danzcool

The 4.6 motor was/is definitely not fragile under boost, but it is pretty much a dog when N/A.

My car while still on the stock 4.6L factory long block, no upgraded internals, no upgraded heads.

breathegood

I'll try to actually answer the question you asked. If I had to start over:

I would do suspension first, followed closely by a 1pc driveshaft and short throw shifter.

Don't get me wrong, all the extra power is fun, but the suspension improved the driving experience so much that I would not have been so quick to jump on the "needs more power" bandwagon had I done that first.

CMcNam

A new throttle body is completely useless for this engine unless you are running forced induction or a completely rebuilt engine that has almost every other modification on it already, so don't bother.

If I had to start over, I'd buy everything that I have now the first time out and a Steeda CAI instead of a JLT one, just because. Also, I'd spend way more time actually racing then surfing forums.

Start with a handheld tuner from one of the big brands. A dyno tune is a waste of money unless you are running a seriously modified car.

P51C

What I am getting at is the 4.6's rotating assembly will spit the dummy under boost at about where a 5.0 sits with merely full exhaust and an aggressive tune. Put boost on a 5.0 and it's 600 minimum, pretty much on any kit you like, with very low risk. It would take a built 4.6 to survive that power level.

Now, if mega-power ain't your bag and, it isn't for everyone, no problem. A healthy tune and exhaust work will net some nice gains on a 4.6 and make it sound really cool in the process. That's where I'd go first with that application.

Don't forget the small dollar things that make the whole experience more enjoyable, regardless of platform: A better shifter, tighter bushings and/or control arm work out back, custom trim bits inside, what's your fancy?

danzcool

Did you even look at the video or read my post? That is the stock 4.6L block and rotating assembly of what you are calling a weak block putting down over 800RWHP at 25-30PSI boost without spitting out it's guts. RPMs were kept at 6000 or under for this, but replace the rotating assembly and you can spin it to 7000 and make over 1000RWHP. The early coyotes weren't capable of more than about 700 before the block itself cracked due to a design flaw, Ford has since added material in the weak areas to compensate. Picture is attached, top image is the old coyote design, lower is the improved design, notice where they added material to the castings?


My point is simply that the 4.6L block was not crap and actually loved boost, but the 3-valve was pretty much a dog when not boosted especially compared to the progress Ford has made with TiVCT and higher compression.

CPTCO

Meanwhile...I guess if you're asking what mods to do with forced induction, I'd say gears. That's a great upgrade.

But like I said, if I was doing it over again, I would've saved my pennies and done the supercharger right away.

P51C

The mod BLOCK is great, better than the factory 11-14 Coyote but, Average Joe has 10,000 reports of the stock 4.6 rotating assemblies letting go at 450-ish. Yes, it's all in the tune and no FI is easier on the rotating assembly than turbos but....

You've achieved something great there but, you admit yourself in the video it's "how much power til boom?" because you know you're pushing it. You've even have a built motor waiting. Why you'd pour that kind of money and time at assembling something and just roll the dice on a stock longblock is beyond me.

How's that bad boy perform at the strip? That's what I'd like to see rather than a few 30 second dyno runs.

danzcool

Yeah, the rods in the stock 4.6 roating assembly are the weak point and are the first thing to let loose, bending and poking a window through the side of the block. I had already ordered the built long block becuase I knew that people were giving their engines teh block window mod, I had already told the tuner to swap the motor after getting the tune ironed out, he wanted to try pushing it to the limits, I had no plans for the original stock block and it wasn't really worth a lot at the time, maybe $700 on the top end, so I said go for it.

Here's a full on pull with the built block (upgraded rotating assembly and valve train)...

I'd have to say the pinnacle of the 4.6L was the 2003-2004 4v cobras and Mach 1's. The 3-valve was the bastard child/orphan that was "good enough" at the time.

P51C

Fawk, that thing must be making massive power to push a brick like a Mustang to nearly 200, it's even got an antenna and untaped seams....

On the stocker, I'd be worried about throwing frag through those expensive turbos if it let go. Had my share of turbo cars on kill over the years. the last one i monitored the centre section temp more than the rpm or speed bc I knew I'd melt the little pinner if it hit much over 850 degrees for a protracted period.

danzcool

It was probably putting down about 900 on that run.
It also uses water cooled turbos (Comp Turbos). But yeah, those mile runs are brutal on the engines & drivetrain.