k well i just ordered some tri-y's from mustang depot and finally gonna get rid of that annoying blown donut gasket seal sound. ne way i decided to do it myself since i didnt think it would b too hard and the local guys are gonna be around $400 in labor (screw that). so just wondering what ill need. its original manifold (duels). the bolts are pretty rusted on there so i know ill need a torq wrench (and hope i dont break a bolt). i know im gonna have to undo that motor mounts (which ive never done) and put it on a jack so i can fit a wrench in there. so how would i go about undoing the motor mounts and where should i jack the engine up at....i know not the oil pan but im not sure where else.

just need so find someone that wants to do a little welding for my exhaust now....

-thanks

 

go out get a bottle or two of Deep Creep and spry down your bolts reall good. let it set in for about an hour or so than spray it donw one more time and let it set up again. than go out with a breaker bar and carefully break and remove the bolts. i broke most of the bolts off of my 200 head and now have to drill and tap them. []

 

ya just hoping i dont have to do that

 

when i do headers or any exhaust work i always spay lube on the bolts and let it set for approx 5 minutes and then tighten them in alittle that will help break the rust that is around them then VERY SLOWLY without any air tools start to remove them if you feel it get tight spray some more lube on the bolts and tighten them back down to get the lube in the threads and then repeat the process untill they come out. drilling and tapping the block is not fun at all and is kinda hard also. GOOD LUCK

 

yeah, SHR's idea sounds good too. i always let the spray breaker set in for about 30 or 60 minutes and hit it with another shot (with the exception of when i remover the header bolts from my head). i used to use PB blaster and a friend reccommended deep creep and it seems to work a bit better.

 

one more thing to try on old bolts is to spray on the creep and then use a punch and hammer to tap the bolt head a number of times, this gives it a vibration that will help break loose the rust.

 

now why couldn't i have found this site before i decided to take my exhaust manifold off? [&:]

i coulda still had the beast on the road!

 

Just removed my orignal manifolds and the nuts at the rear were frozen but good. I repeatedly sprayed them with PB Blaster for a week and still the would not budge. What I finally did was get my Benzo torch and heat the manifold around the stud but good. The whole stud then backed out nice and easy. (be careful to wipe away excess penetrating oil, as it is typically nice and flamable) The bolts into the block were pretty easy after letting them sit over night with the blaster. Also, I agree with the tapping the bolts thing as well. Don't go crazy, just a pew solid taps.

Good luck.

 

First you have to take out the engine mount bolts. There are two per side. You'll find them pretty easy once you get under the car with a light. Once you get the bolts out, they are pretty short bolts, you can use your hydraulic jack and a 2x4 to jack up on the edge of the oil pan.

Thats what I did but I also put a 2x4 across the bottom of the oil pan (so the pressure would be distributed more evenly instead of on a small area.) and jacked the engine up there. Didnt dent the oil pan at all.

 

thanks for the info guys, got some penetrating oil on it tonight and c how it goes