Exhaust Manifold bolts
"Should I put a gasket sealer on the both sides of the gasket too? Thanks. "
No sealer on exhaust manifold gaskets. In fact, no gaskets from the factory, but you can use them. I have an original '67 (289) and there wer no gaskets when I removed the manifolds.
And, Ramplocks are what you need, depending on your year. 65 and 66 are a little different and have a retainer. 67 starts ramplocks.
Good luck.[align=right]
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No sealer on exhaust manifold gaskets. In fact, no gaskets from the factory, but you can use them. I have an original '67 (289) and there wer no gaskets when I removed the manifolds.
And, Ramplocks are what you need, depending on your year. 65 and 66 are a little different and have a retainer. 67 starts ramplocks.
Good luck.[align=right]
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ya you pretty much HAVE to use gaskets unless you have new manifolds and you know they are perfectly flat. they like to warp after some time. worth mentioning i guess, that while i dont use permatex on the exhaust i have noticed almost every local race track motor that came into our shop for machine work had red silicon on the exhaust and they used the paper gaskets. what this means if anything i dunno but there must be a reason for them doing it?!?!
I got 4 of the 16 bolts off this evening. The remaining 12 wouldn't budge [:@](I didn't try to hard after the warnings of snapping them) so I turned the car on and let the manifolds get nice and hot and then hit them again with PB Blaster. I will try again tomorrow. If no luck, spray'em down again.
ya slowly but surely. never heated my bolts actually, just sprayed em a crap load, let em sit then went at it. lot of em wouldnt budge but some i forced (probably shouldnt of) but it worked
OK, I have 5 bolts remaing on the EM 's then it's time to figure out how to get the bolts connecting the manifolds to the intermediate pipes off. That is a very tight fit, (Obviously I will leave a couple bolts loose in the manifolds so they aren't hanging on by the exaust.
I FINALLY got ALL the bolts out of the exhaust manifolds and also where it connects to the intermediate pipes. It wasa happy moment for me when that lastbolt came out. I endedup using mapgason the last few suckers. Thank goodness nobody was around to see me dancing around the garage in delight. [sm=roll.gif]Anyways, time to get those holes tapped, manifolds sanded down, painted and slapped back in. THANK YOU everyone for your advice on how to get those things off with out doing serious damage. [sm=hail.gif]
When you run the tap down the holes, be very careful about two things in particular:
(1) Thread the tapdown the hole a half turn or so at a time and then back it off enough to break any chips that have formed. This greatly reduces the chances of breaking the tap.
(2) Make sure that you're only turning the tap handle to screw the tap into the hole. If you put a sideways force on the tap handle, that tries to bend the tap, which will break instead (especially in the little sizes).
(3) Eventually the end of the tap will get to the bottom of the hole. Do not try to force it past this point. Check for sufficient thread depth using a manifold bolt instead. Once in a while, you may need to use a "bottom tap" to get full-form threads closer to the bottom of the hole. This is a rather special tapthat requires even greater carein its use.
And afew miscellaneous tips:
(4) Use a little oil to prolong tap life.
(5) Clean the tap after chasing each hole. Clean it more frequently if the chip reliefs in the tap fill up before finishing a hole
(6) Blow all the rust and debris out of the hole before running the bolt down into it, even for thread depth checking. It won't all stick to the tap, even if you've used oil.
A variety of Craftsman tap & die sets are available.
Norm
(1) Thread the tapdown the hole a half turn or so at a time and then back it off enough to break any chips that have formed. This greatly reduces the chances of breaking the tap.
(2) Make sure that you're only turning the tap handle to screw the tap into the hole. If you put a sideways force on the tap handle, that tries to bend the tap, which will break instead (especially in the little sizes).
(3) Eventually the end of the tap will get to the bottom of the hole. Do not try to force it past this point. Check for sufficient thread depth using a manifold bolt instead. Once in a while, you may need to use a "bottom tap" to get full-form threads closer to the bottom of the hole. This is a rather special tapthat requires even greater carein its use.
And afew miscellaneous tips:
(4) Use a little oil to prolong tap life.
(5) Clean the tap after chasing each hole. Clean it more frequently if the chip reliefs in the tap fill up before finishing a hole
(6) Blow all the rust and debris out of the hole before running the bolt down into it, even for thread depth checking. It won't all stick to the tap, even if you've used oil.
A variety of Craftsman tap & die sets are available.
Norm


