ACADIST

Did not want to totally take over the floorpan thread. I am also planning to overlap the new floorplan piece with the hump and toe kick, is this a problem? I know it won't look like a pro did it, but there is a first time for everything.............and a second '67 sitting next to it that will need more work. Also, what is my best bet to keep it steady as I spot weld? I have many sizes of c clamps.

Soaring

I don't see how you could use a C clamp on the floor to weld it. Just tap the front and back with a spot and let that cool. Then the rest will stay in place while you spot all the way around. Then you can fill in with more spots after those cool.

ACADIST

I was thinking of clamping it to the rocker panel and I do have a couple of clamps that will clear the rocker by a few inches

supermanzx9r

i just pop rivet my in and i will weld it in next i cant see where you can use a c clamp anywhere

edawg17

I just finished welding in the floor pans in my 65 coupe and my father's 65 fastback. We did not use c-clamps at all. We did use some sheet metal screws and some bolts, nuts and washers to pull the mating pieces of sheet metal together. We did use welding clamps (mechanically similar to vice grips) to hold the toe board to the frame rails and to the side of the frame. No luck using c-clamps though. Another technique I used to tack in the floor pans in place was to use something to push the two pieces of metal together (in my case a rather large screwdriver), tack weld it, continue to tack weld around the whole thing in this manner, and then coerce the metal between the welds to fit tightly to one another with a hammer.

THUMPIN455

Well, After you tack it in one spot, you can then adjust the patch to the metal, it gives it a fulcrum so to speak. If you are leaving an overlapping section, just put a heavy weight on the patch panel to hold it down as you weld it. I have a bunch of heavy stuff, from spindles and cylinder heads to an anvil, anything that will hold it down firmly will do.

You could also trim around it if you want a smaller overlap.

I suppose if I really need to I can do the floors in the Cougar taking pics of every step and process.. It doesnt need to be warm to do that...

connor90

ive also seen people use big magnets to keep them in place. just an idea

THUMPIN455

That happens to be how I do vertical panels and buttwelds. Speaker magnets and one that came off a cheap magnetic parts tray. Works AWESOME for hanging quarters and doing patches. Good tip Connor! You get 4 points, and a cookie man!

connor90

mmmmmmm...cookie...

ACADIST

I may trim some of the sides but am goimg to leave the full overlap on the toe board, it will be easier than welding a new toe panel and firewall to hide the pinholes since the upper peice of the firewall is solid.