noob welder question
ok, my dad is going to harbor friehgt tomarrow and he said he will get me a mig welder while he is there. well i dont know too much about welders and i havnt really welded too much, but theres always room for learning. there is a sale going on one welder, 115amps, can weld up to 18 guage metal. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=6271 . i need to weld a small patch on my frame on account of jacking it up wrong from a previous owner, and then patches on my door/floor/wheelwell. do you guys think this welder will be adequate enough or should i look for more power or one that can weld a higher guage metal? thanks in advance for your input.
I think it will be ok. There are alot of people who will say to spend the extra money to get a Lincoln welder. But if you are on a smaller budget, like most of us are, then that one will do the job. The good thing about the one you are looking at is that it is a mig welder and a flux core welder, meaning that you can use flux core wire if you don't have the money to go buy the argon/co2 yet. Flux core welding pruduces more platter and a less pretty bead than mig. IMO mig welding is easier and produces a cleaner job. I have done some of the welding on my car with a flux core, until I started borrowing a mig from friends. I welded front frame rail patches on both front frame rails, where the bumper brackets bolt to, one was done with mig, and one was done with flux core, and they both turned out good.
My point is, IMO that welder will be fine for what you will be doing with it. Sears has a Lincoln mig for $289 if you decide you want to go that route.
My point is, IMO that welder will be fine for what you will be doing with it. Sears has a Lincoln mig for $289 if you decide you want to go that route.
Sure it will do small patches on light metal. When it comes to welders, you really get what you pay for. Some last longer than others, some make nicer welds. A nicer weld means less grinding and heating of the panel and less warpage. Unless you use a high quality welder you wont notice the difference in price. My dad has a 22v Lincoln mig that was almost $2000, I have a 110v Hobart that was flux core with gas capability, after welding with both of them I can see the obvious differences in them. The Lincoln does a better job, but the Hobart still does it.
If you dont plan on restoring a couple of cars, and just want to do some patches, maybe fix a few small things it should work fine. One thing I suggest you do is get a good helmet and gloves. The ones that usually come with them are handheld shields, not a helmet. So you have to use one hand to hold the shield. I like to hold the piece or be able to reposition it at will, so a helmet is a good investment..
A really nice one is an auto darkening one.. try one and you wont want anything else! trust me on that..
Remember, too much heat warps the metal and blows holes through it. Dont lay a bead down sheetmetal unless you want it curved in strange directions..
If you dont plan on restoring a couple of cars, and just want to do some patches, maybe fix a few small things it should work fine. One thing I suggest you do is get a good helmet and gloves. The ones that usually come with them are handheld shields, not a helmet. So you have to use one hand to hold the shield. I like to hold the piece or be able to reposition it at will, so a helmet is a good investment..
A really nice one is an auto darkening one.. try one and you wont want anything else! trust me on that..
Remember, too much heat warps the metal and blows holes through it. Dont lay a bead down sheetmetal unless you want it curved in strange directions..
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
Sure it will do small patches on light metal. When it comes to welders, you really get what you pay for. Some last longer than others, some make nicer welds. A nicer weld means less grinding and heating of the panel and less warpage. Unless you use a high quality welder you wont notice the difference in price. My dad has a 22v Lincoln mig that was almost $2000, I have a 110v Hobart that was flux core with gas capability, after welding with both of them I can see the obvious differences in them. The Lincoln does a better job, but the Hobart still does it.
If you dont plan on restoring a couple of cars, and just want to do some patches, maybe fix a few small things it should work fine. One thing I suggest you do is get a good helmet and gloves. The ones that usually come with them are handheld shields, not a helmet. So you have to use one hand to hold the shield. I like to hold the piece or be able to reposition it at will, so a helmet is a good investment..
A really nice one is an auto darkening one.. try one and you wont want anything else! trust me on that..
Remember, too much heat warps the metal and blows holes through it. Dont lay a bead down sheetmetal unless you want it curved in strange directions..
Sure it will do small patches on light metal. When it comes to welders, you really get what you pay for. Some last longer than others, some make nicer welds. A nicer weld means less grinding and heating of the panel and less warpage. Unless you use a high quality welder you wont notice the difference in price. My dad has a 22v Lincoln mig that was almost $2000, I have a 110v Hobart that was flux core with gas capability, after welding with both of them I can see the obvious differences in them. The Lincoln does a better job, but the Hobart still does it.
If you dont plan on restoring a couple of cars, and just want to do some patches, maybe fix a few small things it should work fine. One thing I suggest you do is get a good helmet and gloves. The ones that usually come with them are handheld shields, not a helmet. So you have to use one hand to hold the shield. I like to hold the piece or be able to reposition it at will, so a helmet is a good investment..
A really nice one is an auto darkening one.. try one and you wont want anything else! trust me on that..
Remember, too much heat warps the metal and blows holes through it. Dont lay a bead down sheetmetal unless you want it curved in strange directions..
Yeah well I dont have a $2k welder either..
And I restore old cars.. The one you are looking at getting should work pretty well for you. it might not last 5 years, but it will do what you need it to do right now.. I would say pick it up and learn how to use it..
And I restore old cars.. The one you are looking at getting should work pretty well for you. it might not last 5 years, but it will do what you need it to do right now.. I would say pick it up and learn how to use it..
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
Yeah well I dont have a $2k welder either..
And I restore old cars.. The one you are looking at getting should work pretty well for you. it might not last 5 years, but it will do what you need it to do right now.. I would say pick it up and learn how to use it..
Yeah well I dont have a $2k welder either..
And I restore old cars.. The one you are looking at getting should work pretty well for you. it might not last 5 years, but it will do what you need it to do right now.. I would say pick it up and learn how to use it..
exactly my plan
get a hobart. they are made by miller with a few cheaper components but they are just as good. they can be bought cheap. Cyberweld.com has the best prices and free shipping. you can get a tank from a welding supply store and usually cost $50 to swap out. better welds and less cost in the long run. check out that site.
I have the Hobart brand. Can't remember the model number, but it runs on 120V and I paid about $650.00 for the welder,cart,helmet,gloves,roll of .025 wire and a full bottle of argon. It will weld up to 1/4" thick steel. It welds great on splicing pieces or running long beads, but I can't get it to spot weld a 1/8" hole. It fills the hole in the outer panel without burning into the one behind it. 3/16" holes it seems to work ok.
The big advantage to getting a 240v model is the longer work cycle. Just for around the house it is hard to justify the extra expense.
The big advantage to getting a 240v model is the longer work cycle. Just for around the house it is hard to justify the extra expense.


