new project car?
I think he means two barrel carb..
just for reference, a duel is two people with weapons engaging in mortal combat to defend ones honor, where as dual means two, as in dual exhuast, dual four barrel carbs, dual tires... etc..
nomenclature, meaning the proper word for an item or part, is very important in the automotive world. Without the correct identifier, you often will not get the part you need..
That is my only reason for correcting anything remotely resembling spelling.. 
just for reference, a duel is two people with weapons engaging in mortal combat to defend ones honor, where as dual means two, as in dual exhuast, dual four barrel carbs, dual tires... etc..
nomenclature, meaning the proper word for an item or part, is very important in the automotive world. Without the correct identifier, you often will not get the part you need..
That is my only reason for correcting anything remotely resembling spelling.. 
I can look it up in the books tomorrow when I'm at my dad's (ohh yeah he has the old school good stuff) But I'm pretty sure the last year for any GOOD stock parts for most everything was 70-71. I think the Best of the Good was 69. But by 72 most parts were on the downhill slide. This is ususally most evident in carb size and the heads with lower compression and then came the Smog Pumps and all the JUNK.
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
I think he means two barrel carb..
just for reference, a duel is two people with weapons engaging in mortal combat to defend ones honor, where as dual means two, as in dual exhuast, dual four barrel carbs, dual tires... etc..
nomenclature, meaning the proper word for an item or part, is very important in the automotive world. Without the correct identifier, you often will not get the part you need..
That is my only reason for correcting anything remotely resembling spelling.. 
I think he means two barrel carb..
just for reference, a duel is two people with weapons engaging in mortal combat to defend ones honor, where as dual means two, as in dual exhuast, dual four barrel carbs, dual tires... etc..
nomenclature, meaning the proper word for an item or part, is very important in the automotive world. Without the correct identifier, you often will not get the part you need..
That is my only reason for correcting anything remotely resembling spelling.. 
-2 man points. Your geekness is scaring the kids.
Manlaw?
From what I have read, 1972 was the beginning of the emissions surge and the EPA came to bear. The mid 70's to late 80's were dark days for Ford performance cars sold to the general public. The early 90's saw the birth of the 4.6L and even though not as much HP as today's 4.6's, it was quite an improvement over the weak 302's of the mid 70's to late 80's. At any rate, that 302 that was built in '69 is a strong engine, and worthy of a rebuild. But, we all know that the engine is not a cost factor like rebuilding the body.
I dunno Glen, the 5.0 was the hot ticket from 83 to 93, the aftermarket support and ease of making them things run isnt really a dark time. Usually a gear swap, some headers, and an underdrive pulley set would put them deep in the 13s. Light car, light engine, decent power = fun ride.. even if they are kinda boxy and homely, they can be built into something stupid fast relatively easily. Untill the 93 F body with the LT1 arrived, the 5.0 was the way to go. Ford only caught up performance wise with the LS1 in 03-04 with the Cobra, and at a higher price and without the economy.. So you could say Ford owned the 80s.. now since GM doesnt have an F body, and Chrysler is just starting with the Challenger again, Ford has the lions share in the 00's as well.
ANYWAY....
The 302 isnt a pile of dung, while it is short on displacement compared to 351-460s, it is light and has a huge aftermarket behind it. But as for how much that car is worth, well it really depends on what it will take to make it a driver. A $20 car will result in something like the 71... but payin more doesnt mean you will get a better car. The idea is to have enough left over to actually do something with the car. You dont want to have yard art that you look at and get depressed over every time you see it because it still doesnt run.
ANYWAY....
The 302 isnt a pile of dung, while it is short on displacement compared to 351-460s, it is light and has a huge aftermarket behind it. But as for how much that car is worth, well it really depends on what it will take to make it a driver. A $20 car will result in something like the 71... but payin more doesnt mean you will get a better car. The idea is to have enough left over to actually do something with the car. You dont want to have yard art that you look at and get depressed over every time you see it because it still doesnt run.
Thanks for all your replies. We are having a wind and ice storm here right now so I haven't been able to get out to the junkyard for pictures and VIN yet. But I have a little more info. It's a desert car.There is no rust around or in the wheel wells.When I pulled up some of the carpet therewere some minor rust blooms. The car was ina minor fender bender, dented the fender (which was replaced) but it doesn't look like it damaged anything else and there is a small dent in the front bumper. The paint is original and is shot. The interior needs a new carpet, new headliner,a new door panel and could use new upolstrey. The dash pad is in decent shape (I could probably get another 10 years out of it). The engine compartment has some surface rust but it doesn't look like there's anything major.
Hopefully the storm will break soon and I'll be able to get to the junkyard.
Hopefully the storm will break soon and I'll be able to get to the junkyard.
The best advice I can give you is look around at several different cars. Check online and see what people are selling them for...if there are any in your area go take a look at them. The more you look at the more familiar you will be with the car and you will begin to notice things that are not there and should be and things that are there and should not be. Also, what amount people are asking for their car and what they will take are two entirely different things. The prices cars are listed at are generally inflated by 10% from what they will take for the car, at least in my area. Offer the owner 80% of what they are asking and barter from there.
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