Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Ford Mustang Interior Guides
- Ford Mustang GT 2005-2014: How to Install Door Sub
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Browse all: Ford Mustang Interior Guides
Adding additional amp/sub to Shaker 500 - AOEM-FRD24?
#1
Adding additional amp/sub to Shaker 500 - AOEM-FRD24?
I have the shaker 500 + OEM 8" door subs in my 2012. I'd like to add an additional amp/sub to the system, and keep all the OEM amps/subs already there.
Is this the correct part I need to be able to add the additional amp to my system?
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28
Is this the correct part I need to be able to add the additional amp to my system?
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28
#3
The Shaker 500 has one external amp located just above the drivers side kick panel. This is a 13.6 V amp, so it is limited to about 10Wx2x2 RMS, which is a little like trying to tow a water skier with 4 trolling motors. I followed a few others and used an amp with speaker level inputs and used the rear speakers to drive it. These have the full freq. range. This totally bypassed the factory amp.
I also followed a few others and used the Shelby Kicker subs for the doors. The subs are an easy fit, Shelby instructions are pretty good, they use the factory wires so the wiring is pretty easy. I prefer to cut and solder the wires with out adding more connectors, I think they have a wiring harness. I used a Sony 200W Sony XM-4S that actually fit where the factory amp was. It turns on automatically in the "speaker input mode" which saves a little wiring. The sound is very good. The base is very good, but not like a pair of 10" or 12" subs in the trunk. There is a little rattling at high volumes, I plan on adding dynomat soon.
I do not like the Shelby speaker covers, I'm trying to find a way to use the factory speaker covers.
I may run the remaining 2 channels to the 6x8" door speakers, I did change them out to Pioneer speakers. I'm not sure I'd gain much, the noise from using the speaker output to run subs is not noticeable, but might be noticeable in the mid and high freq range.
I also followed a few others and used the Shelby Kicker subs for the doors. The subs are an easy fit, Shelby instructions are pretty good, they use the factory wires so the wiring is pretty easy. I prefer to cut and solder the wires with out adding more connectors, I think they have a wiring harness. I used a Sony 200W Sony XM-4S that actually fit where the factory amp was. It turns on automatically in the "speaker input mode" which saves a little wiring. The sound is very good. The base is very good, but not like a pair of 10" or 12" subs in the trunk. There is a little rattling at high volumes, I plan on adding dynomat soon.
I do not like the Shelby speaker covers, I'm trying to find a way to use the factory speaker covers.
I may run the remaining 2 channels to the 6x8" door speakers, I did change them out to Pioneer speakers. I'm not sure I'd gain much, the noise from using the speaker output to run subs is not noticeable, but might be noticeable in the mid and high freq range.
#4
Trying to Piece Together Some Knowledge
I just bought a 2012 GT500 with the Shaker 500 and have been looking at several options for upgrading the sound. I have been researching the boards for a week and decided to concentrate on the Kenwood/Maestro setup however, I spoke to a local car audio guy and he said you can't bypass the shaker stuff due to limitations of sync or something similar. Not sure what he meant but reading the above post something stuck out to me and it was this statement:
"I followed a few others and used an amp with speaker level inputs and used the rear speakers to drive it."
Could this be some work around for the limitation the audio guy was talking about?
My original idea was to replace the stock head unit with the Kenwood so I could get the navigation and the Maestro for all the other features. Of course the OEM amp, Subs and speakers have to go so how could I replace the entire system and still use the Sync with the Kenwood and Maestro setup?
"I followed a few others and used an amp with speaker level inputs and used the rear speakers to drive it."
Could this be some work around for the limitation the audio guy was talking about?
My original idea was to replace the stock head unit with the Kenwood so I could get the navigation and the Maestro for all the other features. Of course the OEM amp, Subs and speakers have to go so how could I replace the entire system and still use the Sync with the Kenwood and Maestro setup?
#5
Originally Posted by brycspain
Of course the OEM amp, Subs and speakers have to go so how could I replace the entire system and still use the Sync with the Kenwood and Maestro setup?
#7
https://mustangforums.com/forum/audi...ker-500-a.html
I have a 2012 with the shaker 500, here is what I did. Sync works fine.
For those who parrot specs but don't understand them, let me try to explain, a good amp has an internal voltage supply that provides about 70 volts to the output stage. This allows the output stage to drive a good 4 ohm speaker. A poor amp has a bunch
( in this case 4) low voltage drivers that each feed a speaker coil. So you have a total of 4 crappy drivers feeding 4 crappy 1.2 ohm voice coils, instead of a good clean push pull output stage. One of the reasons (imho) that some of these sound good and some don't, all of the output stages have to be matched for voltage, current, impendance and phase at every frequency, and for every speaker. Any variance or drift over time (or temperature) and they will sound fuzzy.
You will need to remove, or at least disconnect the stock amp. I used a Sony amp in the stock amp's location. You can use all of the existing speaker wires, but you will need to replace the factory 1.2 ohm dual coil speakers, and use one set of the wires to each one. The Shelby replacement speakers are very good quality 4 ohm single voice coil, which can be driven from most amps.
