Hello, I am in the process of beginning a 289 build for my 66. I stumbled across an add on Craigslist for a 289 block out of a 67, with 55,000 orginial miles. She says that there was a rebuild done, and the compression is great. Anyway, I guess that it is in great shape with only minor surface rusting. It is listed for 175, I guess my question is why is it so cheap? I am pretty new to classics but I figured something that runs and with that low of mileage would go for a lot more. What do you guys think? I apologize if it these are dumb questions. Thanks so much in advanced and have a nice day.

 

well first of all...short block or long block? also 55k original miles? and it needed a rebuild? $175? someone is hiding something or just isnt telling u everything

 

I hate to sound like a jackass but I don't know if it is the short or long block. I am sorry, I am really trying to learn all I can. How can I tell? Sorry again, and thanks.

 

easy tell, dont worry everyone had to learn, everyone is still learning. short block is just the block of the engine itself. long block is with all the internals (pistons, heads, rods, cam, crank etc)

 

From my understanding, the short block is the block, crank, rods, and pistons. A long block is the short block but includes the heads and cam.

 

ive always heard different things. ive heard that too but a lot of ppl i talk to just said its just the block itself....either way...if u get a short block, it doesnt have heads

 

short block is everything that should be in the block (crank, rods, pistons, cam, lifters, timing chain, and oil pump)

long block is everything listed above PLUS the heads (including pushrods and rocker arms)

also, neither normally come with oil pan, timing cover, or valve covers.

sounds to me like the listing is saying 55k since the rebuild. i dunno what the light rusting is about, if its a long block and theres rust on the outside of the motor that means nothing - its fine (as far as the rust is concerned anyways) but if its just a short block and theirs rust in the cylinders thats another story cause now your talking rebuild instead of just dropping the motor in and running with it (if that was the plan)

 

a block for 175$ id pass id pick up a late model 5.0ho and get a swap flywheel/balancer etc and go unless u really want to go for a 289 but unless ur a concours resto theres no reason to get one(the 289/302 blocks are identical)

 

if numbers matching doesnt matter rmodel is correct, actually a 302 block is better (even an earlier non-roller block) because the cylinder walls are a little longer which provides better stability for the piston skirts

 

Thanks so much for the information I appreciate it so much. It comes with heads and all internals plus a carb so I guess it is a long block then. I am not really too concerned about numbers matching so I will keep the 302 in mind. I am not really sure exactly what I want to do though. I might just finish her, and get it all mint and just sell her. Then I would be able to pick up a V8 and that way I dont have to go 5lug and change the rear end and axles and all that. I might be too attached though, I dont know. Thanks again for everying.