P2629 O2 sensor code and question
02-17-2013, 09:26 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 220
P2629 O2 sensor code and question
Had this show up this evening. The description is Oxygen Sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit/Open Bank 2 Sensor 1
This is the passenger side front O2 right? Does this mean the sensor needs to be replaced? Right before the light came on the car stumbled during moderate acceleration.
I'm scared to drive to the dealer to get this looked at since that sensor directly controls A/F mixture. Don't want to blow my engine over something stupid. I also don't feel like dropping it off for 2 days over something stupid. Are all 4 sensors the same with the same connections? I thought about swapping a rear to the front and putting it in the back so I could make it. There's a TSB out for O2 sensors that cause this code. My car has LT headers on it but I'm not using the extensions on the front as advised.
This is the passenger side front O2 right? Does this mean the sensor needs to be replaced? Right before the light came on the car stumbled during moderate acceleration.
I'm scared to drive to the dealer to get this looked at since that sensor directly controls A/F mixture. Don't want to blow my engine over something stupid. I also don't feel like dropping it off for 2 days over something stupid. Are all 4 sensors the same with the same connections? I thought about swapping a rear to the front and putting it in the back so I could make it. There's a TSB out for O2 sensors that cause this code. My car has LT headers on it but I'm not using the extensions on the front as advised.
02-17-2013, 10:15 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 220
Yes I have a tune. Since the O2's in the front are different from the back looks like I'm just going to take it out and bring it to them. Seems stupid that I'd have to drop my car off forever over something that takes 5 minutes.
02-18-2013, 12:45 PM
#4
There's a good chance they won't do the work under warranty since you have long tubes, unless they installed them. Did you check out the online manual?
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=506&viewfil...scriptions.pdf
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=506&viewfil...scriptions.pdf
02-18-2013, 07:26 PM
#5
Bank 2 sensor 1 is the driver side HEGO sensor, you can drive the car you can't beat on it the factory trim tables when the check engine light is on run on retarded timing and rich fuel mixture. As for Warranty, no they're not going to with long tubes so either expect to pay at dealer of go to a private shop. Before you make trip to dealer you may want to call them and see if they will diag it with aftermarket parts, some may not get involved and you'd be wasting a trip.
02-18-2013, 08:21 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 220
Turned out to be a wasted trip. Service writer told me not to worry about the diagnostic unless a field service tech came out but ended up charging me along with not replacing it. Problem is that the person who did the headers apparently didn't use anti-seize so the old sensor is currently stuck. What should've been an easy 5 minute job is probably going to take forever and cause a lot of cursing. Got it soaking in PB Blaster overnight so we'll see how it goes in the morning.
02-18-2013, 09:08 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
Turned out to be a wasted trip. Service writer told me not to worry about the diagnostic unless a field service tech came out but ended up charging me along with not replacing it. Problem is that the person who did the headers apparently didn't use anti-seize so the old sensor is currently stuck. What should've been an easy 5 minute job is probably going to take forever and cause a lot of cursing. Got it soaking in PB Blaster overnight so we'll see how it goes in the morning.
02-19-2013, 10:50 AM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 220
Everything is back to good this morning. A flaming wrench, long cheater bar, and some brute strength is all it took to get it out. The idle rpms aren't acting goofy anymore and it seems like the car is running better. Maybe that's why it hasn't gotten 11's yet.
Learned several things too. LT headers pretty much void the warranty on anything except floor mats, make sure whoever installs the headers doesn't get stupid, and it's never a good idea to leave your drag racing helmet in the back seat.
Learned several things too. LT headers pretty much void the warranty on anything except floor mats, make sure whoever installs the headers doesn't get stupid, and it's never a good idea to leave your drag racing helmet in the back seat.
02-19-2013, 05:10 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
Everything is back to good this morning. A flaming wrench, long cheater bar, and some brute strength is all it took to get it out. The idle rpms aren't acting goofy anymore and it seems like the car is running better. Maybe that's why it hasn't gotten 11's yet.
Learned several things too. LT headers pretty much void the warranty on anything except floor mats, make sure whoever installs the headers doesn't get stupid, and it's never a good idea to leave your drag racing helmet in the back seat.
Learned several things too. LT headers pretty much void the warranty on anything except floor mats, make sure whoever installs the headers doesn't get stupid, and it's never a good idea to leave your drag racing helmet in the back seat.