ok....im also ready to remove and install new rear shocks and springs.....

Does anyone have any recommendations on the easiest way to remove them....I don't want to kill myself when I screw it up without asking first.....and if i do after you all helped me... then I can just blame you all, lol. But then you'll just say I read the instructions wrong.....so I guess im in a hole ethier way, lol

 

Put your floor jack under the differential and jack it up as high as you can. Put two floor jacks under the frame rail near the rear. Jack up the front of the car by the crossmember under the engine and put two floor jacks on the frame rails near the front. Remove the shocks.
Put the floor jack back under the pumpkin. Take the wheels off. Take the spring loose from the axle first, then the shackle, then take out the *&^%^%%^&^&* front bolt. If it is rusted to the sleeve, use a sawz all (reciprocal saw). Put your new springs on, then put the new shocks on. You will learn a minimum of 8 new four letter words if that front bolt is frozen.

 

nice......lol

thanks

 

thanks for the help...drivers side is on and im finishing up the passenger side, worked like a champ

 

Yeah, my driver's side went on without a htich, but that damn front bolt on the passenger side was rusted shut.

 

After seeing all the posts about how hard it is to get the bolts out, and having tried it myself way back in 1986, in the cold, in my dorm parking lot, on my 69 FB (alas, she is the one that got away), I feel I must suggest that this is one pain in the a** job where it makes sense to have a spring shop install for you. I think it costs me $75 way back when. How much could it be now. Even if it is double, to me it is worth it.

I am all for doing things myself, (welding frame rails, front suspension etc.) just some things aren't worth the hassle v. the cost of having someone do it (obviously not including the value of the vocabulary lesson Glen mentions). I guess the cost is relevant though.

I guess my point is, ITS A PAIN IN THE A**.

 

the passenger's front was frozen.....used the sawz to take it off....

But other that...it went good.....she's all done....

now it's time for a beer

 

I was on my spring break last week and i removed my laef springs and front bolt on both sides were rusted shut. I think that my vocabulary got a lot bigger because of the front bolt.lol. personaly i would not recomend it to anyone, but after it was all said and done i am glad that i changed them. now the rear end sits up about one inch higher with a tranny in the trunk.

 

i just pulled my rear end in my 66 to rebuild it and put in a trac-loc. I've done this some many times, I had the entire rear end out about two hrs, capping brake lines and removing emerg brake lines, etc.

access tofour jack stands is best.harbor freight has great stands, 3ton, for $32. I constantly use all four of mine.

Jack up the back end and place thestands under the front of the rear sub-frames, just in front of theleaf eye. With the floor jackunder the center section, drop the car on the stands, and lower the rear till it's completely released, then jack the rear up just afew inches to release the load on the springs shackles. You should be able to easily unbolt the shackle bolts at this point and drop the rear leafs. If you want to keep the rear end in place, put two addition jack stands under the axles and unbolt the U bolts. Suggest soaking all bolt with liquid wrench BEFORE starting your work. Sure the front bolt may require some persuasion, but shouldn't be that bad.

As for the shocks, when you unbolt the U bolt, the shock plate can be pulled down and out of the way. go through the trunk, under the trunk mat, youll find the access holes for the shock bolts.

Pay attention to the brake T and the vent tube so you dont break or bend it them.

 

I just completed my whole suspension upgrade, I did the Laurel Mt Kit which was great, I dropped her down an inch and I really like the way she sits now, I can't see going over an inch.

I had to cut both my rear springs, it sucked, I recommend you get plenty of blades. I used the fire and rescue blades but they wore out just as fast. Once you get those out the job is cake.


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