I've heard of doohickie or duehicke (if you're french) but what the heck is a dohicky? [8D]

 

I'll learn to speak Spanish before I ever use that word. I have many manuals here and know many mechanics, never seen or heard the word before here.

 

I already speak Spanish.

 

A dohicky is toward the front, while a doohickie is more toward the top. (Don't ask about the back or bottom...)

 

OK so my dad and I are getting ready to start our rebuilt 351w for the first time. What exactly is priming hte engine? Is it necessary? Any links on information?

Also info on static timing would be appreciated as well. I want our start up to be smooth and virtually problem free.

And BTW, Mach1musle, I love your website! I think your work is amazing. I looked through it for like an hour and it motivated me to get off my *** and work on my car, got the brakebooster, master cylinder, and all the brake lines connected that day! Thanks a lot for your very informative website, keep at it. And good luck finishing up your project, looks like you're starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel!

 

[sm=lol.gif]

 

Priming the engine is basically running the oil pump for a peroid of time to circulate oil through the engine. This can prevent damage to the bearings and other parts during start-up. If you do not prime the engine prior to start-up there will be a period of time the bearings will not be oiled while the pump primes and pushes oil up the engine. Some people do it, some don't. I am not sure about a 351W, But on my 351C the oil pump is driven from the distributor, so I removed the drive gear off an old distributor. When it is installed in the engine I can attach a drill to the top of the distributor shaft and run the oil pump.

To static time the engine, turn the engine to TDC after the intake stroke (you will see the #1 intake valve close just before TDC), then install the distributor with the rotor pointing at the #1 position on the distributor cap.

Glad you like the website. It has been 17 months now since I started this project and I think I have another 6 months to go. I have been slacking lately and need to get motivated also. I just hate waiting for parts that are on backorder. Throws off the whole schedule.

J

 

When I overhaul an engine, I simply smear a light coating of grease on the bearings when I put them in. It not only helps to keep them in place while putting the rods on, it also protects them at start-up. If you have a decent oil pump, it only takes a second for the oil to circulate and protect the engine parts at start-up. I am usually **** retentive about a lot of things regarding cars, but not that. If you feel that circulating the oil with a drill at the DISTRIBUTOR () is necessary, then by all means go ahead and do it.

 

Common knowlege tells us to use a quality engine assembly lube on all bearing surfaces during the assembly process, not just grease. Dry starts are the leading cause of premature engine failure. I recommend priming while slowly turning the engine with a wrench at the front of pulley or the flywheel. Continue with this procedure until oil pressure is indicated on the oil pressure gauge and oil is present at all the rocker arms. Dry starting an engine can cause damage in as little as 20 seconds. Check for oil leaks at this time. I think priming an engine prior to startup is standard proceedure, not a task reserved for those **** retentive individuals, even though I have been called that many times. It only takes a few minutes to complete. I am thinking this is the time not to take short cuts.


Hi-jack.........
Soaring: What mods did you do to your T-3650 to beef it up? Why the heavy duty clutch? With the shifter, air filter and 4:10 gear mods, the factory setup should be more than enough. I have all of those mods (except I have 4:30 gears and 31 spline axels), exhaust, Diablo sport programmer(dyno tuned), 315 drag radials and I have had no trans problems. Hard launches at the track, no clutch slippage, nothing. Did your tranny go south requiring you to replace it? How did you adjust your speedo gear after the gear install without a programmer? Just curious.

 

From the day I bought it until I got it fixed, I would hit a wall when trying to shift from 2nd to 3rd at any RPM over 5K. I took it back to the dealer, and the mechanic drove it and agreed that it had a problem. So, that is when he put the Steeda Tri-X shifter and heavy duty clutch in it. That helped some, but not completely. About a month later, the dealer called me and said he had an update from Ford for the tranny. At that time, they replaced all the syncronizers with heavy duty ones. That fixed it. So now, when I shift from 2nd to 3rd at any RPM over 5K I just slap the Tri-X straight up. The K&N is supposed to be a better air filter than the stock one. Supposedly it adds a few ponies and filters better. I am not real happy with the 410 gears, so I will probably go back to the 355's.