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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 06:49 PM
  #1  
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tylerdru
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Double flaring is not easy![:@] I cant get my cut on the brake line straight, so i am gonna get a file and a metal tube cutter. I have been using my air cut- off tool. The reason I want to flare this my self is because I made some perfect bends on a straight piece with no fittings, and I dont want to attempt such a hard bend again. With school starting I am really feeling pressure to get the stang going.
Old Jul 27, 2006 | 08:18 PM
  #2  
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You definatley need a tubing cutter. Its cuts it really nice and neat. The double flaring is still difficult though, or at least it was for me. I had to do a few before they didnt' leak.
Old Jul 27, 2006 | 08:24 PM
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How long a piece is it Tyler? I bought a pile of brake lines at a parts house auction. They have the ends, i needed them to replumb my master cylinder I think the longest one i have left is 24 inches or so
Old Jul 27, 2006 | 11:43 PM
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tylerdru
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I need probably 12" with two 3/8 ends.
Old Jul 27, 2006 | 11:46 PM
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I proably have those, i wont be home until next weekend and i know you want to get your car running but if you will pm your adress ill send you a couple
Old Jul 27, 2006 | 11:59 PM
  #6  
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tylerdru
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Awww dont worry about it, I can get them cheap at autozone.
Old Jul 28, 2006 | 12:15 AM
  #7  
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Default RE: Flaring...

You should always use a tubing cutter when flaring. You can run into problems with the tubing splitting if you don't.
Old Jul 28, 2006 | 02:47 AM
  #8  
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67t5ponycoupe is exactly right!

If your tubing cutter does not come with instructions, follow these:

1). bring the cutting wheel up snug but not too tight. Make one revolution, and snug it again. Repeat this procedure until the the end come loose by itself. It should not "snap" off. If it does you are putting too much pressure on the cutting wheel. this dulls the wheel and gives you lousy cuts (noted by the amount of deburing you have to do on the squished in end).

2). There should be an arrow shaped piece of steel on the back side of the cutter. This is a reamer. Run it around the inside of the line after cutting to debur the edge.

3). Follow the instructions on your flare kit to the letter! and when you do the second part of the flare, do not overtighten. you want a nice "rolled" look, not a squished look with a sharp ridge.

4). Until you get good at flares on standard metal brake lines, stay away from stainless steel and aluminum tubing. It's tougher to get right.

Good luck with it.

If all else fails, take a coat hanger and make a template of how you want the line bent. Get it as exact as possible. Then go to a professional garage and ask them to bend and flare a line for you.




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