Well finally after much waiting, and purchasing of proper tools we got the floor in today for a test fit. And what'd ya know, it doesn't fit correct at all. Theres small gaps up front towards the rear and in the corners. Where it does fit, it leaves bigger gaps up front. So we got some sheetmetal screws and screwed it in where we decided it was properly fitting: tranny hump and in the rear corners (after we cut small lips off). Now the problem remains up front. My biggest concern is the transmission hump will not be lined up right, so when I get around to redoing the inside/reassembling everything will be cockeyed or too far up front and the seats won't be in properly. This is all frustrating. We forgot to jack the car up and support the frame from the underside, so I am worried the frame got tweaked somehow since nothing fits correctly. 67 coupe stripped down and were replacing the entire floor.

-Removed everything from the car except the tires
-Removed the entire floor
-Got new floor in
-Small gaps everywhere, not close enough on the sides

 

If possible, pictures would help.

 

I just put the one piece in a 71, and from what you are saying you didnt seperate the toeboard and trans hump from the old floor, instead you just cut it at the seam right? The toeboard and hump are flanged so the floor sits on top of them. What you need to do is line it up at the rear, then fill in the front with metal. you can cut patches from an old hood layin around, or if you still have the old floor there section some out that will fit it. The floors are all the same length, the difference is where the frame rails are located under the floor.

Tack weld it in about 4 places per side starting at the rear but leaving the front 1/4 untacked. For the benefit of those who may read this who dont know what a tackweld is, its a small spotweld that is easy to grind off if you dont have the metal in the right place. The floor has a subtle bend in it where the frame rails are, so you need to either lift the car, roll it over, or get under it somehow and while applying pressure to the floorpan above the framerails tack weld it to the frame rails.

in this pic I havent cut the old floor completely from the hump at the seam, but the passenger side still has the flange showing through the rust. it doesnt have to be perfect, just water tight at the joint. Laying a solid weld down sheetmetal isnt easy and it warps the hell out of it if it doesnt blow holes through it. Go with roughly 1"-2" welds spaced about 4"-6" apart, then lay new ones between them after they have cooled, it shouldnt be too tough to make patches for the floor if that is where the gaps are.

If they are on the sides, then I am sorry to tell you your car has been bent from an impact, and a rather heavy one at that. Before going any farther take it to a shop that has a frame machine and get it straight before you do anything. Its easiest to make changes with the floor out, they bend EASY... Just dont try it yourself as it usually takes TONS of pressure to do it right.

Good luck and I hope you have less rust than the 71 did..

[IMG]local://upfiles/14646/FF602A4C4E2948ECAD9B2B621F3A8482.jpg[/IMG]

 

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One thing I discovered while doing the floors in mine was...

You need a square starting point. It can be anywhere realy. I used the section where the rear spring bolted to the frame. It's very solid there and if that's out of square then I have more problems than just floors.

Start there, square up the floors and start tack welding going up both sides. Don't get frustrated here, you're going to have some spots that are not even remotely close. Have a good 1/8" drill bitt and rivit gun handy, you'll want it right there with you. As you encounter places that are not lining up, trim to fit and rivit it in place ( don't weld just yet ). Move forward of the rivit and keep trimming and fitting. As you reach the front fram rails. Don't think you're going to just have it fall in place. We had to use 5/16" stainless shoulder bolts to srew the pan to the frame rails. They were so far out of form, they would not lay down. Once we had everything but the toe kickers rivited in, we welded up to there. Then did our test fit of the seat towers while the other cooled. Then welded the toe kicker parts.

We actualy had pans in hand before we cut. Although we did drill spot welds and cut along the hump, we still had some alignment issues with the new pan. It's just what happens with aftermarket parts.

 

Thanks thumpin, its aggravating now that you said that. It was involved in a front end collision with a tree and possibly something else. We already had it taken to a shop to get the left door post straightened, why I didn't have them check the rest of the car Ill never know. I don't have a factory manual, but if someone does and can look this up ill be grateful. I would post pictures but my sister is the only one with a digi cam, and her memory stick is her soon to be xmas gift. So if I can prolong this the better. My floor was removed at the seams all around, spot welds drilled out first then pry barred the floor out. My dad wants to jack the car up and place on stands but I told him not to cause jacking it up might tweak the frame even further. This is gonna be a pain, our truck has two dead cylinders so we can't really tow and the local body shops don't know wtf their doing with cars. It was obvious the door post was tweaked and the dude wanted $400 to "shim" it back so it lines up, when I took it to the chevy dealer they pulled it back in place for $200. As for the gaps on the side of the car, I think the floor got bent or needs to be flattened somewhat, cause when I applied pressure to the hump and then pulled one side and my dad the other it was able to touch the side of the car. Were gonna play with it further tomorrow unless I can convince him to hold off, or maybe tack weld it in then get it to a shop somehow.

 

Ok so after much phone calling, being on hold, and a feud between me and the NPD supe we think we figured out the problem. My car is stripped down to the bone. With just the tires on it...well we left the leaf springs and shocks on...so I guess that the weight is pushing the tires down which is pulling the car apart. My dad forgot to place the car on jacks/wood/blocks, and I said that was a no no but he assured me it was OK. I shoke my head and said whatever, cause I mean...he is old...he knows older cars...and Im a computer geek. Well the jokes on him! I hope this is the case and everything works out.

 

Well use your compy geekery and post some pics of the gaps. That would help and maybe its something simple..

 

http://gallery.filefront.com/hity645/

I hope that works..

 

Thumpin did you get a chance to look at the pics? Thoughts? We got 8 jack stands. Two on the rear axle, two on the frame rails and two on either side just under the door where the seal plates go the rockers I think. Almost a couple hours afterwards it seemed to be working, the gap is a little smaller and towards the rear of the car theres no gap. But theres still a gap in the front, and around the wheel wells.