I have a 65 conv that I just cant figure out the headlights. They were working but all of a sudden both low beams just quit. I clicked the foot dimmer and the high beams came on ......I clicked the dimmer again and nothing. I bought a new dimmer switch but still the same problem. I bought 2 new headlights and still same issue.....high beams work but nothing on the low side. Is there something I can check or is there some fuse I am not aware of? Could this possibly be in the headlight switch? Seems to me that the tail lights and high beams work so power should be working from the switch? Thanks for all your help. Tim

 

I feel pretty sure that the problem lies in you headlight switch. Replace it and all should be fine. I had a simular problem with mine. My lights would go out until the relay cooled then come back on until it heated up again. I bet your relay (with in the switch) is shot.
Hope this helps.

 

Hey noobs. Welcome to the classic section of MF. Replace the headlight switch. And, it's good to see another fellow Texan on here. Nice Avatar.

 

before you try to take out your old switch, buy the new one, and STUDY IT. Take the Plunger in and out a couple times to get a feel how the little button works and what it feels like with your eyes shut. Working behind the dash with your fingers/hands is tough, and if you aren't familiar with it, all you'll end up with is sore hands!! I had the same problem with my lights, and replacing the switch fixed it. Remember, most of this stuff is 30+ years old. Nothing lasts forever!!

 

Thanks for the warm welcome. Heres the next set of questions. I went out and re checked the lights to see if the parking lights came on with the first click of the headlight switch. They do. Get this.....when I pull the switch all the way out the parking lamps up front go out. Go figure? Ok time for a new switch. The next questions is......HOW ? Its too tight for me to monkey upside down with the back of my head on the brake pedal. Can or should I remove the speedo/gauge cluster? will I need to remove the speedo cable first? will I have enough room to slide my big fingers in there and remove this switch? from the top....or from the bottom? Ill get the switch in the morning and check back later in the day for the best way to do the R&R.
Thanks for all your help. Tim

Soaring: I was curious if you did R/C or real?

 

This fellow Texan wants to Welcome you guys! I stripped my stang and since i took the cluster out i can reach everything pretty good but I havent taken out the HL switch yet. You might need a special Tool.

 

looks like there are quite a few texans here, although I'm missplaced out here in idaho. Anyhow, when I replaced the switch on my 67 I took out the instrument pannel to get me a clear shot of the switch, not sure if it'll help in a 65.

If the switch and bezel are similar you shouldn't need a special tool. I used the biggest damned flat head screwdriver I could find, and so I wouldn't strip the soft bezel I shoved a wash cloth in there too. Grabed the switch and started turning.

 

The park lights are supposed to go out when the headlights come on. That didn't change until 70. Before you pull the switch, unplug the headlight harness from the car harness and tak a little wire brush and clean both sides of that connector.

 

OK I got the new switch, bought a book.....started reading, and it says to look for the inspection hole under the dash....so I can depress the button on the old switch to remove the **** and shaft. This looks to be a no brainer. Only problem is......from looking at the left going right the first switch isnt the headlight? its the wiper/washer switch. Not the headlight. Grrrrrr the lil hole is directly under the wrong switch? Now this car had a new facelift/paint job inside and out 20 years ago. all the dash was apart. Possibly did my father put them in backwards? LOL also how do I find out exactly when my car was built? they say theres 2 switches for diffrent times of the year the car was built? Heres something I found at another site:

HEADLIGHT SWITCH (1964 - 5/31/65)- these for the early mustangs (before 5/31/65) are pricey....the good thing is that they are identical to a 1962-4 ford truck switch! The dimmer does not function on these....but for $10.95, who cares? Check the price on an ORIGINAL switch from on the the mustang houses, and ask yourself where the extra $40 is going?

Thanks for all your help. This car has been in the family since new and was just passed down to my 17 yo daughter. Been in a garage under a tarp for the last 20 years, and I need to work the kinks out.
Next topic is convertable top hydro top off and bleeding

Later Gator Tim

 

I don't remember any holes under the switches, but I was able to get my hand behind the dash pretty easily to grip the switch body. Remove push-pull switch handle by pushing on the spring-loaded button. It should be on the right side of the switch body (passenger side) unless the unit has rotated some. Then like grumminator said, put a screw driver on the slot in the bezel and unscrew it while holding the switch body behind the dash. Once it's loose, it unscrews easily by hand. I put off this task for a month and then it ended up being the easiest fix I had to make. On the replacement, the switch handle just slips back in and clicks into place.

If the car has been in the family since new, you're one of the few on the forum who can say that. We had a post on that a while back.