1600w Powerbass Amp, questions?
08-01-2009, 08:59 AM
#1
1600w Powerbass Amp, questions?
I just bought a 1600w amplifier. I have 2 500w 12" subwoofers that i have installed running on a 300 watt Visonik. So it's pushing about 150w to each.
The new powerbass amp (asa-600.4x) is 4 channel and puts 400w x 2, 200 x 2, and i think another 200 x 2.
NEW QUESTION:
I have the amp bridged so both subs can get 400w to each. Why is only one of the speakers producing the power?
Specs R here:
The new powerbass amp (asa-600.4x) is 4 channel and puts 400w x 2, 200 x 2, and i think another 200 x 2.
NEW QUESTION:
I have the amp bridged so both subs can get 400w to each. Why is only one of the speakers producing the power?
Specs R here:
SPECIFICATIONS:
• 4 ohm Power : 100W x 4
• 2 ohm Power : 200W x 4
• 4 ohm Mono Power : 400W x 2
• Peak Power : 1600W
• Total Harmonic Distortion : <0.05%
• Frequency Response : 20Hz - 22,000Hz
• S/N Ratio : >94 dB/W/M
• Damping Factor : >150
• Input Sensitivity : 0.5 - 4.0 volts
• Crossover Slope : 12 dB
• High-Pass Crossover Freq : 40Hz - 250Hz
• Low-Pass Crossover Freq : 40Hz - 250Hz
• Variable Subwoofer EQ : 0/+18 dB
• Subwoofer EQ Frequency : 40Hz
• Dimensions : 14.9 " x 9.3 " x 1.9 "
• Dimensions : 379mm x 238mm x 48mm
• 4 ohm Power : 100W x 4
• 2 ohm Power : 200W x 4
• 4 ohm Mono Power : 400W x 2
• Peak Power : 1600W
• Total Harmonic Distortion : <0.05%
• Frequency Response : 20Hz - 22,000Hz
• S/N Ratio : >94 dB/W/M
• Damping Factor : >150
• Input Sensitivity : 0.5 - 4.0 volts
• Crossover Slope : 12 dB
• High-Pass Crossover Freq : 40Hz - 250Hz
• Low-Pass Crossover Freq : 40Hz - 250Hz
• Variable Subwoofer EQ : 0/+18 dB
• Subwoofer EQ Frequency : 40Hz
• Dimensions : 14.9 " x 9.3 " x 1.9 "
• Dimensions : 379mm x 238mm x 48mm
Last edited by MegaWatz; 08-05-2009 at 09:00 PM.
08-01-2009, 05:24 PM
#2
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 31
You wouldn't need anything to keep your battery from dying. A capacitor might be a good idea if you plan on bumpin without the car being on though. They run about 70 bucks at walmart for i think a 1600 watt one. And yeah, you should be able to hook up your front speakers as well.
08-01-2009, 05:36 PM
#3
You wouldn't need anything to keep your battery from dying. A capacitor might be a good idea if you plan on bumpin without the car being on though. They run about 70 bucks at walmart for i think a 1600 watt one. And yeah, you should be able to hook up your front speakers as well.
08-05-2009, 12:15 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Alabama
Posts: 282
for a better solution do the BIG3 always if necessary high output alternator it way better than some cap... caps don't do anything but put a strain on the alternator anyway its like adding another battery to the car
08-05-2009, 05:46 PM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 6,936
welcome to the forum.
first, caps are nothing more then audio-candy. They do very little for what they cost and will never EVER keep your system bumping with the key off. That is just not what they were made for....
If you put a link to the amp and its specs then we can answer if it will do what you want it to.
first, caps are nothing more then audio-candy. They do very little for what they cost and will never EVER keep your system bumping with the key off. That is just not what they were made for....
If you put a link to the amp and its specs then we can answer if it will do what you want it to.
08-05-2009, 07:19 PM
#8
welcome to the forum.
first, caps are nothing more then audio-candy. They do very little for what they cost and will never EVER keep your system bumping with the key off. That is just not what they were made for....
If you put a link to the amp and its specs then we can answer if it will do what you want it to.
first, caps are nothing more then audio-candy. They do very little for what they cost and will never EVER keep your system bumping with the key off. That is just not what they were made for....
If you put a link to the amp and its specs then we can answer if it will do what you want it to.
• 4 ohm Power : 100W x 4
• 2 ohm Power : 200W x 4
• 4 ohm Mono Power : 400W x 2
• Peak Power : 1600W
• Total Harmonic Distortion : <0.05%
• Frequency Response : 20Hz - 22,000Hz
• S/N Ratio : >94 dB/W/M
• Damping Factor : >150
• Input Sensitivity : 0.5 - 4.0 volts
• Crossover Slope : 12 dB
• High-Pass Crossover Freq : 40Hz - 250Hz
• Low-Pass Crossover Freq : 40Hz - 250Hz
• Variable Subwoofer EQ : 0/+18 dB
• Subwoofer EQ Frequency : 40Hz
• Dimensions : 14.9 " x 9.3 " x 1.9 "
• Dimensions : 379mm x 238mm x 48mm
Also, we hooked it up today, and have it bridged so that the 400w x 2 is sent to each 500w sub, and im only getting ONE sub to produce the 400w, the other one just sits there. anybody know the reason?
08-08-2009, 09:33 AM
#10
I think i know the reason. Im not using both RCA inputs so only one speaker is producing the sounds. When a switch an RCA over to the other input, they both work, but im afraid that something will happen or ill fry it. So i need to run another set of RCAs to the HU.
Thanks all.
Thanks all.