Hi, thanks in advance for any insight offered. I am helping my friend rebuild/restore his 1970 coupe and i was wondering if anyone could give any hp and tq figures based on the following mods:
351w bored to 360
Custom shaved connecting rods w/ ARP bolts
Speedpro 10+:1 aluminum pistons
Comp cams .560 lift 306 duration
Edelbrock victor jr aluminum CNC matched heads and intake
1.6 ratio aluminum rocker arms
demon 720 carb
MSD Ignition. Any assistance will be greatly apreciated

 

heads?

and whats "shaved" rods?

 

i can't remember the specific name, but they're the second highest rated(500+hp) victor jr's available. and by "shaved", i mean we ground down the extra material left over by the castings(the excess metal left on the side of the beams.) i don't what thats really called

 

That is ALOT of cam, all the power will be at the top. Without at least a 3000 stall and deep gears, it might not even spin the tires. But on the top end it will make some power, streetability will be one of those how much can you put up with things.

Aluminum heads lose heat faster than Iron, so you can run more compression. A flat top piston (which is what most people call a 10:1 piston) wont always make 10:1, it depends on how far down the cylinder it is at TDC, what size the chamber is in the head, and how deep the valve reliefs are. Concieveably he could only have 8:1 depending on the head, and 10.5 is 91 octane territory with aluminum heads, but pings with iron heads, because of the heat loss. That cam needs high compression to work, if he has it too low, it will be a pig and it wont ever be fast. 10.5 with an aluminum head is borderline for a cam with 240-250 degrees duration at .050 lift. The .050 lift is what you need to look at, not the advertised.

Everything has to work together, and if one item is missing, then you have to make the others help out for it. Some power loss because of low compression can be overcome by airflow and cubic inches. He doesnt have much for cubes but he does for airflow, a long duration cam will not fill the cylinders well at low RPM so the airflow on the bottom end might hurt as well. There is alot to building a powerfull engine, more than picking the big stuff from the catalog, but he probably knows that already..

Best guess with the info provided is 300-350hp, maybe a bit more over 6500rpm. The bottom end wont last forever at that rpm though..

 

Try some dyno software...

 

It will run like crap on the street but would make a good oval track car with that cam.

 

Desktop Dyno 2000 works pretty well, does anyone know of newer (and better) software?

<~ dunno what my .050 duration is but advertised the duration is 300/300 and .500/.500 lift. (cam was bought in the late 70's and wasnt used until i built the motor a few years ago, along with the trw .440 dome pistons and 90% of the head work). old school power is sexy

 

Way to much cam unless its race only. All pistons are aluminum, Forged or cast? Weight?

360 is 30 or 60 over,
Need triple valve springs and harden retainers.
Shaved rods?
Find someone that can build a reliable engine and talk with him.
Sounds like your trying to make a lot of horsepower and still keep some stock type parts, Never work, Find a HP you want to achieve and build to that, or you end up with mismatched parts.
The cheapest way and most reliable way to make HP is build a strong rotating assembly, Low compression forged pistons 8 or 9 to 1, and a 150 shot of Nitrous with an auxiliary fuel tank with 93+ octane in it. Slightly bigger than stock cam and 4 barrel carb , and headers. Should be around 325 HP and reliable and use 87 octane. Until you push "The Button"

 

...........but bottles are for babies

 

I like Cubes but big cubes in a Ford is big money and heavy front ends.. Still fun tho.