Passenger Quarter Panel = Devastated
5th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,176
From: Insanity
RE: Passenger Quarter Panel = Devastated
I still don't see anything that needs to be replaced....smooth it out as much you can with metal work and then thin fill for finish prep. If you want to cut it out and weld in a new piece you'll prob use just as much filler over the new seam to get it the way you want.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 355
From:
RE: Passenger Quarter Panel = Devastated
when welding in the rear of the car like the quater panel should we drain the tank or take it out completely , i can allways smell gas even when my gas cap is on (only when i am in the trunk area)
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 339
From: Gardena, California
RE: Passenger Quarter Panel = Devastated
Hey Shifty. It looks like you have some bondo on the rear lip of the wheel opening as well. Is that the case? My entire lip is about an inch of bondo. Make sure you sand down all the paint before you buy a panel. I thought the same thing about just the patch until I kept sanding and found that there was bondo everywhere.
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/79DB9C3214054CD5A16AE9143B97605D.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/92AFEEADB4D94693AB3F4444A877EE6E.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/79DB9C3214054CD5A16AE9143B97605D.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/92AFEEADB4D94693AB3F4444A877EE6E.jpg[/IMG]
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
RE: Passenger Quarter Panel = Devastated
What you have there is a shoddy 70s to 80s collision shop quickie fix. Bondo was the new thing and they figured it would last forever, and that they could just sand it to shape rather than fixing the dent. Work the high spots into the low spots, that is dont just pound out the lowest part of the dent first, work around the edges and try to get the part that is pushed in out a little at a time. A high spot is where the wave of the dent protrudes above where the fender should be, a low spot is where its farther in than it should be. You will need to pull the interior panels and the rear window regulator to work that dent.
Also read up on metal shrinking with heat, because dents stretch the metal often you need to shrink it so it isnt a bubble once its pushed out. its called metal bumping, not metal bashing for a reason, the more you work it, the more you stretch it. Kinda like playdough being rolled flat, it gets bigger the thinner you make it, right?
If you have a decent mig, filling the holes in will give you the opportunity to do some shrinking and fix the stupid dent puller holes. Have the same issues on the Cougar and nobody makes replacement panels, so we just gotta fix what we have. Mustangs are quite nice in that repsect, you can get almost anything for them.
You want a skim of filler, not 1"-4" of filler like it had. At most a 1/4" if you absolutely need to fill something in. I use a 2"x3" board that is about 4' long to see how the doors and fenders/quarter panels line up. You want it to be the same level all the way across rather than a dip where the door meets the quarter. Behind the scoop you just need to get it as smooth as possible and close to the other side.
About the rust, look on the inside of the fender lip after you have pulled the panel and regulator. If its flaky and rusting up in there, you may as well replace the panel because it will come through in a matter of time. That will allow you to get in there, clean it up and prep it so it wonr rust again.
jut some ideas..
Also read up on metal shrinking with heat, because dents stretch the metal often you need to shrink it so it isnt a bubble once its pushed out. its called metal bumping, not metal bashing for a reason, the more you work it, the more you stretch it. Kinda like playdough being rolled flat, it gets bigger the thinner you make it, right?
If you have a decent mig, filling the holes in will give you the opportunity to do some shrinking and fix the stupid dent puller holes. Have the same issues on the Cougar and nobody makes replacement panels, so we just gotta fix what we have. Mustangs are quite nice in that repsect, you can get almost anything for them.
You want a skim of filler, not 1"-4" of filler like it had. At most a 1/4" if you absolutely need to fill something in. I use a 2"x3" board that is about 4' long to see how the doors and fenders/quarter panels line up. You want it to be the same level all the way across rather than a dip where the door meets the quarter. Behind the scoop you just need to get it as smooth as possible and close to the other side.
About the rust, look on the inside of the fender lip after you have pulled the panel and regulator. If its flaky and rusting up in there, you may as well replace the panel because it will come through in a matter of time. That will allow you to get in there, clean it up and prep it so it wonr rust again.
jut some ideas..
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,707
From: San Francisco
RE: Passenger Quarter Panel = Devastated
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
What you have there is a shoddy 70s to 80s collision shop quickie fix. Bondo was the new thing and they figured it would last forever, and that they could just sand it to shape rather than fixing the dent. Work the high spots into the low spots, that is dont just pound out the lowest part of the dent first, work around the edges and try to get the part that is pushed in out a little at a time. A high spot is where the wave of the dent protrudes above where the fender should be, a low spot is where its farther in than it should be. You will need to pull the interior panels and the rear window regulator to work that dent.
Also read up on metal shrinking with heat, because dents stretch the metal often you need to shrink it so it isnt a bubble once its pushed out. its called metal bumping, not metal bashing for a reason, the more you work it, the more you stretch it. Kinda like playdough being rolled flat, it gets bigger the thinner you make it, right?
If you have a decent mig, filling the holes in will give you the opportunity to do some shrinking and fix the stupid dent puller holes. Have the same issues on the Cougar and nobody makes replacement panels, so we just gotta fix what we have. Mustangs are quite nice in that repsect, you can get almost anything for them.
You want a skim of filler, not 1"-4" of filler like it had. At most a 1/4" if you absolutely need to fill something in. I use a 2"x3" board that is about 4' long to see how the doors and fenders/quarter panels line up. You want it to be the same level all the way across rather than a dip where the door meets the quarter. Behind the scoop you just need to get it as smooth as possible and close to the other side.
About the rust, look on the inside of the fender lip after you have pulled the panel and regulator. If its flaky and rusting up in there, you may as well replace the panel because it will come through in a matter of time. That will allow you to get in there, clean it up and prep it so it wonr rust again.
jut some ideas..
What you have there is a shoddy 70s to 80s collision shop quickie fix. Bondo was the new thing and they figured it would last forever, and that they could just sand it to shape rather than fixing the dent. Work the high spots into the low spots, that is dont just pound out the lowest part of the dent first, work around the edges and try to get the part that is pushed in out a little at a time. A high spot is where the wave of the dent protrudes above where the fender should be, a low spot is where its farther in than it should be. You will need to pull the interior panels and the rear window regulator to work that dent.
Also read up on metal shrinking with heat, because dents stretch the metal often you need to shrink it so it isnt a bubble once its pushed out. its called metal bumping, not metal bashing for a reason, the more you work it, the more you stretch it. Kinda like playdough being rolled flat, it gets bigger the thinner you make it, right?
If you have a decent mig, filling the holes in will give you the opportunity to do some shrinking and fix the stupid dent puller holes. Have the same issues on the Cougar and nobody makes replacement panels, so we just gotta fix what we have. Mustangs are quite nice in that repsect, you can get almost anything for them.
You want a skim of filler, not 1"-4" of filler like it had. At most a 1/4" if you absolutely need to fill something in. I use a 2"x3" board that is about 4' long to see how the doors and fenders/quarter panels line up. You want it to be the same level all the way across rather than a dip where the door meets the quarter. Behind the scoop you just need to get it as smooth as possible and close to the other side.
About the rust, look on the inside of the fender lip after you have pulled the panel and regulator. If its flaky and rusting up in there, you may as well replace the panel because it will come through in a matter of time. That will allow you to get in there, clean it up and prep it so it wonr rust again.
jut some ideas..
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,707
From: San Francisco
RE: Passenger Quarter Panel = Devastated
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
