So I bought the '65.... *PICS INCLUDED* Opinions wanted
So... I went over and looked at the 1965 coupe I posted about yesterday. Needless to say.. I bought it. I'll probably go get it this weekend.
The vehicle is crazy original... I don't know what you guys think but I think if found a diamond. Original owner... as you can see in the pictures... the ORIGINAL invoice comes with the car!! Just a tiny bit of rust in the trunk on the side panels (as pictured.. but it's pretty much surface) I'm going to be asking how to take care of that soon.
I mean... it drives like a dream... it was overhauled literally 1000 miles ago.. I saw the reciept. It hasn't been tagged since 03... and even before that.. it really hasn't been driven. Carb and Trans were overhauled when the engine was apparently. The exhaust has been redone a year or so ago and the carb was overhauled at the same time.
The engine idles quietly and it started up on the first try... Guys.. I'm pretty freakin stoked!!
And yup... I offered 6000 and they took it!! She said she had wanted 6500 but because I was going to keep it for my son instead of buying it and selling it later... that 6000 was ok, but she want's me to come back and give her a ride whenever she wants!! heh..
The interior is ALL original... and freakin sweet... I think with a detail it would be so freaking nice.... the paint seems really good and with a good wax/buff... whew.....
MAN OH MAN am I stoked!! I almost feel guilty... It really was an old man and and old woman's car!! You can see a picture of the man in one of the pics...
What do you guys think in your experted opinions? I'd really love to know how I did!
oh and if you look close enough at one of the pics you'll see the future owner/operator inside... heh.
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...965%20Mustang/
The vehicle is crazy original... I don't know what you guys think but I think if found a diamond. Original owner... as you can see in the pictures... the ORIGINAL invoice comes with the car!! Just a tiny bit of rust in the trunk on the side panels (as pictured.. but it's pretty much surface) I'm going to be asking how to take care of that soon.
I mean... it drives like a dream... it was overhauled literally 1000 miles ago.. I saw the reciept. It hasn't been tagged since 03... and even before that.. it really hasn't been driven. Carb and Trans were overhauled when the engine was apparently. The exhaust has been redone a year or so ago and the carb was overhauled at the same time.
The engine idles quietly and it started up on the first try... Guys.. I'm pretty freakin stoked!!
And yup... I offered 6000 and they took it!! She said she had wanted 6500 but because I was going to keep it for my son instead of buying it and selling it later... that 6000 was ok, but she want's me to come back and give her a ride whenever she wants!! heh..
The interior is ALL original... and freakin sweet... I think with a detail it would be so freaking nice.... the paint seems really good and with a good wax/buff... whew.....
MAN OH MAN am I stoked!! I almost feel guilty... It really was an old man and and old woman's car!! You can see a picture of the man in one of the pics...
What do you guys think in your experted opinions? I'd really love to know how I did!
oh and if you look close enough at one of the pics you'll see the future owner/operator inside... heh.
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...965%20Mustang/
Looks like you got a good deal in that one. I'm a sucker for an all original car like that anyway. They can be restored over and over, but they're only original once.
ORIGINAL: tylerdru
You found a dime a dozen! Great find.
You found a dime a dozen! Great find.
You sure did find one helluva car though! Im also a sucker for original cars like yours.
I say upgrade what you want to make it more modern and safe but keep the original look like it is now.Edit: I just saw the picture of the original invoice, it's neat to see the options and how much they cost back then. Does it still have working cruise control?
ORIGINAL: 19stang66
Isn't "dime a dozen" supposed to mean that something can be found anywhere? I think what you mean is that this car is kind of rare to found it in it's original condition.
You sure did find one helluva car though! Im also a sucker for original cars like yours.
I say upgrade what you want to make it more modern and safe but keep the original look like it is now.
Edit: I just saw the picture of the original invoice, it's neat to see the options and how much they cost back then. Does it still have working cruise control?
ORIGINAL: tylerdru
You found a dime a dozen! Great find.
You found a dime a dozen! Great find.
You sure did find one helluva car though! Im also a sucker for original cars like yours.
I say upgrade what you want to make it more modern and safe but keep the original look like it is now.Edit: I just saw the picture of the original invoice, it's neat to see the options and how much they cost back then. Does it still have working cruise control?
Did you see that they paid $58.00 for a AM Radio?? That was dang near a fortune in those days! Heh..... a fortune for the old am radio.
Shame on you!
