My '68 Build Thread.
05-20-2010, 11:14 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 2,377
My '68 Build Thread.
Let me start this thread off by explaining this project. My grandfather put this car in my name the day I was born. It has been in the family since the 70's and has acquired quite the sentimental value among us and my friends. I wanted to build this car over my S197 since I was knee high, but due to parents safety concerns it was put on the back burner.
Fast forward to present day. My dad has been around hot rods his entire life, I'm knee deep myself, and my mother has taken interest. We sparked a plan to build a cruiser that was every day street able with a punch and some modern upgrades. This will not be my end plan for this car but I will not have the funds to do what I want for quite some time so having the car back on the road will truly be a blessing!
So the game plan. We put together a sweet little 347 stroker. It has one of our forged 302 stroker cranks a long with H-beam rods and forged 9.3 CR pistons. All of this is in a late model block with an Edlebrock top end kit. I wanted to pay the difference for the AFR heads, but I suppose that will come down the road when it's 100% on my bankroll. I have a few carbs that I can top it with for the time being but it will eventually be topped off with a FAST easy EFI kit.
Here's my only current shot of the motor:
I will continue to update this thread with pictures as I get them. First plan of attack was getting the fuel system straight. My grandfather never had the tank out of the car before it was parked at our house, but the original owner had really done a job mismatching bolts and making it a harder job than it needed to be (typical). So after a morning of tinkering I got here:
Now after taking the gas tank out to a local radiator shop and getting a quote on having it boiled due to some pretty heavy rust, I decided it was more cost effective for a new tank. I ordered a new 22 gallon replacement from Mustang1 that should be here Tuesday or Wednesday:
http://mustang1.com/shop.htm?act=sde...command=bypass
And one last shot after putting the top up. Good news is the top works flawlessly!
So, what now you may ask? I spent a good chunk of the day simply going over the car.
The Good:
Minimal rust
Fuel lines are good
Minus carpet, interior is excellent
I found a brand new dash in the trunk
The Bad:
Body lines/gaps are off.
Passenger side door doesn't open.
So that being said the first thing I need help with is the suspension. I have no idea what needs to be replaced (it seems like basically everything). I would also love some recommendations for new wheels, something in the 16-17" 5 spoke variety.
I do know on the top of my short list is a front disc brake conversion, which kits out there come highly recommended?
The ETA to have the motor in/car running is 2-3 weeks right now. A new top and back glass needs to be ordered before I can do anything else so that the car is water tight. It will then take a ride over to my local shop (BB&T) for some assistance in getting the current drive train out and transmission gone through and swapped. When someone offers a lift I don't say no! I'm hoping to be able to pressure wash and clean the engine bay for some fresh paint before the motor goes back in as well. The plan for body work is over the cooler months so that we won't lose any top dropping time!
Fast forward to present day. My dad has been around hot rods his entire life, I'm knee deep myself, and my mother has taken interest. We sparked a plan to build a cruiser that was every day street able with a punch and some modern upgrades. This will not be my end plan for this car but I will not have the funds to do what I want for quite some time so having the car back on the road will truly be a blessing!
So the game plan. We put together a sweet little 347 stroker. It has one of our forged 302 stroker cranks a long with H-beam rods and forged 9.3 CR pistons. All of this is in a late model block with an Edlebrock top end kit. I wanted to pay the difference for the AFR heads, but I suppose that will come down the road when it's 100% on my bankroll. I have a few carbs that I can top it with for the time being but it will eventually be topped off with a FAST easy EFI kit.
Here's my only current shot of the motor:
I will continue to update this thread with pictures as I get them. First plan of attack was getting the fuel system straight. My grandfather never had the tank out of the car before it was parked at our house, but the original owner had really done a job mismatching bolts and making it a harder job than it needed to be (typical). So after a morning of tinkering I got here:
Now after taking the gas tank out to a local radiator shop and getting a quote on having it boiled due to some pretty heavy rust, I decided it was more cost effective for a new tank. I ordered a new 22 gallon replacement from Mustang1 that should be here Tuesday or Wednesday:
http://mustang1.com/shop.htm?act=sde...command=bypass
And one last shot after putting the top up. Good news is the top works flawlessly!
So, what now you may ask? I spent a good chunk of the day simply going over the car.
The Good:
Minimal rust
Fuel lines are good
Minus carpet, interior is excellent
I found a brand new dash in the trunk
The Bad:
Body lines/gaps are off.
Passenger side door doesn't open.
So that being said the first thing I need help with is the suspension. I have no idea what needs to be replaced (it seems like basically everything). I would also love some recommendations for new wheels, something in the 16-17" 5 spoke variety.
I do know on the top of my short list is a front disc brake conversion, which kits out there come highly recommended?
The ETA to have the motor in/car running is 2-3 weeks right now. A new top and back glass needs to be ordered before I can do anything else so that the car is water tight. It will then take a ride over to my local shop (BB&T) for some assistance in getting the current drive train out and transmission gone through and swapped. When someone offers a lift I don't say no! I'm hoping to be able to pressure wash and clean the engine bay for some fresh paint before the motor goes back in as well. The plan for body work is over the cooler months so that we won't lose any top dropping time!
05-21-2010, 07:30 AM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 4,462
Thats a sweet project. It looks like your going a similar route that I did. I kept mine looking nearly stock, but upgraded alot of the mechanical stuff.
I have Granada disc brakes and think that it is a good way to go. I am happing with them. Another great way to go is to just get the OE style front discs.
Keep in mind that these cars weren't perfect when they were new and the body panel gaps were not perfect either.
My choice for wheels is 15x7 Magnum 500, OE chrome styled steel wheel, torque thrust, cragar ss, keystone klassic etc. If you want to go bigger then I say 16 inch. I think classic cars look weird when there is a thin sidewall.
