noob time w/ mach 460
ok, so i'm getting ready to add some subwoofers to my mach 460 system. i'm a little on the noob side of car audio but i wanna do the entire install myself. right now i have the stock mach 460 system with a pioneer deh-p4900ib head unit that i wired in myself (i ditched the kenwood i had).and yes it does have subwoofer output control. oh and i installed bass blockers inline of all the tweeters.i was looking at getting 2 eD 13Kv.2 subwoofers powered by a NINe.2x amp. so that leads to several questions. will this combo allow me to manually adjust the bass at will? will i need a line output converter? should i already have one? i was looking at soundgate's and got really confused... and should the box for the subwoofers by vented or sealed?? i already figured that i'll need a 4awg install kit from eD. should i wire them in series or parallel? and what ohm setup should i am for? also, what else will i need?? thanks
sorry fer the delay.
No you will note need a line out converter, your deck already has rca outputs. You might be confusing a line out converter(LOC) with a line DRIVER which you may need. how does the factory bass sound? Is it weak and distorting easily? You will need to split the sub output to go to the factory amps as well as your new amp but that is just a simple y-converter.
As for boxes I always go sealed myself but that is just because I am a big fan of the kiss theory(keep it simple stupid). If you want to port it then have at it.
As for which way to wire it, I am not up to date an ED model#'s to tell you series or parallel. I am sure somebody will chime in with that info.
No you will note need a line out converter, your deck already has rca outputs. You might be confusing a line out converter(LOC) with a line DRIVER which you may need. how does the factory bass sound? Is it weak and distorting easily? You will need to split the sub output to go to the factory amps as well as your new amp but that is just a simple y-converter.
As for boxes I always go sealed myself but that is just because I am a big fan of the kiss theory(keep it simple stupid). If you want to port it then have at it.
As for which way to wire it, I am not up to date an ED model#'s to tell you series or parallel. I am sure somebody will chime in with that info.
cool thanx! yes the factory bass is a little weak and distorted. i already have a memphis line driver laying around. what's the deal between a sealed, ported or vented box?? also, what ohm am i aiming for or does it even matter? thanx for all your help man!
wow, ok I will try and break it down for you let me know if I am over your head.
The factory bass is weak because the ford/jbl amps use a hotter input then most aftermarket decks like to put out. The line DRIVER(NOT a line out converter!) is basically a small low level amp that will boost the rca voltage closer to 8v wherer the factory amps like it. This may also make a popping noise when powered up.
There are a couple of different styles of boxes, each with its good and bad points. A sealed box is the most basic box. The speaker will come with volume (normally measured in cubic feet)requirements in its literatureto where it will sound the best. A ported or vented box is actually the same and is more then just poking a hole in the box. A port will allow you to tune the box to get a higher output of frequencies, that you determine by port length, area, ect. While you can get better sound from a properly ported box, you also can get more distortion as the sub will be able to move a little more freely with the port. A ported box will also require more room(cubic feet) as the port is normally inside the box, and will add to the volume. The final box that I will cover is the bandpass box that uses both a sealed and a ported box. The back of the subs is normally sealed, and the front is normally ported and this will make a higher output in the frequencies determined again by the combination of sealed and ported enclosures. This box is the biggest of the three and is also very popular with a plexi window infront of it as well as the most expensive.
the ohm rating of the speaker/sub is VERY important and will dictate what amp will be best for that speaker. Here is another site that has some great articles covering all the basics, including subwoofer and speaker basics as well as car audio basics. Don't let it overload you since you are new to audio, and the forum over there while not being mustang specific has some great people, with great patients. There is alot to learn but with alot of small steps you will find yourself well up the ladder before you know it. Check those out and let me know what your questions are.
The factory bass is weak because the ford/jbl amps use a hotter input then most aftermarket decks like to put out. The line DRIVER(NOT a line out converter!) is basically a small low level amp that will boost the rca voltage closer to 8v wherer the factory amps like it. This may also make a popping noise when powered up.
There are a couple of different styles of boxes, each with its good and bad points. A sealed box is the most basic box. The speaker will come with volume (normally measured in cubic feet)requirements in its literatureto where it will sound the best. A ported or vented box is actually the same and is more then just poking a hole in the box. A port will allow you to tune the box to get a higher output of frequencies, that you determine by port length, area, ect. While you can get better sound from a properly ported box, you also can get more distortion as the sub will be able to move a little more freely with the port. A ported box will also require more room(cubic feet) as the port is normally inside the box, and will add to the volume. The final box that I will cover is the bandpass box that uses both a sealed and a ported box. The back of the subs is normally sealed, and the front is normally ported and this will make a higher output in the frequencies determined again by the combination of sealed and ported enclosures. This box is the biggest of the three and is also very popular with a plexi window infront of it as well as the most expensive.
the ohm rating of the speaker/sub is VERY important and will dictate what amp will be best for that speaker. Here is another site that has some great articles covering all the basics, including subwoofer and speaker basics as well as car audio basics. Don't let it overload you since you are new to audio, and the forum over there while not being mustang specific has some great people, with great patients. There is alot to learn but with alot of small steps you will find yourself well up the ladder before you know it. Check those out and let me know what your questions are.
thanks for all your help, however i dont see the link.... i guess in the morning then i will get on the phone with eD and have a chat with one of their reps so i know what to get.


