I've been slacking lately on the old girl, but will soon replace all of the suspension parts and hardware, and some other goodies. I'd just like to make sure I've got all the things I should need before I start the project, that way I dont get stuck. Here's what Ive already bought...

Rear:
5 leaf mideye springs
KYB Gas-Adjust shocks
3/4 sway bar
New bolts,bushings, shackles, etc...

Front:
620lb -1" springs
KYB Gas-Adjust shocks
1" sway bar
New LCA,UCA, spring saddles,
New bolts, bushings, etc...

Others:
Weld-in Subframe connectors
Export Brace

Considering:
Carlo Bar
New shock tower caps
roller spring perches
New strut bars and shock anchor plate(mine arent pretty and I have OCD on things like that)

Anything suggestion or advice would be greatly appreciated!
Nic

 

I had to add 1" lowering blocks to the rear of mine after adding the goodies you have listed ('71...can't remember what you have). I didn't want the rear in the air look.

 

The mideye springs are roughly 1 1/2 drop, so if anything, it will be lower than the front, correct?

Its a 67coupe w/ 351W btw...

 

My '71 sat pretty low to begin with, and they already had a rear high rake. The '65-'68 had a rear down stance, so you may have that to contend with.

 

So 64-68 butt down, 69-73 butt up?

 

Might want new U bolts for the leafs if u didnt buy any. I would inspect the shock plate, mine were cracked.

Also while the front end is apart i would check out the ball joints and tie rod ends make sure they are good to go

 

All the necessary hardware came with the kit I bought, so bolts are no problem. I am thinking of getting the bolts and shackles powder coated though, so they dont rust and creat the same problem they all do.

My steering is all brand new, so that good to go

 

Might want to consider a softer shock for the rear.
Might find grip hard to find.

I would suggest doing the 1" upper control arm drop for better suspension geometery.
Roller spring perches & strut rods with heim joint also make big improvements.

Definitely recommend a Monte Carlo bar and export brace.
Subframe connectors might a nice improvement as well.

 

Sounds like a pretty complete list. My only recomendation right now would be to do the "Shelby drop" when installing the UCA's. This will improve your camber curve and go a long way to solve the understeer problem the early stangs are known for. The best part is this is a free modification you can do your self. This will also lower the front of the car some.


If you are not familiar with what I am talkin about this is one of the mods Shelby did to the Mustangs to help their handling. He simply drilled new mounting holes in the inner fender 1 inch lower than stock for the UCA to improve the camber curve. There are free drawings and templates all over the internet to show exactly where to drill the holes for your specific year model. If you get a UCA with a modified ball joint angle you can drop the mounting holes more than 1 inch for an even better camber curve. With stock UCA's you are limited to a 1 inch drop or the ball joint will bind.

 

You will find that the 5 leaf rear springs will be quite stiff, and you will be getting head jolts when you go over bumps. The KYB's are not the stiffest shock you can get, so you are good to go there. The mid eye should lower it some, but the reverse eye will lower it more. I like the look of a classic Mustang that is stock from the factory, and the standard eye gives that look.