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Old 03-05-2012, 09:07 PM
  #11  
mlax
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A couple more pics
Attached Thumbnails 68 Fastback-1-2-08-090.jpg   68 Fastback-1-2-08-051.jpg   68 Fastback-1-2-08-064.jpg   68 Fastback-1-2-08-065.jpg  
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:47 AM
  #12  
andrewmp6
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If you want it to handle i would stay away from heidts and martz both sell mustang 2 kits.If i had to do mine over or build a car i would use http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-...-pr-24491.html for the front.For brakes that fit a 15 inch rim would be like a 4 piston wilwood or http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-...-pr-24455.html
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:28 PM
  #13  
musnicki
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I used the kit from Rod and Custom Motor Sports, front and back. The car handles like a BMW but has the torque of a Mustang.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:37 PM
  #14  
andrewmp6
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But a bmw don't handle that good motor trend did a test of a m3 vs a new mustang the handling numbers where about even on both cars.
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:11 AM
  #15  
dodgestang
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How on earth do we go from mustang engineers after nearly 50 years of work finally making a car that can almost keep up with an M series (stock to stock) to:

Originally Posted by andrewmp6
But a bmw don't handle that good
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:17 PM
  #16  
mlax
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The Rod and Custom is a weld in application correct? Is it better to go with a complete weld in style or can you actually get the same results with a bolt in set up? (be it a coil over or other style)
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:29 PM
  #17  
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It's a bolt in, in the rear. The front you'll need to remove the shock towers and weld in a flat panel, which makes the engine bay a flat square. Also, weld in a 2 inch solid bar that connects left and right frame rails.

I did the conversion on mine because my car was in a wreck 20 years ago and had lead welds. This made the front very unstable at high speeds.
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