[8D]I recently purchased an "06" convertible...gently used "Ford executive car".
I has a standard stereo CD head unit, but it also has the Shaker subs in the doors,
and the amps are in place above the drivers kick panel.
I'd like to install a new in-dash unit to drive the subs since the "standard" unit won't.
Are all Shaker systems as bad as everyone says, or is it a "good unit" "bad unit" thing?
As I understand, if I don't install a Shaker stereo, due to signal, and ohms,
I'll have to scrap everything and start from scratch...
I'm just an average 70's rocker with bad hearing. Not hard to please.......
Any advice?[8D]

 

Why would you have to start from scratch? I installed an aftermarket head unit but kept the factory subs and speakers. I'll probably upgrade them later but that let's me spread out the cost.

 

[8D]From everything I've read, aftermarket units don't work with the factory subs and speakers.
Could be wrong...
What unit did you install? How do the factory sub amps get their signal?

Thanks![8D]

 

my wife had a 06 mustang it was also a convertible with the shaker system it sounded great. i would tell the dealer it's screwewd up and tell them to fix it. i'm sure there is a warranty. is it the original head unit?

 

I put in a Eclipse AVN5435 navigation unit. The subs work just fine plugged into the non fader pre-amp outputs. I did add some in-line 70hz low pass crossovers which makes sure only the low range goes to the subs, and I put in 5v voltage regulator on the amp-on signal wire, because people on here said they would make a loud pop sound on startup with a 12v signal.

The only problem I still have is the dimmer wire is apparently gone in 2006 so the unit doesn't go into the "night mode" map display when you turn on the headlights. I think I may try just tapping into the license plate light and run it to the dimmer wire to make it switch modes.

 

I'm in the process of installing a new hu, and had a question about the 5v voltage regulator which was picked up at Radio Shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2062599&cp

You tapped this into the amp on wire that’s on the sub rca connection that’s seen to the right of the wireharness below, correct?


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-3jE2mCN...5521&s=0&cc=01

I'm in the process of having one of these sent since it was missing in original shipment. Which wire is it, just for future reference?

Thanks

 

Check out this thread on the regulator. This should help explain how to wire it. But to answer your question more precisely, the wiring harness (small square one) with the RCA plugs is the amp harness. This will feed your built in FORD amps. If you have the 500 it has only 2 amps. Each RCA supplies its own amp as well as each of the small wires will supply amp turn on to each amp. Of course you will combine the two going to the harness to the 1 coming out of the HU. Use the attached link to show you how to wire the regulator. I am in the same boat as you. I am awaiting my order for wiring harness and my new HU. It is gonna be FUN!

 

I'm asking there as well, pending followup.

Question Placed:

I'm in the process of installing a new hu, and had a question about the 5v voltage regulator which was picked up at Radio Shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2062599&cp


Steps to take.

Ground the middle pin, to chasis
Input pin, tap into the red wire on the stereo harness: Red wire which is controlled by ignition
Output pin, tap into the both blue wires which are on the connections to the right of the wireharness in pic below?


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-3jE2mCN...5521&s=0&cc=01

I'm in the process of having one of these sent since it was missing in original shipment.

Thanks

 

I don't think you want the input into regulator coming from red wire from HU. That is HOT upon ignition on. Yes it is switched, but you want that to become hot via the AMP ON blue wire coming from the HU. The reason is, you want that only to come on when the HU is turned on. If you have it hot, it is always hot when the ignition switch is on. If for some reason you want to turn the radio off, and the ignition is on, the amps would still be on if coming from the red wire. This might not seem that important, and maybe it isn't, but I would want it going hot when intended, using the blue AMP on wire.

 

Ok,

Well the harness that was sent with the radio that was said to be for the 06 model year doesn't have a solid amp on blue wire.

Saw this on another forum:

just a FYI for anyone that has to deal with one of these cars, a potential problem when installing an aftermarket deck. the subs in the doors both have amps in the drivers kickpanel. metra makes a harness to adapt to these, i believe it is a 70-5521. the 2nd plug in there goes to the factory sub/amps. don't know how common it is, the lincoln mark LT worked just fine plug and play. the mustang shaker 500, the subs would pop badly when you turn the car on, or the deck on. i put a 5.6k resistor inline with the remote turn on lead going into the factory harness, and the pop was eliminated. i guess it was just too much voltage kicking on the factory amps, and caused a bad pop.