I have a 2012 with the shaker 500, here is what I did. Sync works fine.
For those who parrot specs but don't understand them, let me try to explain, a good amp has an internal voltage supply that provides about 70 volts to the output stage. This allows the output stage to drive a good 4 ohm speaker. A poor amp has a bunch
( in this case 4) low voltage drivers that each feed a speaker coil. So you have a total of 4 crappy drivers feeding 4 crappy 1.2 ohm voice coils, instead of a good clean push pull output stage. One of the reasons (imho) that some of these sound good and some don't, all of the output stages have to be matched for voltage, current, impendance and phase at every frequency, and for every speaker. Any variance or drift over time (or temperature) and they will sound fuzzy.
You will need to remove, or at least disconnect the stock amp. I used a Sony amp in the stock amp's location. You can use all of the existing speaker wires, but you will need to replace the factory 1.2 ohm dual coil speakers, and use one set of the wires to each one. The Shelby replacement speakers are very good quality 4 ohm single voice coil, which can be driven from most amps.
#8
Refering to my question
https://mustangforums.com/forum/audi...ker-500-a.html
I have a 2012 with the shaker 500, here is what I did. Sync works fine.
For those who parrot specs but don't understand them, let me try to explain, a good amp has an internal voltage supply that provides about 70 volts to the output stage. This allows the output stage to drive a good 4 ohm speaker. A poor amp has a bunch
( in this case 4) low voltage drivers that each feed a speaker coil. So you have a total of 4 crappy drivers feeding 4 crappy 1.2 ohm voice coils, instead of a good clean push pull output stage. One of the reasons (imho) that some of these sound good and some don't, all of the output stages have to be matched for voltage, current, impendance and phase at every frequency, and for every speaker. Any variance or drift over time (or temperature) and they will sound fuzzy.
You will need to remove, or at least disconnect the stock amp. I used a Sony amp in the stock amp's location. You can use all of the existing speaker wires, but you will need to replace the factory 1.2 ohm dual coil speakers, and use one set of the wires to each one. The Shelby replacement speakers are very good quality 4 ohm single voice coil, which can be driven from most amps.
I have a 2012 with the shaker 500, here is what I did. Sync works fine.
For those who parrot specs but don't understand them, let me try to explain, a good amp has an internal voltage supply that provides about 70 volts to the output stage. This allows the output stage to drive a good 4 ohm speaker. A poor amp has a bunch
( in this case 4) low voltage drivers that each feed a speaker coil. So you have a total of 4 crappy drivers feeding 4 crappy 1.2 ohm voice coils, instead of a good clean push pull output stage. One of the reasons (imho) that some of these sound good and some don't, all of the output stages have to be matched for voltage, current, impendance and phase at every frequency, and for every speaker. Any variance or drift over time (or temperature) and they will sound fuzzy.
You will need to remove, or at least disconnect the stock amp. I used a Sony amp in the stock amp's location. You can use all of the existing speaker wires, but you will need to replace the factory 1.2 ohm dual coil speakers, and use one set of the wires to each one. The Shelby replacement speakers are very good quality 4 ohm single voice coil, which can be driven from most amps.
My original question was if I replace the factory head unit with the kenwood and maestro combo do I have to use any of the old shaker system in order to get all of the bells and whistles that I would have gotten if I left the old Shaker system intact? So the theory is replace the factory head unit, amp, speakers, wires, etc. If not, can you explain that please. I mean talk to me like I'm 6 yrs old. =)
Last edited by brycspain; 02-25-2014 at 08:39 PM.
#9
If you replace the head unit, you will not need the pac adapters, you will need to replace the factory amp and speakers. I'm not a big Crutchfield fan ,but they can give you a complete list of everything you'll need. They have several heads that have all of the features that Sync has. You can type in your model and year, you'll be directed to several complete systems.
#10
I just bought a 2012 GT500 with the Shaker 500 and have been looking at several options for upgrading the sound. I have been researching the boards for a week and decided to concentrate on the Kenwood/Maestro setup however, I spoke to a local car audio guy and he said you can't bypass the shaker stuff due to limitations of sync or something similar. Not sure what he meant but reading the above post something stuck out to me and it was this statement:
"I followed a few others and used an amp with speaker level inputs and used the rear speakers to drive it."
Could this be some work around for the limitation the audio guy was talking about?
My original idea was to replace the stock head unit with the Kenwood so I could get the navigation and the Maestro for all the other features. Of course the OEM amp, Subs and speakers have to go so how could I replace the entire system and still use the Sync with the Kenwood and Maestro setup?
"I followed a few others and used an amp with speaker level inputs and used the rear speakers to drive it."
Could this be some work around for the limitation the audio guy was talking about?
My original idea was to replace the stock head unit with the Kenwood so I could get the navigation and the Maestro for all the other features. Of course the OEM amp, Subs and speakers have to go so how could I replace the entire system and still use the Sync with the Kenwood and Maestro setup?
When you flash, you need to DESELECT factory amplifier on the website, indicating you will not be retaining it.
Cheers,
12V Guy