I'm scrambling to finish up the external restoration of the 289 engine in my 66' GT convertible and have a few questions.

1. I'm converting the engine to a K-code and have the correct exhaust manifolds/H-tube, harmonic balancer, crank counterweight, 4V intake manifold and carb, and dual-point distributor without a vacuum advance. I decided to replace the camshaft as well, and ultimately after much soul-searching elected to go with a solid-lifter "LeMans" camshaft from Mustang Barn. This is slightly stronger than an original 289 HP solid-lifter cam. The engine has the standard valvetrain including pressed-in rocker studs, and stock valvesprings. The heads are NOT HP heads so they do not have valve spring cut-outs. Here's the question. When I slip this cam into the motor, does anyone think I'm going to have a problem with valve spring bind, valve-to-piston contact, or pull out one of the rocker studs due to the increased lift? This car is NOT going to be raced, but will be driven around town and DRIVEN to car shows (I hate to see trailer queens). It will rarely ever see an RPM above 4000. Maximum annual mileage will be less than 1000 miles. Should I replace the rocker studs with screw-in studs, or replace the valve springs, or tear off the heads and use modelling clay to check valve-to-piston clearance? Or do you all think I'll probably be OK to finish the rebuild (down to the cam only) and drive this thing around town.

2. Using my restoration literature, I can't seem to find out what color the air cleaner base should be for a 66' HP engine. I've got the correct air filter element, and a chrome lid, but some books say the base should be gold, and others say it should be ford blue. It is currently plain steel. Any ideas?


Many thanks for the help,

Tom
Bryson City, NC

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Well I tell you I have a HiPo 289...I can tell you Ford designed the heads with screw in studs and spring cups for a reason...I would spend the extra money and go with a set of HiPo heads.....Did you up grade the rods to the 3/8 inch rod bolt too? also did you get the littel countr balance behind the timing cover?

 

In 1966 the Base is Blue, 1965 It was Gold!

 

Thanks for confirming the blue air cleaner base.

My inital post mentioned the crank counterweight, it also states the rebuild was down to the cam only. I do not plan to replace the rods at this time. The stock 5/16" rods are just fine for driving, and I have yet to hear of ANYONE RACING with a 289 who broke a 5/16" rod bolt. As for the heads, yea, I'm considering the upgrade to the HP heads, but I'm on a tight timeline and need to have this engine together and finished by June 6th.

Tom

 

Anyone else care to share their opinion?

 

Sure...
IMO, the first time you get around a bunch of other testosterone ladden gear heads, you're gonna wrap that puppy up well past 4K and eventually do some damage. There is just something about us males that allows the libido to over come common sense.
Let's face it, these cars are just to darned much fun to be that incredibly responsible.

You also did not mention whether your pistons are flycut or not, whether or not your block has been decked, or your heads milled. You may want to toss down some clay on the piston tops just to be safe.

"I ever tell you about the time..."

 

Just to confirm the air cleaner color, the 65 was the only year to use the gold. The 66 was corporate blue.

 

Pistons, not sure. The engine only has about 4000 miles on a complete rebuild, so I didn't even pull the heads off. I can try to peek down the spark plug holes to see if they have cutouts. I bought the car last fall. No idea if the deck was milled when rebuilt.

I know I SHOULD check the clearance, but hoping to find someone who's installed a similar lift cam and had no problems. Of course I'll turn it over by hand first to see if there's any hint of binding after installing the first 2 lifters and adjusting them. No point in installing them all to find out I need to tear it apart again. You know, I could try one of those small portable boroscopes down the spark plug hole as I crank it over by hand to check the clearances. That might work. I'll probably replace the valve springs and install screw-in rocker studs eventually so I can push it past 4000, but the car is pretty much my wifes, and unless I'm driving it, it'll never even see 3000rpms.

Tom

 

Yeah, "most" women are pretty responsible that way. However, I'd highly suggest you do not **** her off under any circumstances. Scorn is much stronger than testosterone

And don't "borrow the car to take your buddies for a ride". That's instant disaster. Kind of like "what's a rednecks last words?"... "Hey ya'll watch this!".

Scott

 

I painted to air cleaner base to match the engine.

as for the Cam, I've decided to install 1 set of lifters, then adjust the valve lash and spin it over slowly and check the valve springs for binding or near-full compression. If none, then I'll try to borrow a flexible boroscope and peek down the spark plug hole and check for piston-to-valve clearance as I crank it over by hand. If I have at least 1/8" clearance, I'll finish the assembly, then cross my fingers as I crank it up.

Tha nks for the suggestions.

Tom
Brysoni City, NC