Fun with Iron oxide
12-06-2006, 01:47 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 460
Fun with Iron oxide
What is the recommended way and how hard is it to remove rusted Torque boxes, front frame rails and lower reinforcement panels and replace them? I'm sure there is more under there that needs replacing also. Thanks all. I read your other responces and am in awe by all the infomation you people know on these cars.
12-06-2006, 03:33 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 622
RE: Fun with Iron oxide
Check the FAQ section. There is some good stuff on rust repair. However, What you are talking about is major surgery. You will need to ensure that the body stays alligned and have the correct unit body measurements to double check. Others here have done such extensive repairs, but it is not for the faint of heart, or the novice.
12-06-2006, 04:18 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 460
RE: Fun with Iron oxide
OK. Well being that I wouldn't even consider myself a novice. (more of a beginner) and that your responses scared the hell out of me, I will ask a follow up questions. Are any of the three capable of replacing without the hand of God helping me? If not, I will just coat the suckers with about three cans of rust preventative spray. Thanks again.
12-06-2006, 04:31 PM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marquette Mi
Posts: 3,566
RE: Fun with Iron oxide
That isnt easy to do, you are talking replacement of the entire front end. Do a search on the name C130nav, he is dealing with the same thing right now on a 67.
If you want to do it, you have a place it can sit for months while the work is being done, and you have the skills to do the job (welding, fabrication, bodywork) then the best suggestion from me would be to do one side, then the other. Rail first, torque box second and use the shocktower and spash apron as a guide along with the other frame rail.
Before you cut anything, measure everything, how far apart the rails are, where they connect to each piece, get them level before you remove them and make them level going back in. it has to be perfect, because your front suspension attaches to it, so if one rail is just 1/16" off to the left at the rear and an 1/8" off to the right at the front, you have a car that cant be aligned properly, if at all.
If you are into yard art like a camaro on blocks infront of a mobile home, or maybe Carhenge out west, then it doesnt matter. If you want to drive the car, it matters ALOT.
Having cars that are getting MAJOR rust repair, almost all of them I am currently doing need floors, quarters, and often a full outer skin, but if it needs extensive frame rail repair, it becomes a parts car to me.
If the rest of it is really nice, its a V8 car, and you have the room, skills, etc, then sure. Give it a try. If you have never welded before, live in an apartment, or only have a carport and not at least a one car garage (with plenty of storage space inside the house and an understanding spouse) dont try it. Find a different car, or take it to a shop and have them do the frame rails and surrounding areas.
For me to do all of that work, it would be somewhere between $5k and $15k just for the labor involved. and I work CHEAP. That doesnt include the rest of the car, just getting the front end back to where it should be with all new parts. Makes me happy I dont do this for a living...
If you want to do it, you have a place it can sit for months while the work is being done, and you have the skills to do the job (welding, fabrication, bodywork) then the best suggestion from me would be to do one side, then the other. Rail first, torque box second and use the shocktower and spash apron as a guide along with the other frame rail.
Before you cut anything, measure everything, how far apart the rails are, where they connect to each piece, get them level before you remove them and make them level going back in. it has to be perfect, because your front suspension attaches to it, so if one rail is just 1/16" off to the left at the rear and an 1/8" off to the right at the front, you have a car that cant be aligned properly, if at all.
If you are into yard art like a camaro on blocks infront of a mobile home, or maybe Carhenge out west, then it doesnt matter. If you want to drive the car, it matters ALOT.
Having cars that are getting MAJOR rust repair, almost all of them I am currently doing need floors, quarters, and often a full outer skin, but if it needs extensive frame rail repair, it becomes a parts car to me.
If the rest of it is really nice, its a V8 car, and you have the room, skills, etc, then sure. Give it a try. If you have never welded before, live in an apartment, or only have a carport and not at least a one car garage (with plenty of storage space inside the house and an understanding spouse) dont try it. Find a different car, or take it to a shop and have them do the frame rails and surrounding areas.
For me to do all of that work, it would be somewhere between $5k and $15k just for the labor involved. and I work CHEAP. That doesnt include the rest of the car, just getting the front end back to where it should be with all new parts. Makes me happy I dont do this for a living...
12-06-2006, 05:08 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 460
RE: Fun with Iron oxide
Thanks POD. I will do as Superman said and take pictures when I get home. It might not be as bad as I'm making it out to be, but then again, it may be way worse and you'll see the pictures and tell me I have a nice 'parts' car. Either way, I thank everyone for there help.
