Get the finest toothed blade you can. The bolt is hardened too.

 

maybe i should have saved some of our fireworks for ya. i bet enough of them in there and it come out like i hot knife thru butter.

 

Not slim at all. That's how I got mine off. You have to put the jack stands under the axle on both sides of the pumpkin, and get the car high enough so you can sit on your butt and get a straight shot at the bolt.

 

Soaring, I have done this and if the bushing is at a point were you can get the saws all on the bolt alone, you will be fine however if its on the bushing you will sit there all day. The bushing is hardened and you MUST use a cut off wheel. SOOOOO, be prepared to use a cut off wheel..

 

I guess there are more ways to skin a cat than one, but seems like I remember you saying that it took a long time to do it your way. It took me about 30 minutes to cut mine out. That's with a good recip saw and some good blades. I have even heard of guys using a cutting torch to get it out. I guess that would work too, but run into danger of setting something on fire other than the spring. And, that rubber bushing burning would create a lot of smoke and heat.

 

THATS why it took so long. I kept using the saws all not knowing I was trying to cut into the hardened bushing that the bolt goes into. It was a total waste of time, then I went to the cut off saw, end of problem, DONE..

 

I used a cutoff wheel. It really helped to have another set of hands to torque the spring to the side to give you enough room to operate. After spending hours on the first one trying everything that didn't work, it ended up taking 10 minutes on the second one with the cutoff.

 

I just removed all of my rear end but the passenger bolt and nut and the driver bolt. I need to get those off tomorrow so I can get my new springs in there. Hopefully mine wont be stubborn though, because my subframe connectors give me little room to work.

If you cut the bolt off, wouldnt the shaft still be stuck in the hole?

 

No, not if you cut the bolt twice from the inside of the hanger. Granted, by using the repro saw method, you can only use the front half of the blade, so you have to get positioned so that you can use arm and shoulder pressure then hang on as it will rattle your teeth. There is enough space between the hanger and the metal shaft because the rubber sticks out beyond the shaft. It also helps to have a few Colorado Kool-aids in your belly before you start. It's a nasty and muscle aching job, no matter what method you use. I hope I never have to do it again.

 

Air power helps alot too...