Upper Control Arm Relocation?
I have been toying with this modification idea. I am going to be replacing my entire suspension with fairly stock components (better springs, shocks, lowering, etc.). Something I am considering doing is the relocation of the upper control arms. How many of you have done this? How would you rate the improvement to handling? What are the cons of this mod besides tire clearance?
I have done the relocation on my 66 (different template to 67 I belive) The biggest bonus I found is that when doing a sharp RH turn, my front left tire doesn't scrape on the fender anymore. I guess this is due to the increae negative camber the wheel sees during suspension movement. General handling also seems to have improved, however I did fit the export brace at the same time, so I not exactly sure whether its the brace or teh drop that has had more impact.
I do know that by doing the drop the front of my car sits about 1/2" to 3/4" lower, and combined with the slightly sagging rear end, has levelled out the car nicely.
The only negatives I've HEARD of are premature ball joint wear (I have not yet experinced this) and the fact that you are drilling two extra holes into the shock tower.(hard to hide if you ever wanted to do a concourse resto)
I say go for it.
I do know that by doing the drop the front of my car sits about 1/2" to 3/4" lower, and combined with the slightly sagging rear end, has levelled out the car nicely.
The only negatives I've HEARD of are premature ball joint wear (I have not yet experinced this) and the fact that you are drilling two extra holes into the shock tower.(hard to hide if you ever wanted to do a concourse resto)
I say go for it.
Great input. I have heard the thoughts about the balljoint stress, but there is a good article in the 2006 Branda catalog by Jeff Burgy. Jeff wrote about the origin of this modification...from Ford suspension engineer Klaus Arning in support of the 427 Cobra and GT40 when Ford was toying with a four-link IRS (that was shelved). Shelby took the mod and ran with it on his 65-66 mustangs. Basically, Jeff asserts that there are no issues with the modification. I just wanted to hear if anyone encountered problems.
Btw, there is a template and detailed instructions on performing this mod in the 2006 Branda catalog.
Btw, there is a template and detailed instructions on performing this mod in the 2006 Branda catalog.
I've done this mod to my '66 coupe and its one of the best upgrades (and its FREE) that one can do to their car.
You'll have more grip and use less shims to achive good alignment specs, both very important to someone who wants a good handling Mustang.
Never noticed any issue from increased wear on the ball joint, but if I did it would be from taking corners a lot faster because I can!
You'll have more grip and use less shims to achive good alignment specs, both very important to someone who wants a good handling Mustang.
Never noticed any issue from increased wear on the ball joint, but if I did it would be from taking corners a lot faster because I can!
ORIGINAL: 2bav8
I've done this mod to my '66 coupe and its one of the best upgrades (and its FREE) that one can do to their car.
You'll have more grip and use less shims to achive good alignment specs, both very important to someone who wants a good handling Mustang.
Never noticed any issue from increased wear on the ball joint, but if I did it would be from taking corners a lot faster because I can!
I've done this mod to my '66 coupe and its one of the best upgrades (and its FREE) that one can do to their car.
You'll have more grip and use less shims to achive good alignment specs, both very important to someone who wants a good handling Mustang.
Never noticed any issue from increased wear on the ball joint, but if I did it would be from taking corners a lot faster because I can!
they make a kit called the negative wedge it has improved geometry over just the drop and comes with a ball joint to eliminate that problem
ORIGINAL: 2bav8
Negative wedge kit is also about the biggest waste of money one can spend on their Mustang.
Many other options will provide better results.
Negative wedge kit is also about the biggest waste of money one can spend on their Mustang.
Many other options will provide better results.
I'm not looking for state of the art. I just want to replace what I have with something that works. The original suspension was fine in '67 and improved with some minor tweaks. I drove my car for 8 years on 15-20 year old suspension and it handled fine. Granted, IFS/IRS is better, I am not trying to race or compete with people who have MMTB. There is no reason to drop $15k on suspension for a run-of-the-mill coupe.
Besides, Shelby raced on this crappy suspension and did quite well (albeit with some minor alterations).
Besides, Shelby raced on this crappy suspension and did quite well (albeit with some minor alterations).
ORIGINAL: Clu7ch
you want top of the line aftermarket upgraded suspension (front and rear coilover) you can look at an easy 7-10K. it will handel better than damn near every car out there, but is not really a necessity. a simple Grab-a-trac kit from mustangsplus will do ya good. and they're just a few hundred
you want top of the line aftermarket upgraded suspension (front and rear coilover) you can look at an easy 7-10K. it will handel better than damn near every car out there, but is not really a necessity. a simple Grab-a-trac kit from mustangsplus will do ya good. and they're just a few hundred
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