Driveshaft too long?
67 Coupe
4bbl 289
Conversion from 6
I ordered a custom drive shaft and it seems they made it exactly to specs, not leaving the 3/4' to 1' play needed for axle travel. I could be wrong but I can't get the u joints past the cener bolt in the diff to bolt them on. I really don't want to have to send it back or risk them saying they did everything I asked and refuse to redo it if it's even wrong. What suggestions do you have for geting it on?
Should I try cutting off a bit of the slip yoke? Grind down the bolt on the diff? Try to move the axle back?
4bbl 289
Conversion from 6
I ordered a custom drive shaft and it seems they made it exactly to specs, not leaving the 3/4' to 1' play needed for axle travel. I could be wrong but I can't get the u joints past the cener bolt in the diff to bolt them on. I really don't want to have to send it back or risk them saying they did everything I asked and refuse to redo it if it's even wrong. What suggestions do you have for geting it on?
Should I try cutting off a bit of the slip yoke? Grind down the bolt on the diff? Try to move the axle back?
Jack up the car to stretch the suspension out. That should give you a decent bit of room. Once you get it in, make sure you have room for travel. If there is not room you risk bending it up.
I jacked the carrier up and down by itself with no luck but the car was on the ground. Will it make a difference if the car moves but not the axle?
I'll check on the yoke length, thanks. Would rather find one localy to save time but couldn't months ago when that was all I thought I needed.
I'll check on the yoke length, thanks. Would rather find one localy to save time but couldn't months ago when that was all I thought I needed.
if you jack the rear end of the car up the diff will fall a few inches from the normal sitting position giving you a little more room to try and squeeze the shaft in. plus like ttoney said you can get another yolk legnth, they may not have sent you the correct part, happens all the time with this sort of thing.
If you can't get the drive shaft in you should not be using that shaft. You will have nothing but problems with it. If you slide the yoke into the trans and you can't see any of the machined suface of the yoke then it is the right yoke. In other works the knuckle of the yoke should be right up to the trans seal. If it does that and you can't get the shaft to mate up to the differential your shaft is too long and you will need a different shaft of have that one cut down.
I got the shaft on and tested the travel of he axle. All is well. Seems the slip yoke was not going in all the way.
A the behest of the shaft maker I put in my old worn one and hammered it all the way in to remove any possible burrs. No idea what could've kept it from going in that last inch. I hope the pounding didin't damage the tranny.
Thanks for your advice!
A the behest of the shaft maker I put in my old worn one and hammered it all the way in to remove any possible burrs. No idea what could've kept it from going in that last inch. I hope the pounding didin't damage the tranny.
Thanks for your advice!
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