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HMMM....

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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 01:24 AM
  #11  
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Default RE: HMMM....

I understand were ur coming from about JL being over priced. But its the best looking and sounding Sub Iv found that I can trust. Ohh and PReal from personal experiance what size sub would u get 10's or 12's for a Coupe. Im still very very new to this. Heck I just learned about 2 days ago that the design of a box "not size but some boards inside it" can determine the sound of the sub.

Umm amps confuse me so much, how is it a D6 1000.1 at 4ohms is only 250watts? and is that even enough to power one sub?
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 12:29 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: HMMM....

ORIGINAL: paperinacup


ORIGINAL: PReal

ORIGINAL: paperinacup

Model for model in both of their optimal box sizes and power rating a 10 will be more accurate. But of course the 12s in mine sound louder than 2 10s. Also I haven't come across any boxes for 12s that just slide in the Mustang trunk. Seen quite a few 10s though.

Ampwise I say spend a little more money on something better. No offense but Profile doesn't really scream quality. And trust me if you look you can find better amps for not much more.
Youare completely wrong. What science are you using to come up with the incorrect statement that the two sizes of subs will have different sound. My 12 for instance in more "accurate" then even a set of 8's I have. A speaker is merely a piston that moves air at a given frequency. If the box is built to spec there is a certain "backpressure" on the woofer. Following Newton's seond law the enclosure will create a force on the cone of the woofer pulling it back into the enclosure.For a 10 or 12 in the recommend enclosures (with the same backpressure) and operating conditions, there will be no difference in the accuracy of the two woofers. The force from the box of the 12 would couter act that of the woofer with the force required to bring the woofer back to refernce point. If a 10 was given the same conditions it would move with the force required to bring it back to reference.

Basically, all things being equal a 10,12,15,18 or any reasonable sized woofer will react in exactly the same way, creating the same frequency and the same accuracy. I assumed a rigid cone, but with high quality woofers that assumption would be correct, otherwise it would deflect greatly from the forces of the magnetic reaction causing the speaker to move outwards and the opposition force moving it back inwards.

If you are "coming across" boxes that means you are buying prefab, that is the cause of you lack of "accuracy" from a 12.

Now that your learned on that... subject 2.

Profile amps are very reliable, and contrary to many bargain basement brands put out thier rated power. Have you ever own a profile? Probilbly not, i own two along with my diamond audio, fultron and concept amps. They are stout for the price and if you do have a problem the warranty service is great. I received emial corrspondence from an American, and I beleive he was also the tech that repaired my amp. Overall, my impression of profile is stellar from a low budget standpoint, and you will find other knowledgalbe people with more then likely share the same opinion.

Please do as much homework and reading you can before you give people advise. You can cause them to make uneducated decisions. It seems as though you are somewhat knowledgeable, so please stick around and give advice where you do have expertise.

Just to let you know I wasn't meaning any offense to you personally. I've been installing for a few years and this is the theory I've always been taught. Sorry if I'm wrong. I have attempted pre-fab boxes and had much better fit and sound from a custom one. But most people I know just opt for pre-fab because they don't know the difference. I still think for a Mustang trunk 10s are perfect.

I haven't tried their amps but have installed multiple speakers and subs from them and have been far from impressed. If their amps are WAY better then there HAS to be another factory making them. Do they even make something that can handle alot of power?
No offense taken, I am here to educate. Now you know....

I recommend whatever your enclosure requires. If you lack air space, try a 10. I like 12's because they can reach the lower frequencies of a larger driver and there are lots of good options available.

Actually the design of the box is important as well. You want to stay away from perfectly square boxes. Baffles can also affect the sound.

If you purchased 2 dual 4 ohm subs, you would wire them in parrallel to come up with a 1 ohm final load. THe D6 1000.1 puts out 1000 watts rms at 1 ohm.
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 04:01 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: HMMM....

If you purchased 2 dual 4 ohm subs, you would wire them in parrallel to come up with a 1 ohm final load. THe D6 1000.1 puts out 1000 watts rms at 1 ohm.
Huh....
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 04:05 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: HMMM....

ORIGINAL: Trigg

If you purchased 2 dual 4 ohm subs, you would wire them in parrallel to come up with a 1 ohm final load. THe D6 1000.1 puts out 1000 watts rms at 1 ohm.
Huh....
Read the sticky, the part about bridging an amp.
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 04:54 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: HMMM....

ok iv found a 1000watt Profile, Here it is Im not sure but 1000 watts for $100 is way cheap, thats .10cents a watt. Is it really pushing what it says?
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 06:37 PM
  #16  
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Default RE: HMMM....

Thats peak watts, not what your looking for. Lookfor 1000WRMS x 1 @ 1ohm. With that amp, you would be running 240WRMS x 2 @ 2ohms, so it would be 240WRMS to each sub. Don't just look at the name of the amp, that usually shows peak wattage which means virtually nothing. Look at the specs of the amp, try to find either 1000WRMS x 1 @ 1ohm or 500WRMS x 2 @ 2ohm. The D61000.1 will work well... http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2696

And this is assuming I read through the thread correctly and you need an amp for 2 DVC 4ohm subs that can handle 500WRMS a piece...
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 07:12 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: HMMM....

If you want a tad cheaper than the Diamond Audio I still say eD nine.1
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 10:35 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: HMMM....

ORIGINAL: 96Firebird

Thats peak watts, not what your looking for. Lookfor 1000WRMS x 1 @ 1ohm. With that amp, you would be running 240WRMS x 2 @ 2ohms, so it would be 240WRMS to each sub. Don't just look at the name of the amp, that usually shows peak wattage which means virtually nothing. Look at the specs of the amp, try to find either 1000WRMS x 1 @ 1ohm or 500WRMS x 2 @ 2ohm. The D61000.1 will work well... http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2696

And this is assuming I read through the thread correctly and you need an amp for 2 DVC 4ohm subs that can handle 500WRMS a piece...
Ya thats right but there 400watts RMS apiece. I was actuallly lookin at that amp earlyer this morningvery nice amp.
Old Apr 10, 2007 | 10:40 PM
  #19  
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Default RE: HMMM....

If they are 400 watts each this might be a good amp for the subs.....

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/4353$140 for 750 watts rms.
Old Apr 11, 2007 | 12:08 AM
  #20  
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Default RE: HMMM....

is that a brand that I can trust?



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