I have Granada disc brakes and think that it is a good way to go. I am happing with them. Another great way to go is to just get the OE style front discs.
Keep in mind that these cars weren't perfect when they were new and the body panel gaps were not perfect either.
My choice for wheels is 15x7 Magnum 500, OE chrome styled steel wheel, torque thrust, cragar ss, keystone klassic etc. If you want to go bigger then I say 16 inch. I think classic cars look weird when there is a thin sidewall.
05-21-2010, 08:19 AM
#3
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 2,377
Thats a sweet project. It looks like your going a similar route that I did. I kept mine looking nearly stock, but upgraded alot of the mechanical stuff.
I have Granada disc brakes and think that it is a good way to go. I am happing with them. Another great way to go is to just get the OE style front discs.
Keep in mind that these cars weren't perfect when they were new and the body panel gaps were not perfect either.
My choice for wheels is 15x7 Magnum 500, OE chrome styled steel wheel, torque thrust, cragar ss, keystone klassic etc. If you want to go bigger then I say 16 inch. I think classic cars look weird when there is a thin sidewall.
I have Granada disc brakes and think that it is a good way to go. I am happing with them. Another great way to go is to just get the OE style front discs.
Keep in mind that these cars weren't perfect when they were new and the body panel gaps were not perfect either.
My choice for wheels is 15x7 Magnum 500, OE chrome styled steel wheel, torque thrust, cragar ss, keystone klassic etc. If you want to go bigger then I say 16 inch. I think classic cars look weird when there is a thin sidewall.
The Granada conversion seems to be popular as it keeps popping up in my searching. I don't expect gaps to be perfect per say but a few of them *especially the trunk* are several inches off.
I really like the Cragar SS wheels and they are probably what I will go with, anything I can order through Summit is a perk as I can get a discount through work.
And after a little more work last night I know parts of the top assembly are shot. Can anyone point me in the direction of a quality top and the other pieces that would typically go bad? It will require a back glass as well since that is missing.
05-26-2010, 02:23 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 2,377
The car is not a factory GT, but it has a lot of GT pieces in and on it. It has a factory tilt steering column in it as well as the grille, and it also has factory AC on it which is original. From what I know about the car it was in a rear end collision which is probably why it has that valance on it (I couldn't tell you the difference between one and another, quite frankly). The exhaust looks to be a mid muffler/resonator set up with split tips, I really like how the split tips look with the bumper so I will try to incorporate that into the new exhaust.
And appreciate the compliments on my other car, if you snoop through my threads you'll find plenty of pictures. Nice thing about the new cars is you don't really have to worry about "ruining" it like you do a classic.
And an update to the thread, the new tank came in yesterday and I will be painting it this evening. Cleaned up the filler neck in the blasting cabinet and it looks good as new!
05-26-2010, 05:58 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 678
You do know you'll need to change the angle of the filler neck to match up with the '70 tank inlet right? Might want to test fit first to get an angle. Some people cut a pie shape out of the '67/'68 necks and reweld to line up with the '70 tank, others put a pipe (match outer diam. to inner diam. of outlet) in the '70 outlet and 'tweak' it to line up, you have to be careful not to break the seal of the outlet to tank. I'm thinking a '70 neck would probably line right up but may need to be shortened not to hit.
I'll be installing the '70 tank in my '67 later once I'm on the road. Your car looks like a nice starter with plenty of family history. Maybe one day I'll get down to Memphis from Nashville and we can see what a little 333ci can do against a similarly equipped 347????
Jon
I'll be installing the '70 tank in my '67 later once I'm on the road. Your car looks like a nice starter with plenty of family history. Maybe one day I'll get down to Memphis from Nashville and we can see what a little 333ci can do against a similarly equipped 347????
Jon
05-27-2010, 11:09 AM
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 2,377
Hey Jon, yes I do know I'll need a little modification. The good thing is what I don't know I can learn, and since I work in a machine shop I have access to about whatever I could want. I plan on just playing with the stock piece until it works!
As far as coming down your more than welcome! Maybe next spring once I get the bugs all worked out
As far as coming down your more than welcome! Maybe next spring once I get the bugs all worked out
05-27-2010, 08:40 PM
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 2,377
Well today was an eventful day! Got the tank put in, only problem is it made the rest of the trunk look like crap. I know what to get to when it gets back from the shop! The trunk will end up the same color as the tank, as well as a fresh coat on the engine bay and wheel wells.
The passenger door now opens as well, a little time with a slim jim an some WD40/lithium grease did the trick nicely!
On the agenda for tomorrow is getting the motor/trans out and assessed, and getting the transmission off to the tranny guy to rebuild. I also found out that the tilt steering column may be broken, as it will not lock into its position if you put pressure on it, it simply gives way. May be time for a flaming river set up!
The passenger door now opens as well, a little time with a slim jim an some WD40/lithium grease did the trick nicely!
On the agenda for tomorrow is getting the motor/trans out and assessed, and getting the transmission off to the tranny guy to rebuild. I also found out that the tilt steering column may be broken, as it will not lock into its position if you put pressure on it, it simply gives way. May be time for a flaming river set up!
05-28-2010, 12:19 AM
#10
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 678
You might want to consider looking at POR15 for that trunk, used it on my inner firewall/floorboard and was really impressed with it's look and durability. Got a drip through a hole to the enginebay, couldn't chip it off, sandpaper didn't scratch it, tough stuff. Wish I would have painted my front frame rails with it and it works well over surface rust once pretreated.
Good thing you're taking lots of pics, I gotta feeling that cars looks are gonna change fast!
Jon
Good thing you're taking lots of pics, I gotta feeling that cars looks are gonna change fast!
Jon