Take the MC off and bench bleed it. You will be there until the cows come home trying to get all the air out.

 

Yep...they're original drums. And I actually had thought about doing exactly what you suggest by replacing the wheel cylinder BUT I wanted to see what I was up against either way and the shop manual I got from FordManuals.com doesn't show a blow up of the hub anywhere as far as I could tell. Not one picture that shows the bleeder valve. Of course, I could be looking in the wrong place but, you know, I looked in the BRAKES section!

 

Yep drums and like my other response said, I was thinking of changing out the wheel cylinder.

4reboy, sorry for highjacking your thread.

 

Well a new cylinder is $15 at Napa.. Shouldnt be much more at any other parts store. Is it worth the agrivation for $15 when you probably need a new one anyway?

 

It should be a fairly easy project to change the wheel cylinder. Once you get the drum off take some detailed photos so that you can get all the springs and gizmos back to where they should be.

You will have the other side for reference if things dont go as planned. This is usually what I do when I am unsure of the brake setup when I do drum brakes, just have to remember that the other side is a "mirror image", meaning that front is front, and back is back.

Worst case is that you may find some broken springs or parts which you should be able to replace with an off the shelf brake kit (NAPA had kits in stock for my son's mustang). Also, if the wheel cylinder nut is rusted frozen, it should just break off with enough force.

 

Nope. Not at all. But I'd like to see what all I'd have to do to change it out first. Without a diagram and without ever doing it before AND without being able to tell exactly what I'd be changing out while I'm underneath the car, I'm just a little hesitant to buy the part and not at least have a clue how I'm going to do it!

 

Because it is a front wheel, it is a little more complicated because you have to re-set the bearing (as opposed to just pulling the rear drum off). Aside from that, all you have to do is disconnect the brake adjusting hardware and springs (leave the shoes in place), unscrew the brake hose, remove the two cylinder retaining bolts on the inward side of the backing plate and the cylinder will fall out. Pull out the little shoe guide thingies (technical term ) out of the old cylinder, stuff them into the new one if it doesn't come with it and re-install everything. I don't remember the torque procedure on the retainer nut for the bearings (hence the manual), but after that, you're done.

Brakes can be a bit intimidating because it is the only thing keeping you from hitting a brick wall, but the system is quite simple if you take your time, only disassemble one side at a time and have a helper to bleed them when you're through.

Good luck! I'll see what is in the factory service manual for the '65 as they are similar if not identical.

 

Try thes links;;;;

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...de.jsp#hd1-1-1

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801c41de.jsp

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801c423d.jsp

These are some really good "how to's"

 

JMD, that is freakin' fantastic! Thank you. EXACTLY what I was looking for.

 

Out of 67 shop manual:
"rotate wheel and drum while torquing the wheel bearing and adjusting nut to 17-25 ft-lbs torque. Back off the adjusting nut 1/2 turn and retighten to 10-15 inch pounds while rotating the drum and wheel.Position nut retainer on adjusting nut so that a set of slots are in line wiht cotter pin hole. Adjusting nut should not be rotated in this operation. Lock the adjusting nut and retainer with cotter pin so that cotter pin end does not interfere with seating of wheel static collctore in spindle hole."

for brake cylinders:
torque for 9" brake cylinder to backing plate 5-7 10" brake cylinder to backing plate 10-20
Be careful..I over torqued one of mine thinking it wasn't quite tight enough...and broke it off...too much thinking and not enough following the manual specs...