As a police officer you should know better than to steal...especially from old folk
Just kidding!
Well that is a really nice car! IMO, you got a good deal, and a great driver for the coming summer. If I could offer a list of inspection items, as an ex-professional dealership mechanic whose been around the block quite a few times.
Here is what I did with mine when I first got it, and would suggest you do similar:
1). Pull all the wheels and drums. Repack the front wheel bearings with a quality grease. Use a little flat blade screw driver and pop the wheel cylinder boots off. If there is anything other than clean metal inside on any one of them, get 4 rebuild kits, and a master cylinder kit, and rebuild the system before you drive it. Flush the brake fluid completely in either case. Look closely (or do like I did and pull the master cylinder away from the firewall) for any signs of leakage at the master cylinder. Then sit in the car and hold a medium heavy pressure on the brake pedal for a minute or so. If the pedal starts to drift down, rebuild the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.
As you can see, I'm a big believer in rebuilding the entire hydraulic system, no matter where the deficiency is. If one is starting to leak, the others are just behind.
2). If it's Auto, drop the transmission pan, adjust the bands, replace the filter, and add a can of Trans-X in when you refill. BTW: get Type F transmission fluid if you can find it. Ford used a special "friction additive" that GM did not. Your bands and clutches will last a lot longer with the correct fluid, and your transmission will run cooler.
3). Drain the differential and refill. Check your pinion seal and axle seals while you've got it in the air... on jack stands please.
4). Check the coolant with a tester. If it's marginal drain and flush. check the hoses to make sure they are still pliable. and there are no leaks. If there are signs of leakage at the hose ends. remove the hose and clean the housing, then reinstall and tighten. Do not just tighten down on the clamp. Have the system pressure checked and make sure they check the cap.
5). Check the battery with a hydrometer and a load tester. Clean the battery posts and terminals, and add the felt washers, but do not put anything else on the posts or terminals. Electrolyte level should be just below the bottom of the plastic tubes so there is room for expansion as the battery gets hot.
6). Run a compression test, clean, check and adjust points, timing, carb, etc. Add a bottle of Marvel Mystery oil to a full tank of gas, and change the filter after the first tank.
7). Get the engine warmed up then change the oil and filter.
8). Check your belts for any signs of checking or seperation. I replaced my belts and threw the originals in the trunk just because.
9). Check all your lights (including gauge lights trunk light, glove box light, interior lights, etc).
10). Inspect your tires, look closely about 1/2" above the bead area for little cracks that go around the the rim. This is a very good sign of bead seperation if the car was driven with low tire pressure. It also makes for a dangerous kind of blow out. Don't forget to check tread depth, and the spare!
11). check your seat belts for any fraying of the webbing (most commonly not checked at the floor mount, because it's a pain. I took mine off and inspected, and insure you have distinct sharp metalic "click" when you buckle-up.
12). lubricate the door hinges and latch and locks. Check wear on the striker plates, and the catch mechanism. Also make sure you can easily lock and unlock from the inside as well as the outside. A dry graphite in the tumbler works well. Same thing for the trunk, and hood (except the tumber part
).
By the time you finish this, you'll have tags, insurance.
13). Take the car for a short cruise on different surfaces, listen closely for noises while accelerating, decelerating, braking, and going around corners. If all is good, remember this sound, so you have a baseline. Check for pulling, brakes, steering looseness, etc. Turn signal cam, etc. All the gauges work correctly? Note where they ride, so you'll know quickly when something is amiss. Usually I'm pretty excited about a new car, so I think of this drive as if I just finished working on a customer car. That makes me focus.
Now you'll have the confidence to take the family for a nice and sucessful cruise in the country. And you'll know the whole car.
My favorite road side repair kit? Cell phone, credit card and AAA. Haven't had a single breakdown that those three tools couldn't fix.
Have fun! And congratulations on a great find.
As a police officer you should know better than to steal...especially from old folk
Just kidding!Well that is a really nice car! IMO, you got a good deal, and a great driver for the coming summer. If I could offer a list of inspection items, as an ex-professional dealership mechanic whose been around the block quite a few times.
Here is what I did with mine when I first got it, and would suggest you do similar:
1). Pull all the wheels and drums. Repack the front wheel bearings with a quality grease. Use a little flat blade screw driver and pop the wheel cylinder boots off. If there is anything other than clean metal inside on any one of them, get 4 rebuild kits, and a master cylinder kit, and rebuild the system before you drive it. Flush the brake fluid completely in either case. Look closely (or do like I did and pull the master cylinder away from the firewall) for any signs of leakage at the master cylinder. Then sit in the car and hold a medium heavy pressure on the brake pedal for a minute or so. If the pedal starts to drift down, rebuild the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.
