steering column issues
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 34
steering column issues
hi guys-i have a 1966 mustang convertible-the steering column does not return to the center position after making a right or left hand turn-gear box has been checked -ok-suspect that they steering column bearings might be needed to be replaced-the front end alignment-ok-brand new tires and rims-any ideas-or is my assumption correct or incorrect about the column-thanks
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
If I understand correctly, what you mean is that the steering system itself (wheels, linkage, steering wheel, etc.) does not return to center. The column shouldn't move at all when you turn the wheel.
Is this a new problem, or something you inherited with the car? Do you have manual or power steering?
The gear box and column bearings have little to do with the return-to-center function of the steering system. Return-to-center is generally provided by alignment angles, particularly caster. If you don't have enough positive caster, you'll lose a lot of the return-to-center functionality. On your car, this is achieved by having a good alignment shop add and remove shims on the upper control arm mounting points until proper alignment is achieved.
Also, there are special road racing style short idler and pitman arms available that I believe mess with the return-to-center. A roller idler arm on a m/s car will have a tendency to allow steering wander around straight forward driving angle on m/s cars, but this doesn't sound like the problem you're having.
Alignment should be as follows:
Caster: 2*+, even left/right (more is better, but not always possible)
Camber: -1/2* to -1/4*
Toe: -1/8" (eg. toe-in 1/8")
These specs do not match OE for these cars because OE specs are for bias-ply tires. If the alignment shop won't set them to these specs or seems unsure of how to align the car, take it somewhere else. You will, however, need to make sure your front end is tight. If there are any loose ball joints, tie rods, or bushings, setting the alignment is a waste of time until they are replaced.
Is this a new problem, or something you inherited with the car? Do you have manual or power steering?
The gear box and column bearings have little to do with the return-to-center function of the steering system. Return-to-center is generally provided by alignment angles, particularly caster. If you don't have enough positive caster, you'll lose a lot of the return-to-center functionality. On your car, this is achieved by having a good alignment shop add and remove shims on the upper control arm mounting points until proper alignment is achieved.
Also, there are special road racing style short idler and pitman arms available that I believe mess with the return-to-center. A roller idler arm on a m/s car will have a tendency to allow steering wander around straight forward driving angle on m/s cars, but this doesn't sound like the problem you're having.
Alignment should be as follows:
Caster: 2*+, even left/right (more is better, but not always possible)
Camber: -1/2* to -1/4*
Toe: -1/8" (eg. toe-in 1/8")
These specs do not match OE for these cars because OE specs are for bias-ply tires. If the alignment shop won't set them to these specs or seems unsure of how to align the car, take it somewhere else. You will, however, need to make sure your front end is tight. If there are any loose ball joints, tie rods, or bushings, setting the alignment is a waste of time until they are replaced.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 34
yes i have power steering-my error-not column but the steering wheel does not rotate back to center position after turning either to the right or left-the front end-
the front end has been realigned-i have new idler arms
the front end has been realigned-i have new idler arms
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
a) What specs were used during the alignment? Power steering cars like upwards of 5* caster, but it's not always possible to achieve that with a reasonable amount of UCA shims.
b) What idler/pitman did you use? The pitman arm connects to the steering box, the idler arm (there's only one) connects to the p-side frame rail. shortened "race" units increase steering response but reduce leverage, which effects return-to-center functionality.
Assuming the other options have been explored, it's possible the steering valve might have some issues. It might be worth giving Chockostang a call to get their opinion. They rebuild factory steering boxes, control valves, and cylinders.
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/
b) What idler/pitman did you use? The pitman arm connects to the steering box, the idler arm (there's only one) connects to the p-side frame rail. shortened "race" units increase steering response but reduce leverage, which effects return-to-center functionality.
Assuming the other options have been explored, it's possible the steering valve might have some issues. It might be worth giving Chockostang a call to get their opinion. They rebuild factory steering boxes, control valves, and cylinders.
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/
Last edited by Starfury; Jun 12, 2017 at 01:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 34
hi starfury-the caster has been set to 2.93 positive on left side and 3.11 positive on the right side-the wheel does not return to center after initial turn-will have to check out the idler arm and steering valve-thks tom
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
As a test, you could disconnect the power steering pump belt and see what happens when you drive the car like that. Keep in mind that the steering will be very sloppy due to play in the power steering valve, but I believe it will still allow normal return to center functionality.
As far as the pitman and idler go, you could measure both from hole center to the center of the ball joint and compare to factory specs.
As far as the pitman and idler go, you could measure both from hole center to the center of the ball joint and compare to factory specs.