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Elec Help Pls…Window/Stereo issues

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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 01:14 PM
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Default Elec Help Pls…Window/Stereo issues

I’ll be drinking heavily this evening. This is why: power windows quit working and no sound from the stereo system.

Heres how my car got into this situation. For a Kicker self powered sub installation I needed to install a low level input converter for some RCA's. Using several of the tutorials from the forum, I installed the input last night, tested it out, and the stereo/sub combo worked fine. I went out this morning to tidy up the install (split loom, zip ties, reinstalling rear seat, etc) – and nothing. Stereo wouldn’t even power on. So I started to disconnect wiring done during the process. Now I’m to the point where all wiring I installed has been disconnected and the fuses in passenger & engine compartments all checked out good.

The problem is now the stereo powers up and appears to be working normal – except there is no sound. Also, the windows no longer work, except the auto up/down feature when opening and closing the doors still works fine.

What did I destroy? And how expensive is the fix going to be? Help!

If it helps, the factory wiring I ‘touched’:
- LH & RH rear speaker wires; to attach the high level input wires
- Run/Access wire; the GY/YE wire in the harness behind the glove box shown in one of the tutorials

And the wiring I added:
- Ground for convertor
- Ground for kicker amp
- Power wire for kicker amp
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 01:35 PM
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If the stereo is on, the fuse for that is ok. You say no sound at all? The 4 driver speakers are independent, so unless you yanked ´em somewhere down the line, or cut them you should still get sound from those as the head-unit is powering them. Did you try just slapping the old shaker(I assume) back in and seeing if you get sound? Or if the mute button on the new radio was active?

The windows...can´t remember what they´re on, but I´d try to yank the ground from the battery for the allotted time to reset the computer. Then if it´s still busted, hold them for the what is it? 30 seconds up, then down, etc.., to get them to reset, and of course check the connection/fuse for it.

I´m unfamiliar as to what instructional your referring to, but it should all be readily fixable short of frying the SJB.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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Thanks for the help, its all good now. After disconnecting the battery & doing the window reset I found this post describing a fix for the same problem. I swapped out fuse #6, 5a Accessory Delay Feeds, and problem solved.

Now on to other headache - putting the stupid kicker sub/amp back in w/out blowing any more fuses.......
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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This weekend I'm gonna try to finish getting this amp/sub to work w/out blowing the delay circuit fuse or making the pop sounds. I know I need to install the resistor and i've seen several posts describing this in general. Does anyone have specific guidance or a link with detailed instructions.
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Hack Job
I know I need to install the resistor and i've seen several posts describing this in general. Does anyone have specific guidance or a link with detailed instructions.
I was helping someone else out with some install and actually wired up a spare harness and resistor to show exactly how to do it, along with a bypass relay(ignore that part) here. Kinda crappy pics, but it was adhoc. But should show what has previously been stated well enough.

Last edited by wayne613; Feb 16, 2011 at 06:21 PM.
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 10:06 PM
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i remember when i did my resistor i just took the power wire fuse out, and put the resistor to the two different connectors there.

fuse i have is this style http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y-Scosche.html
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by d.girardi
i remember when i did my resistor i just took the power wire fuse out, and put the resistor to the two different connectors there.
Where is the power wire you used? Behind the HU? I was hoping to avoid pulling the HU out.

Originally Posted by wayne613
I was helping someone else out with some install and actually wired up a spare harness and resistor to show exactly how to do it, along with a bypass relay(ignore that part) here. Kinda crappy pics, but it was adhoc. But should show what has previously been stated well enough.
Same, same...i have not removed the HU. I was trying to tap the remote turn on wire behind the glove box. Is there a power wire near there for the resistor?


Dont really want to take the console/HU out unless I absolutely have to. This whole amp install is getting really old for what should have been a simple project. I'm 95% done, just the popping sound started occuring and the accessory delay fuse was blowing.

Any MFers near Eglin AFB have any experience with this? Three day weekend....i'll be wasting time on my car the whole time.
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Hack Job
Where is the power wire you used? Behind the HU? I was hoping to avoid pulling the HU out.
My power wire was from the battery to the capacitor(which I have since learned do nothing) then from the capacitor it ran to the amp.
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Hack Job
Same, same...i have not removed the HU. I was trying to tap the remote turn on wire behind the glove box. Is there a power wire near there for the resistor?
I'm not completely following this then, why are you putting a resistor in if you're not touching the factory remote turn on lines? You haven't touched the factory radio either, right? The kicker amp turn on should be 12v, so a fuse tap on F6 or F4 in the SJB would do.

The only reason to add a resistor for a power line in this case 99.9999999999% of the time is to drop the remote turn on lead from the after-market radio from 12v to 5v for the POS factory amps for the shaker subs. If you're not doing/done this, then I'm not following here..

Something is off from what you've stated so far, if your not shorting something, only the after-market amp turn-on is being used from the delayed accessory feed line (main amp power is direct to battery using an in-line fuse), it really doesn't account for popping that 5amp fuse unless there is something wrong with that amp.

You say it has popping sounds now? Where from exactly? Do you have a shaker install? Factory head-unit is still being used? Is it a thumping sound from the factory subs?

Basic layout here.

Last edited by wayne613; Feb 17, 2011 at 10:58 AM.
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by d.girardi
My power wire was from the battery to the capacitor(which I have since learned do nothing) then from the capacitor it ran to the amp.
The power for the amp is a large power wire w/ fuse from a 150amp install kit (i followed the process detailed by taco bill). My amp doesn't have the draw to require a capacitor.


Originally Posted by wayne613
I'm not completely following this then, why are you putting a resistor in if you're not touching the factory remote turn on lines? You haven't touched the factory radio either, right? The kicker amp turn on should be 12v, so a fuse tap on F6 or F4 in the SJB would do.

The only reason to add a resistor for a power line in this case 99.9999999999% of the time is to drop the remote turn on lead from the after-market radio from 12v to 5v for the POS factory amps for the shaker subs. If you're not doing/done this, then I'm not following here..

Something is off from what you've stated so far, if your not shorting something, only the after-market amp turn-on is being used from the delayed accessory feed line (main amp power is direct to battery using an in-line fuse), it really doesn't account for popping that 5amp fuse unless there is something wrong with that amp.

You say it has popping sounds now? Where from exactly? Do you have a shaker install? Factory head-unit is still being used? Is it a thumping sound from the factory subs?

Basic layout here.
As for the popping, I did nothing to the factory wiring nor have I removed the HU. I tapped into rear deck speakers for a line out converter, i ran the blue 'amp on' wire from the trunk to the wire called out by taco bill (behind the glove box). And I grounded the amp & the line out converter to solid ground points. I turned the system on to test it and it worked. I came out the next morning to finish up the install (wire loom, zip ties, shrink wrap, etc) and at that point things started going wrong.

Windows quit, stereo quit - traced to blown delay fuse. I replaced the fuse and said screw it to the install and disconnected all of the wires i had connected. Now everytime i start the car, the factory speakers (Shaker 500) pop. Various posts call for the use of the resistor so i figured i'd go for it.

So now i have a 3 day weekend and want to finish this mess. All my wiring is ran, but nothing is hooked up. I have the pop (and dont know why). This should be a simple install..........



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