If the magnet is lose that might explain the inconsistancey in spark maybe adjusting the base unit of the ignition unit closer would help u could also have a wobbly dizzy shaft which means that some times the magnet is not triggering the spark. You said that the unit is wired correctly i.e. like the FAQ's so that their is no ballast wire in place as this can cause problems.

 

Looks like the guy who installed it originally didn't bypass the resitor wire. I tested the wire and it appears to have 12v going to it but I'm trying torun a new wire anyways. Problem is I'm not sure where the wire ends. I have a Chilton's but its so general its not much help. I've got a wiring diagram but that doesn't tell me where the wires end up in the dash. There are no pics where the ign wires connect to the switch. The switch slides in and out of a sleeve that is sealed in the steering column. Its not like my 55f250 where it all pops out of the dash and is on the back of the switch.

Where do these wires connect? Where do I run my new wire to?

Thanks again everyone!

 

I found the ignition switch on the upper side of the steering column under the dash, no thanks to Chilton's[:'(].
Can I splice in a new wire here?
Does the pos coil wire run through the fuse block?
Do I need to fuse it?
Nothing else runs on this wire right?

I know a lot of people have looked at this forum, thanks for all the help everyone.
I hope this info will help somone else in the future. I know I'm constantly learning on this project.

 

I replaced the pos wire to the coil with a 12 guage wire spliced into the orig wire about 4 in from the switch on the steering column

no change... still inconsistant spark. A couple of cylinders pop then nothing. No consistant spark on no 1 either

 

There seems to be some vertical play in the dizzy shaft. I can grab the rotor and move it up and down about 1/8" or so...
Is that normal?

 

Tested the coil: as the motor cranked with the newly soldered wire from the ign sw
first there was no spark, then irratic spark, then good spark. Weird... Hooked up the wires and it started and ran great.

Next day opposite. No start. Checked coil spark again. First irratic spark, then no spark? WTF
Pertronix doesn't seem to have Technical Support yet, their site says comming soon. Can't find just the magnet ring.
So do I get a new OE dizzy and try that b/c of vertical play or new Pertronix kit? Both? A billet Pertronix if I'm gonna do both?

 

Just in case anyone were to have similar issues I will post how this all ended. I had determined I was getting irratic spark but not sure if it was the pertronix or the coil. I replaced the Accel coil with an MSD Blaster 2 and away we went.Next time I started it, same problem returned. Got new cap, rotor, wires, and still same problem. Rewired ignition wire to bypass resistance wire, previous owner had not done this, and still no change. After many posts and headaches I decided to get a remanufactured dizzy from Advance Auto... was the best price I could find locally, about $37.Popped it in with points and got a consistant spark but it was weak. Switched out coil with old Accel, no difference. Took back MSD and ordered Pertronix FlameThrower II 0.6 ohm coil (was cheaper too) and ordered a new Ignitor II from The Car Shop Inc on e-bay ($89.95). Put it all in, double checked dizzy was lined up, and turned it over. Pop pop vroom! She was running again. Sounded like heaven to me!

Not sure if it was a bad ignitor II, the magnet ring (which rattled ), or a fluke with the MSD coil and a bad old coil? But now it runs...

 

I am having a pretty similar problem. So you think changing the coil would help? I know the timing is right and the plugs are fine. Everything runs fine it just wont start without messing with the distributer while cranking it. But after it starts and the timing is set back to normal it idles fine.

 

This thread is 7 months old. Just start a new one.