be close to 0 on the balancer at that point, once you hit 0 stop and drop dizzy with rotor pointed at no 1 position on the cap, sometimes I get it a tooth or two off but as I try and start the car I rotate the dizzy until it fires up and if I have to push the dizzy to far one way to get it to run, then I know to just restab it a tooth or two accordingly, once I have the position of the dizzy looking factory correct, I set the rest with a light to spec
Nice!! Thanks man!
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