As you can see, I'm a big believer in rebuilding the entire hydraulic system, no matter where the deficiency is. If one is starting to leak, the others are just behind.
2). If it's Auto, drop the transmission pan, adjust the bands, replace the filter, and add a can of Trans-X in when you refill. BTW: get Type F transmission fluid if you can find it. Ford used a special "friction additive" that GM did not. Your bands and clutches will last a lot longer with the correct fluid, and your transmission will run cooler.
3). Drain the differential and refill. Check your pinion seal and axle seals while you've got it in the air... on jack stands please.
4). Check the coolant with a tester. If it's marginal drain and flush. check the hoses to make sure they are still pliable. and there are no leaks. If there are signs of leakage at the hose ends. remove the hose and clean the housing, then reinstall and tighten. Do not just tighten down on the clamp. Have the system pressure checked and make sure they check the cap.
5). Check the battery with a hydrometer and a load tester. Clean the battery posts and terminals, and add the felt washers, but do not put anything else on the posts or terminals. Electrolyte level should be just below the bottom of the plastic tubes so there is room for expansion as the battery gets hot.
6). Run a compression test, clean, check and adjust points, timing, carb, etc. Add a bottle of Marvel Mystery oil to a full tank of gas, and change the filter after the first tank.
7). Get the engine warmed up then change the oil and filter.
8). Check your belts for any signs of checking or seperation. I replaced my belts and threw the originals in the trunk just because.
9). Check all your lights (including gauge lights trunk light, glove box light, interior lights, etc).
10). Inspect your tires, look closely about 1/2" above the bead area for little cracks that go around the the rim. This is a very good sign of bead seperation if the car was driven with low tire pressure. It also makes for a dangerous kind of blow out. Don't forget to check tread depth, and the spare!
11). check your seat belts for any fraying of the webbing (most commonly not checked at the floor mount, because it's a pain. I took mine off and inspected, and insure you have distinct sharp metalic "click" when you buckle-up.
12). lubricate the door hinges and latch and locks. Check wear on the striker plates, and the catch mechanism. Also make sure you can easily lock and unlock from the inside as well as the outside. A dry graphite in the tumbler works well. Same thing for the trunk, and hood (except the tumber part
).By the time you finish this, you'll have tags, insurance.
13). Take the car for a short cruise on different surfaces, listen closely for noises while accelerating, decelerating, braking, and going around corners. If all is good, remember this sound, so you have a baseline. Check for pulling, brakes, steering looseness, etc. Turn signal cam, etc. All the gauges work correctly? Note where they ride, so you'll know quickly when something is amiss. Usually I'm pretty excited about a new car, so I think of this drive as if I just finished working on a customer car. That makes me focus.
Now you'll have the confidence to take the family for a nice and sucessful cruise in the country. And you'll know the whole car.
My favorite road side repair kit? Cell phone, credit card and AAA. Haven't had a single breakdown that those three tools couldn't fix.
Have fun! And congratulations on a great find.
AWSOME reply brother... I was going to get around to asking... uhhh.. what now? Heh.. you answered it for me! That was an awsome help and I'm printing it out as I type!
Some of that stuff I'm gonna have to get help on probably... but I'm buying the books. Which books should I get btw.. which are worth the cash? This will be great... I'm gonna also live a dream and learn what the heck I'm doing with a vehicle. I've always wanted to.. but been afraid I'd screw something up... so it's mine... if I screw something up... I'll just try and fix it... if not, one of your "tools" by the name of credit card comes to mind. I bet that will fix it! hehe..
Like I said before I'm pretty excited.
Some of that stuff I'm gonna have to get help on probably... but I'm buying the books. Which books should I get btw.. which are worth the cash? This will be great... I'm gonna also live a dream and learn what the heck I'm doing with a vehicle. I've always wanted to.. but been afraid I'd screw something up... so it's mine... if I screw something up... I'll just try and fix it... if not, one of your "tools" by the name of credit card comes to mind. I bet that will fix it! hehe..
Like I said before I'm pretty excited.
SWEET. It's got some options and all original. My 66 is all original like that, but it's a auto, 289 C code, with no options except the radio, and electric washer pump, if that is even a option. lol


