starting problems URGENT!!!
ok im moving in a few days and i need help i have a new starter, and starter solenoid. I have checked the grounds and the wireing several time and it wont crank at all. im not even getting the clicking formt he solenoid. any idea, suggestions. the car is a 1967 MUSTANG WITH A 73 351 CLEVELAND IN IT AND THE COIL SIRE IS ATTACHED TP WHERE ITS SUPPOSED TO BE FOR 67.
It's your wiring. Unless it is new. Everything that is wrong with my 1965 coupe is wiring. Except operation. That is definately a human error!!!! I have a factory four speed, eight cycliner, two barrel carb. I have drove a stick all my life, but everytime I get behind the wheel of this car, I feel like I am lacking the skills to drive it properly.
BUT- I'd check your wiring.
Chelle
BUT- I'd check your wiring.
Chelle
It sound like it maybe your starter solenoid.Get you pilers and touch the wire from your battery and you wire going to your starter. that should turn the starter over for you. Make SURE it out of gear!!!!! It could be anything that makes your starter solenoid engage. Try not to get fried.
Doing that does not eliminate the starter solenoid from being bad, although it is possible still. Here's what you do:
The starter only gets power from the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid always has power going to it from the battery and of course has the thick wire on the other end going to the starter. Internally, however, the battery and starter are not connected through the solenoid unless there is power to the switched (s) side of the solenoid. When you turn the key into the start position, your ignition switch (under the dash right under the steering column usually - maybe different on that old ride of yours not sure just look around, may be right of the key switch) will send power to the (s) side of the solenoid - tripping the relay inside to send power to your starter.
So, to sum it up, you need to check to be sure you are getting 12v to the (s) post on your starter soleniod when you try to crank the car. If you are getting power there, then (in order of likelyhood) your solenoid, starter, battery cables, etc. may be bad. You can eliminate the starter from being bad if you jump the posts on the solenoid to bypass itself and the ignition system and battery cables. If the starter turns when the solenoid is bypassed, and your getting 12v to the (s) post - your solenoid is bad. If your not getting 12v at all to that post, then your ignition switch or key switch or something in between (usually a lever or they may actually be together) is bad.
Now go find your problem! There is nothing more involved in the starter system, the buck stops somewhere in here.
The starter only gets power from the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid always has power going to it from the battery and of course has the thick wire on the other end going to the starter. Internally, however, the battery and starter are not connected through the solenoid unless there is power to the switched (s) side of the solenoid. When you turn the key into the start position, your ignition switch (under the dash right under the steering column usually - maybe different on that old ride of yours not sure just look around, may be right of the key switch) will send power to the (s) side of the solenoid - tripping the relay inside to send power to your starter.
So, to sum it up, you need to check to be sure you are getting 12v to the (s) post on your starter soleniod when you try to crank the car. If you are getting power there, then (in order of likelyhood) your solenoid, starter, battery cables, etc. may be bad. You can eliminate the starter from being bad if you jump the posts on the solenoid to bypass itself and the ignition system and battery cables. If the starter turns when the solenoid is bypassed, and your getting 12v to the (s) post - your solenoid is bad. If your not getting 12v at all to that post, then your ignition switch or key switch or something in between (usually a lever or they may actually be together) is bad.
Now go find your problem! There is nothing more involved in the starter system, the buck stops somewhere in here.
Lets see here...facts...you got a new starter and solenoid, right? Installed them, no go, no clicky. Now, you got a 73 cleveland in a 67. You never mentioned if they were a stick or an automatic. My 73 had a ton of wires under the dash. Looked like a tangled mass of speggetti to me. Do you have a clutch safety switch? Meaning the clutch has to be engaged to start the car. One thing more to check which is very importent, is your body to ground wire. I forgot mine once and had some very strange things going on with my car. Are you using the 73 Brain for ignition? If you are, I'm sure you may want to recheck your wiring. The problem lies in the transplant. Something didn't get connected, or if it did, it got connected to the wrong place. As stated above, try shorting the solenoid. If it does start or turn the engine over, trace wires back from there.
ok i figured it out it turned out that the ground for the starter wasnt quite there but it turns now. now i have a stupid question. since i was doing this quickly i was taking stuff off with out looking at where they went. the coolant passage that is coming out of the top passenger side of the water pump, where does it go to. I am pretty sure there is no coolant in the intake as in a windsor.
Unless you got some kind of new manifold, there is water going thru the intake. Where is your goosneck that goes to the top rad? Your thermostat is in the goosneck. There should also be another water port beside the goosneck somewhere. That one gots to the heater. The other one goes to the water pump. I'll bet the heater hose port got removed for some reason or another.
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