Question
I have been thinking of doing one of two things with my Shaker500:
1) Get a PAC C2R-FRD1 interface from crutchfield and then hooking up a aftermarket hu.
...cheaper
(or)
2) Rip out the whole entire system, and start from scratch. Has anyone even done this?
...way more expensive
However, is there anything in between those two to get better sound from this is factory system? I just read the system doesn't even come close to 500watts, more like sub 350 or so.
1) Get a PAC C2R-FRD1 interface from crutchfield and then hooking up a aftermarket hu.
...cheaper
(or)
2) Rip out the whole entire system, and start from scratch. Has anyone even done this?
...way more expensive
However, is there anything in between those two to get better sound from this is factory system? I just read the system doesn't even come close to 500watts, more like sub 350 or so.
LOL, go figure.
I am looking to spend around $500-$1000 (maybe more), and whatever it costs to get the system installed. I don't need GPS in the HU, just a "mini computer" (mp3, movie, storage (flash based), cd, bluetooth, and etc). Pretty much like the sync system :P
I am looking to spend around $500-$1000 (maybe more), and whatever it costs to get the system installed. I don't need GPS in the HU, just a "mini computer" (mp3, movie, storage (flash based), cd, bluetooth, and etc). Pretty much like the sync system :P
Last edited by Smooth_J; Feb 9, 2010 at 10:03 PM.
awsome this should get you started its a wholesale website www.OnlineCarStereo.Com, the sell everything you need, do you know the difference between a class a amp/ class d amp with a mono block? and depending on the watts pulled on the amp u will need a upgraded alternator and compacitor.
Your far from upgrading the alternator and a cap is a band aid for a weak electrical system.Right now i have about 2600 watts and still have the stock alternator and one of our Stinger batteries.I might put a cap becasue its ability to discharge at a very quick rate when the subs demand it and also to ease the load on the alt/battery.
I have bypassed the stock amps and put "smaller" amps to power the stock speakers and the sound difference was 10X better.I also put a better amp on the stock door subs and they actually drowned out the Shaker 10" subs in the trunk
I have also recently replaced all speakers and amp.I used the C2R-FRD1, not only becasue we make it, but it also make the radio swap a 5 minute job and gives the acc. wires for a nav unit.
I have bypassed the stock amps and put "smaller" amps to power the stock speakers and the sound difference was 10X better.I also put a better amp on the stock door subs and they actually drowned out the Shaker 10" subs in the trunk
I have also recently replaced all speakers and amp.I used the C2R-FRD1, not only becasue we make it, but it also make the radio swap a 5 minute job and gives the acc. wires for a nav unit.
Last edited by Iskwezm; Feb 9, 2010 at 11:08 PM.
Your far from upgrading the alternator and a cap is a band aid for a weak electrical system.Right now i have about 2600 watts and still have the stock alternator and one of our Stinger batteries.I might put a cap becasue its ability to discharge at a very quick rate when the subs demand it and also to ease the load on the alt/battery.
I have bypassed the stock amps and put "smaller" amps to power the stock speakers and the sound difference was 10X better.I also put a better amp on the stock door subs and they actually drowned out the Shaker 10" subs in the trunk
I have also recently replaced all speakers and amp.I used the C2R-FRD1, not only becasue we make it, but it also make the radio swap a 5 minute job and gives the acc. wires for a nav unit.
I have bypassed the stock amps and put "smaller" amps to power the stock speakers and the sound difference was 10X better.I also put a better amp on the stock door subs and they actually drowned out the Shaker 10" subs in the trunk
I have also recently replaced all speakers and amp.I used the C2R-FRD1, not only becasue we make it, but it also make the radio swap a 5 minute job and gives the acc. wires for a nav unit.
4 18" fi btl subs 20,000 rockford fosgate watts 4 iragge h.o.alternators/ 15.3v mla module 7xs power d3100 batteries re audio mids/highs @ 170.9 decibel
I am confused...lol
I mean I understand what everyone is talking about, but I don't need that much power :P
So will the sound improve if I upgrade the speakers, the HU, or amps for the price that I am looking for $500-$1000.
I mean I understand what everyone is talking about, but I don't need that much power :P
So will the sound improve if I upgrade the speakers, the HU, or amps for the price that I am looking for $500-$1000.
Last edited by Smooth_J; Feb 12, 2010 at 06:09 AM.
lol your funny i said depending on how many watts are pulled not what he has now, if he is going all out then he might want to either add a alternator or buy an upgrade. my system setup in my tahoe i have......
4 18" fi btl subs 20,000 rockford fosgate watts 4 iragge h.o.alternators/ 15.3v mla module 7xs power d3100 batteries re audio mids/highs @ 170.9 decibel
4 18" fi btl subs 20,000 rockford fosgate watts 4 iragge h.o.alternators/ 15.3v mla module 7xs power d3100 batteries re audio mids/highs @ 170.9 decibel
So your close to the world record with your set up.Have any pics?I think world record last time i saw was 180.5dB with 1 18" and 1 amp.


