I've have a picture of it and I'm wondering is this what it should look like?
1. Alternator to +battery
2. engine block to -battery
3. chassis to engine engine block

I know I did mine different but it shouldn't make difference should it?



Last night the engine started making these weird noises and the voltage was dropping quicker than normal when I cut the car off. I have a factory alternator which I've been told that it has at least 105-110 amps. It was working ok at first then I started cutting down on some of the wire and thats when it got weird. When I cut the car off the radiator fan did go off as well it was still on. Popped the hood everything looked normal I didn't know what to expect so if I have any other problems I'll post it. Its just weird I thought this should be easy considered I'm not a mechanic! Oh and another thing! should the factory alternator be able to handle 1200wrms (not max or peak wattage) because thats the only reason I did the BIG3?

 

Did you finally get the double din in?

 

yeah I did I love it despite the fact that it takes too long loading songs from the usb and msn direct doesn't pick data where I live. I need a wired steering remote touching the screen drives me nuts while I'm driving...

 

Yeah man that is a big proble with the new avic series is that load time......Yeah and your right the msn only works well if you are in a big city. The msn is not worth the money IMO..... Check out : http://www.msndirect.com/coverage.aspx

 

the only think I can see about that pic that concerns me is the grounds. You have the body ground going from the battery to the body on the top post, and the other ground going to the side post to the engine. This means that part of the battery(internally between the two posts) is now an integral part of your charging system and could be causing some ground loops. Take it off of the side post and go to the chassis and see what happens. I try to ground them in the same place myself but anywhere will work.