Rear End Question
Hello all,
Tax return time is just around the bend and I'm looking to put about $1,500 of mine into my car. I want to get the rear end checked out and probably farm out the work on it since I don't really have the space or know how to do it myself. My question is, is there any other way to fix a rear end that seems to have some slack in it short of rebuilding the whole thing? I don't want to get taken to the cleaners on a rebuild that I may not need if there is a less expensive option that's just as good.
Whatever I don't spend on that goes into the interior and some work I need to do on the front suspension.
Appreciate the help/advice.
Tax return time is just around the bend and I'm looking to put about $1,500 of mine into my car. I want to get the rear end checked out and probably farm out the work on it since I don't really have the space or know how to do it myself. My question is, is there any other way to fix a rear end that seems to have some slack in it short of rebuilding the whole thing? I don't want to get taken to the cleaners on a rebuild that I may not need if there is a less expensive option that's just as good.
Whatever I don't spend on that goes into the interior and some work I need to do on the front suspension.
Appreciate the help/advice.
sounds like a great time for a gear upgrade, a rebuild kit is relatively inexpensive. new ring and pinion from mustang depot ran me under 200 and a rebuild kit from mustangs unlimited was around 125 plus labor still ran me under 500 if I remember correctly.
I see you have a 68, but what engine, transmission and rear do you currently have in your car? We need that information to determine what you need. We also need to know what you plan to do with the car. Is it going to be stock, a street machine, a drag car, etc.....
289, 4v, c-4 transmission and I have no idea what rearend is in the car. I assume whatever came stock unless the PO changed it at sometime and I doubt that. And, I have no plans to race the car...just regular driving.
OK, good. Now read this and go out to your car and identify the rear. Is it an 8" or is it a 9" rear? Then, tell us why you think your rear end is loose. What are the symptoms?
http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/Fordrears.html
http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/Fordrears.html
Are you getting a loud clunk when you go from reverse to forward? Check U-joints first. If it moves back and forth about a 1/4" that is still close to being okay and would still probably work for a long time. You may just need to have the lash tightened up a bit, a shop will tell you to replace the bearings, and that isnt a bad idea since they are 40 years old. Also places like Currie, Moser, and DTS, sell 3rd members all set up, they run around $900-$1300 for a street setup. All you would need then is replace the axle bearings and seals, put the 3rd member in, fill it and you are done.
O.K. I could get a socket on it, so I guess it's an 8" rear end.
It's kind of hard to describe what it does, but when you're going down the road and let off the accelerator and then get back on it there's a bit of a klunk noise in the rear of the carand then the you can sort feel something that feels like something just engaged or caught hold. That's about the best I can describe it. When going from reverse to forward it goes into gear smoothly, but park to reverse is kind of harsh. It goes into gear pretty hard. My idle was a little high and I brought that down to about 600 RPM and it's better, though.
It's kind of hard to describe what it does, but when you're going down the road and let off the accelerator and then get back on it there's a bit of a klunk noise in the rear of the carand then the you can sort feel something that feels like something just engaged or caught hold. That's about the best I can describe it. When going from reverse to forward it goes into gear smoothly, but park to reverse is kind of harsh. It goes into gear pretty hard. My idle was a little high and I brought that down to about 600 RPM and it's better, though.


