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Stereo issues 2010 GT500

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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #1  
SuperFly03's Avatar
SuperFly03
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Default Stereo issues 2010 GT500

I have a 2010 GT500, had it about a year and a half. In Feb 2010 I replaced the stock shaker 500 system with some Boston Acoustics SR50 components in both the front and rear. I mounted the crossovers in the door (front) and in the rear deck (rear). Everything was fine for about 6-8 months. Then one day I noticed when I hit a bump my passenger side speaker drops out. The audio doesn't go completely silent but it goes to maybe 15-20% of what the volume should be. If I turn up the volume the level comes back to where it should be then I can turn it down back to a reasonable volume. This typically only happens when the volume is lower (e.g. when its cranked way up and I hit a bump nothing happens) say 60% or less.


I ordered a replacement set of SR50's that arrived last night. I started by replacing the crossover, then the woofer, and the tweeter. None of it helped. I went so far as to solder the speaker connections in case they weren't 100% secure. Still dropping out.


Please, ideas, thoughts, suggestions, critiques.


This is not my first stereo mod i've done and nor do any other speakers have problems.


Side note: I also installed a 12" sub w/ BA 400w amp in the trunk but it is fed off the rear speaker lines and there are no issues with the sub or the rear speakers.


Pictures availible on request.


Thanks!
Old Feb 3, 2012 | 12:21 AM
  #2  
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you hooked the bostons up to the stock amps?
Old Feb 3, 2012 | 10:59 AM
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just wondering..you said this happens when you hit a bump..might something in the head unit be shorting out?
Old Feb 4, 2012 | 08:55 AM
  #4  
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incorrigible
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Can't help you with your issue, however, I might be interested in buying your old Shaker 500 head unit for my base GT. PM me if you want to sell it.
Old Feb 4, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #5  
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SuperFly03
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Originally Posted by ttocs
you hooked the bostons up to the stock amps?
Yes. Plan to add a separate amp later.
Old Feb 4, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by gtbillyb
just wondering..you said this happens when you hit a bump..might something in the head unit be shorting out?
Potentially. That's kind of where I'm starting to lean. I've got to take apart the factory wiring bundle in the door and check that first. Make my way back towards the dash.
Old Feb 5, 2012 | 09:02 AM
  #7  
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I'd start checking all your factory wiring for tears in the insulation where the wires might have pinched and sliced against the metal. I haven't had my '11 for 6 months yet and it's already happened to me like that. Also, since you've had to disconnect some of the audio-related connectors in the doors, I would give the connector pins themselves a good looking over to make sure they're not recessed into the connector even slightly. That also can cause the symptoms you are having. It sounds as if you're getting a partial short somewhere if it's not your HU going out.
Old Feb 5, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #8  
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SuperFly03
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Originally Posted by 11GTdriver
I'd start checking all your factory wiring for tears in the insulation where the wires might have pinched and sliced against the metal. I haven't had my '11 for 6 months yet and it's already happened to me like that. Also, since you've had to disconnect some of the audio-related connectors in the doors, I would give the connector pins themselves a good looking over to make sure they're not recessed into the connector even slightly. That also can cause the symptoms you are having. It sounds as if you're getting a partial short somewhere if it's not your HU going out.
That's what I was thinking... haven't had a chance to dig into the factory bundles yet though.

Just making sure I wasn't missing anything obvious.
Old Feb 5, 2012 | 10:01 PM
  #9  
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I am better with the mach systems then I am the shakers but I am willing to bet that ford still used funny impedence(ohms value) speakers to make it harder for people to integrate into. In the mach they used an 8 ohm woofer so that if you replaced it with a standard 4 ohm driver the amp would not work. If you have the stock speakers, turn them over and see if the ohm value is written on the magnet or anywhere else. If it isn't and you have an ohm meter I would hook it up and take a reading.
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