OK,
heres a list of what to look for if you want to do this swap.
You'll need a 91-95 Town Car, Crown Vic, or Grand marqui.

You'll want everything from the axle tube out. This swap will work on the small bearing 8" and 9" rears.. If you want the big bearing stuff look for a Ford Exploder.

I started by removing the rear diff cover. You'll need a 13mm socket for those bolts. You'll see why you need to remove the rear cover later.

Next you have to remove the 8mm bolt that holds in the diff pin. I have no idea what the tech term is for that part. Once the big pin is removed you should be able to push in on the axles and remove the C-clips that hold the axles in.

I then started working on the calipers and everything behind the wheels.
You'll need a T40 Torx to remove the calipers. If you dont know what a torq is please put down the wrench and step away from the car...
This will allow you to remove the calipers from the car.

With the Calipers off the car you should be able to remove the rotors. If you can't make sure the e-brake is off.. Dont ask how I figured this one out.. oops

With the rotors off pull the axles out. Really easy with the C-clips removed. Not like the 8" axles where you'll need a slide hammer to pull them. This also why you removed the rear Diff cover.. See I'm saving some of you some headaches...

You should be able to reomve the E-brake set up now.
First thing I did was use a 10mm socket and remove the ABS sensor from each backing plate/ E-brake set up.

There are 4 bolts per side holding the E-brake set-up to the axle tubes. You'll need a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench to unbolt everything.
Once everything is un-bolted you should have everything you need.

I removed the E-clips and left the E-brake cables with the car. I was tired of laying in the mud and didnt want to crawl back underneith the car to try and unbolt all the brackets that attach the E-brake cables to the car.

Its an interesting system though. the Pass side cable run across the axle and up the drivers side. Making for some very long cables..

I want to try and modify my stock 63 cable with the Crown vic Cable ends and use that for an e-brake.

You'll also need to fab up a spacer ring to properly install these brakes.
You can try and contact the company that sells the kits and see if they will sell just the rings or makes some.. I have a link that explains the swap in more detail for those of you who want it. ask and i'll post it.

Nathan

12. Now we have a problem. Once you slide in the axle you might notice
that the wheel bearing is held between the rear end axle housing inset
and
the retaining plate, but the retaining plate is not up against the
bearing
on the outside, since the disk mounting bracket is thicker than the drum
backing plate. On my car, and probably most others, the new disk brake
mounting bracket is .130" thicker. That means we have to have some
spacer
to put between the axle bearing and retaining plate or the wheels will
slide
in and out .130" every time we take a corner.

Let me rephrase to make sure we're clear. The stock Mustang drums are
held on the axle by a piece of sheet metal that forms the back of the
drum brakes. The Crown Vic disks are held on to the axle by the disk
mounting bracket, and it's made of cast aluminum. The cast aluminum is
thicker than the sheet metal used for the drum brakes, so we'll have to
make up that .130" thickness difference by putting a spacer in there to
keep the bearing solidly wedged in between the axle retaining plate and
the bearing end (where the bearing is supposed to fit inside the axle).

I made one the hard way by slicing the outer race of an old axle bearing
into .130" segments (one for each axle). This makes the spacer the
correct
size and shape. Dimensions aren't that critical, but you don't want the
bearing to slide sideways, so some spacer must be made, and it's best if
the
hole in the spacer doesn't interfere with the seal on the axle bearing,
so
it must be thin, but relatively strong. To slice an old bearing, I
mounted
the axle it was on (from another car) into my vise and used the
pneumatic
cut off tool to cut around the bearing as it slowly rotated. This way
the
thickness was relatively constant. I used calipers to double check
after
finish grinding it on my wheel grinder. This takes a while (about 30
minutes of continuous cutting), because you are cutting a 3/16" thick
slice
of incredibly hard, high grade steel (the bearing). The second slice
takes
less time since the bearing isn't as thick in the middle of the race as
it was near the end. I slowed the bearing as I cut it with an old shop
rag. Beware, this usually results in the shop rag catching fire, since
the sparks hit the rag continuously. Be careful.

13. After the spacer is ground to .13" or very close, which is the
difference in thickness from the old backing plate to the new mounting
plate
(and therefore, the measure of side bearing play), cut a slot in the
spacer
so that it just barely slides over the axle between the bearing and
retaining plate. Or, if you got new axle bearings you could
just install the spacers in between the bearing and axle retaining plate
before you get the bearings pressed on. The notch is just so you can
put it there without taking the bearing off (which would destroy them).

If you used my method and cut the spacer from an old bearing, the spacer
will be easy to place as you slide the axle in the rear end housing
before you put the retaining plate on. Do not bolt the axle in yet. In
fact, take everything off after you have made a mental note of where the
calipers go on each side (they mount on the back side of the disk
towards the trunk on the drivers side, and towards the front of the car
on the passengers side. This was how it was on the Crown Vic, and makes
e-brake cable routing easier).